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Calan Catch Cans

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The line to the intake (pre-turbo) apply's vacuum to the CC, which apply's vacuum to the crankcase. :)

:dsm:

Yeah sure, but there's no fresh air source pulling fresh air on the other end, so instead of flowing fresh air in there, you're just sucking on a somewhat vacuum sealed box. Not going to get too much circulation that way.

I'm asking just because I want to know why this seems to be the case with so many catch can systems out there despite it contradicting the design of a pcv system. Really not trying to knock it, just curious if you folks are ignoring that design, or there's something I don't see.
 
Looks great Keri! Just an FYI as I'm not sure I mentioned this in our PM, that side port on the VC can be tapped same as the PCV to run a bigger I.D. fitting.

:dsm:

Thanks for the tip Corey, it's much appreciated. :)

Keri, any issues with hood clearance when you were installing it?

No issues Romeen. Of course the battery is relocated to the trunk and the cruise control is deleted so that helps too.
 
Got to be a guinea pig and test out one of Craig's new catch can designs! :sneaky:

Thanks for the update Keri. Please let us (at least me) know how it works!

Wow I'm actually a bit insulted you would link that. It only confirms what I suspected which is this does not maintain the PVC system and instead compromises it.

As long as the can is placed into the "existing" line between the VC and turbo, it isn't doing anything to change the factory system, except to filter the air being pulled from the crankcase.

On a stock setup, fresh air is pulled from the turbo inlet into the crankcase when the PCV valve is metering air via the IM. Since the can does not block airflow in either direction, fresh air can still be drawn in via that route...so I'm not sure how this would compromise anything.
 
As long as the can is placed into the "existing" line between the VC and turbo, it isn't doing anything to change the factory system, except to filter the air being pulled from the crankcase.

On a stock setup, fresh air is pulled from the turbo inlet into the crankcase when the PCV valve is metering air via the IM. Since the can does not block airflow in either direction, fresh air can still be drawn in via that route...so I'm not sure how this would compromise anything.

My comments have all been entirely in response to vtec_this' setup. I'm very well aware of how to maintain the PVC system and use a catch can. I realize I didn't specify that, which is my mistake.
 
I'm very well aware of how to maintain the PVC system and use a catch can.

Well I wasn't sure, since you keep saying "PVC". :p

Keri's setup still works fine to relieve CC pressure while under boost; they just deleted the PCV valve side of it, which eliminates fresh air ventilation during off-boost driving. That may or may not be a problem, depending on how often they change their oil or if they see any small CC pressure spikes during transition between boost and non-boost driving.

BTW - PCV valve deletion is discussed at the end of the article in the link that Brian insulted you with. :)
 
Oh wow that was my iPad stupidly auto correcting!! Pcv pcv pcv

Only the speculation is discussed which isn't anywhere close to an engineering-based answer. Anyway you're just confirming that this is still a deviation from the system and a compromise. That's what I asked so thanks.

Moving on...
 
I could have swore there was a reason why Calan placed the outlet that goes to the intake on the side of the catch can rather than the top. VTECH_THIS has the newer design which has the outlet on the top whereas gofer seems to have it on the side. Is there a reason behind this Calan?
 
I could have swore there was a reason why Calan placed the outlet that goes to the intake on the side of the catch can rather than the top. VTECH_THIS has the newer design which has the outlet on the top whereas gofer seems to have it on the side. Is there a reason behind this Calan?

The reason the outlet has always been on the side (above the fluid level) is because with cans like the one in Gofer's pic, the two inlets on top have filters on them and the port on the side is a baffled outlet.

Keri's can is a new two-chamber design that uses a filter "box" with coarse media on the two inlets, and a single coalescing filter on the outlet.
 
The reason the outlet has always been on the side (above the fluid level) is because with cans like the one in Gofer's pic, the two inlets on top have filters on them and the port on the side is a baffled outlet.

Is this the new standard for fittings setup (and used fluid level), or will you offer variations on the design?

Keri's can is a new two-chamber design that uses a filter "box" with coarse media on the two inlets, and a single coalescing filter on the outlet.

Is this just to prevent (the before used inlet-) filters from clogging up? Or is this also more effective in filtering the air?

Nice to see that you are still improving on an already great design Craig! :rocks:
(Makes me want to start my project back up again so I can order and place these on my car aswell! :thumb: )
 
Is this the new standard for fittings setup (and used fluid level), or will you offer variations on the design?

The original inlet/outlet design is still going strong; I'm just adding more variation and more refined filtering for different applications.

Is this just to prevent (the before used inlet-) filters from clogging up? Or is this also more effective in filtering the air?

Late last year, I started really pushing my car with ethanol in cold weather, and was getting a LOT of blowby and buildup in the lines and can. Even though the catch can still did it's job, it gave me some ideas on how to improve the design for situations where there was a lot of liquid coming from the VC, or where ethanol in cold climates is used (which tends to create an unbelievable amount of nasty crud in the lines and can).

So I spent a few months testing some ideas and doing some design work, and came up with a new style of can that I was happy with. One thing lead to another, and I ended up making a few improvements across the board. They aren't officially available yet (but may be this weekend!), but I am building a few for people that have volunteered to test them, and I have been running one on my own car for a couple of weeks.

I can't say much more than that here; PM me for more info or check out the freelancer section in the classifieds.

Nice to see that you are still improving on an already great design Craig! :rocks:
(Makes me want to start my project back up again so I can order and place these on my car aswell! :thumb: )

Thanks!
 
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here is my not fully installed but i just got my valve cover, intake and fuel rail back from powder coating so i just throw everything on for a quick sot.



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craig this cans are top of the line thank you.
 

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I plan on hooking my newly designed can up tomorrow. I'll take some pictures and keep you all posted as to how it works. I have no doubt it will perform just as advertised.
 
My can cleared up all the smoke my car would bilow out after a hard pull. I mean a LOT. Love it.

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here is my not fully installed but i just got my valve cover, intake and fuel rail back from powder coating so i just throw everything on for a quick sot.



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craig this cans are top of the line thank you.

I really want to weld AN fittings on my valve cover like this on my 2g. Do you have any hood clearance issues?
 
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Can use this in place of the PCV valve?

That is a bit OT, but...

The PCV valve is not just a check valve; it's also a metering orifice and has a "snorkel" to prevent liquid oil from being sucked into the IM...so that ^ would not be a direct replacement if it is a simple check valve. (A link to some information about it would be helpful).

If you are wanting to just run a check valve, it would probably work, depending on the crack pressure. You would be much better off just running an OEM PCV valve and a US plastics check valve though.
 
That is a bit OT, but...

The PCV valve is not just a check valve; it's also a metering orifice and has a "snorkel" to prevent liquid oil from being sucked into the IM...so that ^ would not be a direct replacement if it is a simple check valve. (A link to some information about it would be helpful).

If you are wanting to just run a check valve, it would probably work, depending on the crack pressure. You would be much better off just running an OEM PCV valve and a US plastics check valve though.

http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/accessories-electronics/15106-one-way-check-valve-orb-06/

Also forgot to mention want to use this valve with the 2 catch can set up. Tell me what you think now Calan now that you have a link to more info.
Thanks was not 100% sure if PCV valve was a simple one way valve.
 
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That is a bit OT, but...

The PCV valve is not just a check valve; it's also a metering orifice and has a "snorkel" to prevent liquid oil from being sucked into the IM...so that ^ would not be a direct replacement if it is a simple check valve. (A link to some information about it would be helpful).

If you are wanting to just run a check valve, it would probably work, depending on the crack pressure. You would be much better off just running an OEM PCV valve and a US plastics check valve though.
Here is more info on the Aeromotive CV, Craig. I believe Nate is running one of these on his fuel supply line to fix his pressure drop in the fuel system after the car had been shut-off.

:dsm:
 
None everything clears good no problems , just get the fittings low enough do you can screw in the swivel ends and your golden I still have about 1 finger Clarence like this

So did you happen to cut off all the threads in order to weld in the fittings? I know some people cut off the excess thread then weld on the fittings. Do you have a link to the fittings you used? I wanted mine done just like yours but thought I'd come across hood clearance issues. I don't plan to use swivel ends though; just straight ones. I can't tell how high yours sit. I don't want mine to sit so low where I can't even screw in my fittings.
 
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