2G Bleeding coolant?

[slam816]

ok so just changed turbo on 2g.
had that rad out and system completely drained.
filled it back up till it came to the top. put on rad cap. went into car turned on heater and started car.
let car get up to operating temp but still no heat also car wont "kick down" from higher cold idle 2000-1500rpms.
did i do wrong?
i did it exact same on my 1g no to long ago and there was no problems.

 

[EC17PSE]

You put the rad cap on and thats your issue! Where is the excess air going to go? Open the cap and run the engine with as much fluid you can get in then put some in the over flow tank aswell then as it warms up and opens the thermostat will pull fluid through and then you top up in where the rad cap was, only once you have all the system bleed of air do you put the rad cap back on.

This is how the manual says to do it and this is how i did it and it was fine

 

[mattasi]

What he said ^^

After pouring the coolant/water mix into the radiator start the car. Let it run for ten minutes with no rad cap on, and you will be able to watch the coolant level go down a bit with air bubbles popping out. Just keep adding fluid untill you can't add any more, then put the rad cap back on, let it run a few more minutes. Then shut it down, let it cool, and check the level. Be sure to half fill the coolant overflow.

 

[slam816]

i tried it that way too cap off and the coolant just keeps getting pushed out..
then wen i turn it off after like 10 mins of waiting its way low again.

 

[EC17PSE]

i tried it that way too cap off and the coolant just keeps getting pushed out..
then wen i turn it off after like 10 mins of waiting its way low again.

Well in that case my friend your thermostat might have gone on you, buy a new one and try it with that, you might even have an air lock behind it as ive seen happen before, so open it up and replace it then do it the way i said before,

 

[slam816]

thermostat open properly i can watch it open with the cap off.
im logging constantly 203 deg F ish

 

[EC17PSE]

Hmmm the only other thing is you already trapped air in the system then, as we dont have a lower bleed valve its annoying to get out and to he honest quite a stupid design with our systems, only thing i can surgest is remove the stat and then put it back in case it is trapped down there, this has only happed to me once! Wasted a few liters of coolant but needed to do it.

I hope it works ok as i know how annoying it can be,

 

[Bud92gsx]

Burping the coolant system.

I myself use my larger frame to move the front end of the car up and down.Add more coolant mix, and repeat.Also for good measure I manipulate the upper coolant pipe a few times as well.By manipulate I mean squeeze,burp, and then repeat again.

 

[DSM1G90]

I drill a .050 hole in the T-stat flange to aid in the burping.
Definitely gets rid of the air lock in the coolant system.

Also with this, I don't have to leave the cap off and no wasted coolant.

No heat: heater core plugged esp if you feel the two heater hoses that goes into the firewall, and one gets hot and the other not so hot. What about the two radiator hoses, they should be hot, or at least the upper hose - hot to the touch and hardened up with coolant pressure.

If no pressure, the coolant level super low.

 

[gusu]

You can buy a kit that comes with a funnel and special radiator cap type attachments for your car and then you fill it with coolant and turn on the car, turn the temp dial to heat but don't turn the heat on, let the car run til the t-stat opens and let it run til the bubbles stop.

I really prefer thst method than trying to milk the donkey Dick radiator hose.

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

I squeeze the upper and lower hoses til I get all the air burped out, I do a bunch of quick pumps to each one, .

 

[slam816]

ya i spent like 3 hours trying to burp it ect
had hoses off throttle body.
hoses to heater core r hot but still no heat and idle wont kick down..
temp gauge and link read operating temp tho..
im gonna dump everything and start over.
hopefully werk

 

[bryanwheat]

ya i spent like 3 hours trying to burp it ect
had hoses off throttle body.
hoses to heater core r hot but still no heat and idle wont kick down..
temp gauge and link read operating temp tho..
im gonna dump everything and start over.
hopefully werk

If the heater hoses are warm than obiously there is water flowing thru them. I would look into the blend door inside the heater box. There is no reason to drain it and try again.

 

[slam816]

how do i look up inside there?

would idle problem be caused by this?

also which way is the coolant supposed to flow?
this one flows from the thermostat to the rad.
someone in a post at the top said that when the thermostat opens it will "pull" in the coolant.

 

[slam816]

Which sensors control the cold idle enrichment?
tps and idle switch are operating fine.

 

[slam816]

OK no hot air was the blend door.
Weird thing is the coolant system still isn't building pressure.
Rad hoses aren't stiff at operating temp.
I am quite confused! HELP

 

[bryanwheat]

OK no hot air was the blend door.
Weird thing is the coolant system still isn't building pressure.
Rad hoses aren't stiff at operating temp.
I am quite confused! HELP

Replace the radiator cap.

 

[slam816]

ya was that cap