Brake Bleeding?????

[jdigitty]

Okay I need some advice/help. I installed brembo front brakes on my 1g then I deleted my abs while i was there. Now i go to bleed them according to Haynes and nothing the pedal still goes to the floor. Also the front have speed bleeders and the back i did with the stock bleeders. I am at a loss I've been through 3 32oz brake fluid cans and nothing.

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

Are you getting any leaks other than what is coming out of the bleeders. And are you sure a bleeder is not left "open" while you are doing this? Where is all of the fluid going? The pedal will continue to fall to the flood if the fluid is able to leak out.

It will also keep falling to the floor untill you get a few lines bled. Start at the rear passenger side, bleed it until no air comes out, tighten the screw, and move to the next. Then continue to do this untill all 4 are done. Then you should feel some back pressure on the pedal.

 

[92DSM89]

you must not be bleeding them properly. this is from the stop tech website and is the way i do it.
Bleeding Process

1. Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.

2. Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw – and don't lose it!

3. Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw. An offset wrench works best – since it allows the most room for movement.

4. Place one end of the clear plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw.

5. Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle.

6. Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum assembly. Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand.

7. Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times, hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release the brakes until told to do so.

8. Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief ¼ turn to release fluid into the waste line. The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until instructed to do so.)

9. Close the bleeder screw by tightening it gently. Note that one does not need to pull on the wrench with ridiculous force. Usually just a quick tug will do.

10. Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open, as this will suck air back into the system!

11. The assistant should respond with "released."

12. Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles.

13. Continue the bleeding process (steps 11 through 16) until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel! Add fluid as necessary to keep the level at the MAX marking. (Typically, one repeats this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a ‘standard' bleed.)

14. Move systematically toward the driver – right rear, left rear, right front, left front - repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake fluid reservoir! Keep it full!

15. When all four corners have been bled, spray the bleeder screw (and any other parts that were moistened with spilled or dripped brake fluid) with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag. (Leaving the area clean and dry will make it easier to spot leaks through visual inspection later!) Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner can make these parts brittle after repeated exposure.

16. Test the brake pedal for a firm feel. (Bleeding the brakes will not necessarily cure a "soft" or "mushy" pedal – since pad taper and compliance elsewhere within the system can contribute to a soft pedal. But the pedal should not be any worse than it was prior to the bleeding procedure!)

17. Be sure to inspect the bleeder screws and other fittings for signs of leakage. Correct as necessary.

18. Properly dispose of the used waste fluid as you would dispose of used motor oil. Important: used brake fluid should NEVER be poured back into the master cylinder reservoir!

 

[Bud92gsx]

Are you bleeding alone or do you have a buddy helping you? If your bleeding alone, I always just crack the bleeder and let a bit of fluid come out, and then tighten..I think your supposed to do the rears first..I would suggest to let alot of fluid out, just in case there is sum rust in the lines, but since you have went through so much fluid already..I think there should be no rust left in the lines..Then you just basically pump the braked till the pedal is hard again..Its very easy to bleed brakes..

Nice write up 92dsm..

 

[jdigitty]

It is coming out the bleeders but when i close everything and get in the car i push the pedal it goes to the floor. After a couple times I get some pressure. Then after 30sec-1min later same thing happens it goes to the floor. So i blended it again and once again same thing. No leaks

 

[chuckstsi]

That much brake fluid? Somewhere it has to be leaking. If not, dump the speed bleeders and get a pressure bleeder.

 

[Bud92gsx]

So no leaks now..Then you should be able to just pump the brake and get a stiff pedal...

 

[jdigitty]

Tried again and nothing. Should the car be on and no leaks.

 

[Bud92gsx]

The car doesn't have to be on to bleed brakes..But you can try it and see if it helps..Otherwise you might have something wrong if the pedal won't get stiff..

 

[jdigitty]

Thanks I'm going to try again tomorrow. I'm done for today. How do morning things turn into all day .

 

[Bud92gsx]

I think its just a dsm thing..

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

I used the speed bleeders as well. They worked great for me. It is either leaking from somewhere or your master is shot and the fluid is getting past the pistons.

 

[andrewschel]

do you have the rubber grommet on the cap to the reservoir on? either way you should still get a pedal. sounds like your master cylinder is bad. try bleeding the master cylinder.

 

[gsxeclipsed]

My guess is the master. I had a similar problem and the master was the problem replaced that and boom! bled the brakes again and they pumped right up.

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

No, the cap can be off of the reservoir.

 

[jdigitty]

OK well I went to autozone and got the brake bleeder. The one with vacuum hand pump. Bled them again and this time i got a stiff pedal till I turned the car on. Then I pumped it a few time and it got stiff. So I was like ok good and went to pull out the drive way pedal sank about 3/4 the way to the floor. I drove it around the block and it does that but it does stop after the pedal is past that point of 3/4 of the way down.

I'm lost all I did was replace the rubber lines with ss installed the Brembos and one of the rear calipers. It was working fine before that.

p.s I do have the rubber thing on the cap and i noticed that the cap has two small cracks in it. They are at the bottom it still seals and is semi hard to take off after i pump them and hear the seal breaking.

Anyone?

 

[jdigitty]

Update. Today I found out threes another bleeder on the other side of the caliper. I know. Now i have a stiff pedal. Until i turn the car on then it sinks any ideas? Anyone?

 

[EGLTAWLN]

at any time did during the brake install did your brake fluid resevoir go dry?
try reading up on "bench bleeding".
it was the only way i got a stiff pedal after my brake upgrade.
works pretty darn good.

 

[jdigitty]

Thanks everyone. I ended up getting a bigger master cylinder from a 2000 eclipse.