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1G Best source for replacement knock sensor?

Posted by benspilk09, Sep 16, 2019

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  1. benspilk09

    benspilk09 Proven Member

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    I've already contacted them and they're on backorder, no word if any more will even be made. It seems this sensor ONLY came on early turbo mitsubishis, so they're probably not in high demand.
     

    Street Build 389  4

    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
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  2. Topcarparts

    Topcarparts Probationary Member

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    Manila, Asia
    Any updates on this.. badly needed this also..
    Somebody test the so called mazda miata knock sensors?
     

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  3. wrencher

    wrencher Proven Member

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    NGK has finally said that they may fill order before the end of the year.
    So cross your fingers for a non ebay version.
     
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  4. 1990TSIAWDTALON

    1990TSIAWDTALON Moderator

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    That is GREAT news. Hope it pans out. I wish I could get my Standard Motors to put them back into production also.
     

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  5. jed344

    jed344 Supporting VIP

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    When where they discontinued? We replaced a buddies 1g knock sensor 2 years ago and extremepsi had them but I see they don't now. My buddy also got the last one extremepsi had for 2g sensors I think as after his order it went discontinued LOL.
     

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  6. Topcarparts

    Topcarparts Probationary Member

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    Manila, Asia
    who wants 1g genuine MD141510 knock sensor? for about 180usd shipping not included... item from phillipines overseas
     

    Street Build 215  2

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  7. Joshua Tadich

    Joshua Tadich Proven Member

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    I pulled 2 1G knock sensors off at the local you pull it junkyard today. Both look like they're in good shape.
     

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  8. 1990TSIAWDTALON

    1990TSIAWDTALON Moderator

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    Pictures????
     

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  9. mooserage

    mooserage Probationary Member

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    Got my hands on both (DSM & Miata) knock sensors and will be testing this once the car is back together. Will share the results when it happens, but may be a month or two...
     
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  10. schemauer

    schemauer Proven Member

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    Searching for a good 1g solution as well. Thanks for all the work on this..
     

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  11. beegeezy

    beegeezy Probationary Member

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    Last edited: Feb 29, 2020

    Street Build 270  1

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  12. 1cleangsx

    1cleangsx Proven Member

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    I bought a generic one at Napa years ago that’s still good, I’m sure it’s a generic but I’ve had no issues with it
     

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  13. beegeezy

    beegeezy Probationary Member

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    I first called my local Autozone and NAPA, neither had them available. The parts store availability seems to be drying up too.
     

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  14. 1cleangsx

    1cleangsx Proven Member

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    Man that’s a bummer :notgood:
     

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  15. curt-s

    curt-s Proven Member

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    These are just questions because I am definitely interested in alternates but they have to be asked because others may trust their motors on the results:

    How do you expect to test? Do you have a method in mind that recreates on demand a dependable condition which you can compare their behavior in action (ie. engine running and under load conditions) or are you intending on doing signal analysis of the (likely) piezoelectric elements to compare frequency response in controlled bench tests?
     

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  16. 1990TSIAWDTALON

    1990TSIAWDTALON Moderator

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  17. schemauer

    schemauer Proven Member

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    That's a good option - if it works... I've had two aftermarket sensors now that did not work out of the box. Don't believe they were NTK though..
     

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  18. Jan

    Jan Probationary Member

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    I followed the "mazda lead" and found some other sensors (for 626 and Premacy I think)
    E1T50371
    E1T14772
    FSD7
    FP39-18-921
    E1T14874 (looks like this one was done by Mitsubishi)

    I used eyeballing as a scientific method of choice. My temporary criteria was: "does it look close enough?"

    ECU is throwing 31 error (not permanently, it's 50/50 on and off) but all symptoms suggest that it's bad sensor. I did't pull it out yet, but since I have the battery relocated to the trunk I was able to squeeze my hand behind the intake manifold and grope the sensor a little bit - definitely the silicone-cap-thing is gone...

    Could anyone provide some expertise? Those sensors have one more advantage from my perspective: there are plenty of them on my local market (Poland) but those are the only ones - nothing else mentioned earlier in the thread seems to be available in Europe, especially in Poland. I'm getting desperate...

    Thx in advance for any insights.
     

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  19. Jan

    Jan Probationary Member

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    OK, I've bought one of those sensors. I've picked the cheapest one considering it may end up as a failed experiment, anyway, here's my story...

    My old sensor has seen better days...
    preview.jpg

    New one seems much better, but when it arrived I noticed that is has a one-wire plug
    preview.jpg

    and the old one employs two:
    preview.jpg

    At least the rest seemed the same
    preview.jpg

    When I've cut off the plug from the new one it figured out that there is a grounding screen around the red wire
    preview.jpg

    Just like the old one :) (it was just masked by the shrinking tube)
    preview.jpg

    And it's connected with the sensor's body
    preview.jpg

    I had a hard time disassembling the old plug, finally I managed to pull everything out but the metal fittings/ends from the plug were pressed very hard and precise, I wasn't able to unhook them to disconnect them from the wires in order to press them on the new ones (I planned to reuse those since I didn't have any matching new ones).
    preview.jpg

    I've ended with cutting the old wire near the plug and soldering it with the new sensor.
    Final product looks like this:
    preview.jpg

    I don't have an oscilloscope to measure and compare both sensors but the rest checks out (it that's any comfort). Every visual aspect of the new part resembles our original one (except for the plug of course). Impedance between the ports on both sensors is 0.56MOhm but I don't know if such measurement on piezoelectric sensor makes any sense - just felt like this is the only electrical thing about them that I could measure.

    Considering above, I installed the new sensor - seems to work like a charm... damn guys... I'm very happy. Looks like it fits a couple of Mazda's models from around 2005-2010 so it should be available on the market for some more time.


    PS
    I have no idea how do some of you build such nice galleries with thumbnails and all in your posts - the only option for me was to embed the images from an external source and the forum engine is not building thumbnails that way. I just hope my post is still readable.
    I also overestimated my phone's ability to take macro photos, some are blurry - sorry for that, but I think they still present the general idea of what's going on there.
     

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  20. 1990TSIAWDTALON

    1990TSIAWDTALON Moderator

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    Thanks for following up with the results that you have. :thumb:
    What year and model of Mazda did you think these came from? I am willing to look into it and see what I think.
    Marty
     

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  21. Mech Addict

    Mech Addict Supporting Member

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    Well done! Looks like you may have solved a problem that was hot topic: where to get new knock sensor for 4G63t. It doesn't surprise me much that two completely different vehicles use a very similar part, auto industry is founded on that principle. The computer logic and circuits are also likely very similar, since why re-invent it? Could have been developed by a common supplier (the way Bosch or Brembo works, for example). It would be handy to know if this part behaves the same in detecting knock, which perhaps normal running would not immediately reveal. An engine could tolerate some moderate knock for a while before damage, so it's not an easy check. At least it's running good for you now. Keep us informed as you get some miles on this setup. Thanks!!
     

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  22. Jan

    Jan Probationary Member

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    Information from the source I bought it from (copy-pasted without any confirmation from other sources, not sure how far this info can be trusted)
    Model:
    • Type, engine size [ccm] (1000ccm = 1 liter), production dates [year.month]
    MAZDA, 2 (DE):
    • 1.3., 1349, 2007.10 - 2015.06
    MAZDA, 3 (BK):
    • 1.4., 1349, 2003.10 - 2009.06
    • 1.6., 1598, 2003.10 - 2009.06
    • 2.0 MZR-CD, 1998, 2006.12 - 2009.06
    • 2.0, 1999, 2003.10 - 2009.06
    • 2.3 MPS Turbo, 2261, 2006.12 - 2009.06
    MAZDA, 3 (BL):
    • 2.0 MZR, 1999, 2009.06 -
    MAZDA, 3 sedan (BK):
    • 2.0 MZR-CD, 1998, 2006.12 - 2009.06
    • 2.0, 1999, 2004.02 - 2009.06
    • 2.0, 1999, 2004.04 - 2006.06
    MAZDA, 3 sedan (BL):
    • 2.0 MZR, 1999, 2009.06 -
    MAZDA, 5 (CR19):
    • 2.0 CD, 1998, 2005.06 -
    MAZDA, 6 (GG):
    • 2.0 DI, 1998, 2005.06 - 2007.08
    • 2.0, 1999, 2002.06 - 2007.08
    MAZDA, 6 (GH):
    • 2.0 MZR-CD, 1998, 2007.08 -
    • 2.0 MZR, 1999, 2007.08 -
    MAZDA, 6 Hatchback (GG):
    • 2.0 DI, 1998, 2005.06 - 2007.08
    • 2.0, 1999, 2002.08 - 2007.08
    MAZDA, 6 kombi (GH):
    • 2.0 MZR-CD, 1998, 2008.02 -
    • 2.0 MZR, 1999, 2008.02 -
    MAZDA, 6 liftback (GH):
    • 2.0 MZR-CD, 1998, 2007.08 -
    • 2.0 MZR, 1999, 2007.08 -
    MAZDA, 6 Station Wagon (GY):
    • 2.0 DI, 1998, 2005.06 - 2007.08
    • 2.0, 1999, 2002.08 - 2007.08
     

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    1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
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  23. 1990TSIAWDTALON

    1990TSIAWDTALON Moderator

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    Thank you Jan! I think I found it on a 2005 Mazda MVP, or the picture looks like it, even though the part numbers from Standard Motor Company don't match the unit that they made for the 1G DSM's. Keep us updated on any knock that it DOES pick up so we can all decide if it is a good enough replacement.
    Appreciate the info!
     

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  24. Jan

    Jan Probationary Member

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    For sure I will.

    But there are a couple of other smaller things I have to resolve first. I haven't driven it for almost a year due to fuel pump failure, fix of which developed into rear break lines replacement and lot's of other stuff along the way. But now when it's almost ready I'm very anxious to take the car on the open road again - believe me. Hopefully in a week or two I will have some info to report back.
     

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  25. curt-s

    curt-s Proven Member

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    Thats the part that worries me - the respnonse. The sensor would be grounded through its body and the sheathing being grounded also helps in terms of EMI shielding.

    The pieczoelectric element, however, may not react to the same frequencies and the element itself needs to fall within the same electrical parameters as the original sensor to be compatible with the 1g ecu knock board and circuit. although they look the same that doesnt necessarily mean they act the same and my question is without the controllable tests and comparisons between the two sensors, how would we ever know that its picking up knock when its most critical?

    For instance, isn't the MZR block these are used on made from aluminium? Or are some of the ones above the hold-over iron versions? That could dramatically change parameters, I dont know...


    Be careful but good luck. I am pulling for you but it would be great if you could consult with datasheets on both sensors before you push power through an engine checked by a sensor meant for a totally different application.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2020

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