1G Sensor Replacement (Those that fail with AGE and Best Brand?)

[DakFink]

Issue: 1992 Talon TSi with 54000 miles, 100% stock. Currently has an intermittent Miss on acceleration. Runs smooth all other times. Plugs were changed, Wires NOT yet (Son works at Oreilly and says all their available Plug Wires for this car are junk. I need to order a set.) I have a coil on standby, and have read that the CAS may also be an issue. Going to change all the above next time at home.

Background for following question: I also have another vehicle 199 Dakota with 65000 miles that many of the sensors just go bad with age and when replacing them most need to be replaced with OEM or same Brand as the OEM used or they tend to not like to last or even work. IAC, O2, Trans Press Gov. , Coil and the PCM itself all went bad in the last 2 yrs with being driven less than 2000 miles.

With the above issue needing addressed: When replacing the CAS is there any Brand that works well or is the same as the OEM? And any Brand to stay away from?

Is there any other sensors that should be replaced from age alone? If so which ones and preferred brand? Might as well change them before they become an issue. Especially the IAC if anyone actually makes a replacement.

Thanks Guys and Gals!

 

[danl]

Standard motor products seem fine.

TAMA makes some of the oem temperature sensors.

https://www.tama-e.co.jp/omrop2016_180329/top.html

 

[luv2rallye]

There are different best brands depending on the type of item. For example electrical, belts, suspension, sensors, exhaust, water pumps, brakes, turbos, alts, etc each have their own best brands. The factory OEM is nearly always best and will always work, however it will cost more and often isn't made anymore or available for these older cars.

Best brands for many electrical items (example: alts, starters, O2 sensors, coils) are: Denso, Bosch, AC Delco, Mitsubishi, Matsu, Komatsu, Hitachi (and many of these are the factory brands). IMO stay away from auto store house brands like Autozone's "Duralast", NAPA's "Doorman", O'Reilly's "Power Torque" which IMO I have found to all be junk (will break or won't last). IMO never buy those house brands (eg. a water pump: never, never, ever, under any circumstances or you will be sorry) unless you have to (and even then never a water pump). Never buy a re-manufactured alt/starter from a auto store - they are all junk and not worth the "lifetime" warranty when they keep going out over and over. If you want a reman, go to an alt/starter repair shop.

Some nearly always good brands of certain items are Gates (especially belts), Beck Arnley (which buys up OEM factory overstock and puts in their own box), Altrom (other brands OEM in other brand boxes), Aisin (OEM). A brand like Garrett or Holset turbos everyone agrees makes the best. Other brands (eg. suspensions, blow off valves, exhausts, manifolds, etc) you will always get different opinions on what is best (can search this forum). Some items you'll rarely even see in an aftermarket (eg. CAS, throttle body) so you often have to get any leftover factory OEM (or possibly used factory parts).

Like everything you get what you pay for, so as a rule of thumb in general the higher the price, the better the quality. Pretty much anything made in China is always junk and stay away no matter what the price (eg. brake rotors which use extremely inferior metal that always warps in 3-6 months).

 

[TerminalTalon]

I always recommend OEM, NGK/NTK or Denso.

 

[pauleyman]

With the above issue needing addressed: When replacing the CAS is there any Brand that works well or is the same as the OEM? And any Brand to stay away from?

I wouldn't throw parts at it. Wires are a wear item. CAS and coils are not. Unless there is an objective reason to replace these I wouldn't.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Hell I think I have the original one from my DSM works fine. OEM parts are second party or re-manufactures. Our cars are 30 years old some parts aren't made anymore by mitsu, asin makes a lot of replacement parts though in 1994 it was so nice to get parts from the mitsu dealership i worked at. I could walk up and order OEM parts.

 

[steve]

There is little to go wrong with the 91-94 1G CAS besides the seals, they are optical or Hall Effect. 90 CAS are know for the insulation cracking on the wires.

TPS wears out from the wiper dragging over the same spots of the resistance element.

The original ISC are time bombs known for shorting coils and burning up the drivers in the ECU.

ECU's for this era all have bad capacitors that leak and damage the circuit boards or catch fire if they short from drying out. They need then changed before they do damage or a full rebuild if they have.

The wiring for the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) sensor and IPS (Idle Position Switch) tends to get cooked and break as does the wires for the Oil Pressure and Power Steering Pressure switch.

The level sensor in the bottom of the radiator overflow bottle tends to get junked up. A good wash with hot water usually frees them up.

As mentioned the plug wires are wear items and NGK made nice replacements. You want their spark plugs too.

Pretty much all the replacement PCV are junk and won't seal against boost so they become air leaks into the intake manifold.

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

There are different best brands depending on the type of item. For example electrical, belts, suspension, sensors, exhaust, water pumps, brakes, turbos, alts, etc each have their own best brands. The factory OEM is nearly always best and will always work, however it will cost more and often isn't made anymore or available for these older cars.

Best brands for many electrical items (example: alts, starters, O2 sensors, coils) are: Denso, Bosch, AC Delco, Mitsubishi, Matsu, Komatsu, Hitachi (and many of these are the factory brands). IMO stay away from auto store house brands like Autozone's "Duralast", NAPA's "Doorman", O'Reilly's "Power Torque" which IMO I have found to all be junk (will break or won't last). IMO never buy those house brands (eg. a water pump: never, never, ever, under any circumstances or you will be sorry) unless you have to (and even then never a water pump). Never buy a re-manufactured alt/starter from a auto store - they are all junk and not worth the "lifetime" warranty when they keep going out over and over. If you want a reman, go to an alt/starter repair shop.

Some nearly always good brands of certain items are Gates (especially belts), Beck Arnley (which buys up OEM factory overstock and puts in their own box), Altrom (other brands OEM in other brand boxes), Aisin (OEM). A brand like Garrett or Holset turbos everyone agrees makes the best. Other brands (eg. suspensions, blow off valves, exhausts, manifolds, etc) you will always get different opinions on what is best (can search this forum). Some items you'll rarely even see in an aftermarket (eg. CAS, throttle body) so you often have to get any leftover factory OEM (or possibly used factory parts).

Like everything you get what you pay for, so as a rule of thumb in general the higher the price, the better the quality. Pretty much anything made in China is always junk and stay away no matter what the price (eg. brake rotors which use extremely inferior metal that always warps in 3-6 months).

While I mostly agree with this, I will say the Duracrap sensors from Autozone can sometimes be surprising, before 1g knock sensors went extinct the duracrap ones were oem Mitsubishi tossed in an autozone box and sold for $20 less than oem bagged ones from the vendors. I’ve also had no problem with their TPS or ISC, however I’ve found the GM style IAT’s from them are one that’s definitely junk and typically only lasts a few days.

 

[DakFink]

WELL my son has been driving the car lately and got tired of the Missing on Acceleration so he decided to pull the Spark Plugs which BTW he changed less than 5000 miles ago and sure enough on #3, the Ceramic was cracked. He replaced that 1 and he said it doesn't miss any more.

Far as the IAC! I had one fry itself and the ECM on a 1991 Laser I had years ago. This 92 Talon I do have receipts where the previous owner had the ECM replaced. Would it be wise to replace the IAC? I have never seen stated whether the IAC typically goes bad and takes out the ECM or the ECM goes bad and takes out the IAC or they just shit-themselves together? I was eventually going to switch to a Haltech PnP system.

 

[steve]

I have never seen stated whether the IAC typically goes bad and takes out the ECM or the ECM goes bad and takes out the IAC or they just shit-themselves together?

It's clearly the case of the coils in the old metal cased ISC shorting and that causes too much current to flow through the ECU driver ICs which burns them up.

I haven't seen a black plastic ISC/IAC have shorted coils, yet. That makes me think it's got something to due with the metal case expanding at a different rate as the plastic end cap and letting moisture in to damage the coil windings.

A broken plug would surely cause a misfire, was it broken due to mishandling or knock?

 

[wparks]

I really appreciate you coming back and telling us what you found that was causing the problem. It contributes knowledge and experience to all who read the solution. It would have been easy to NOT pull the plugs, and shotgun a bunch of other parts while resting on the assumption that the plugs were not the problem as they had already been changed. Good find by your son. Curious the ceramic broke- that is strange. Steve gives a lot of really good points on how sensors and wiring age and things you should look for.

This is all academic now, but I was going to suggest first thing to pull the plugs and check them. Next would be to ohm out the wires- I have seen so many older wires that crack and arc internally and only a resistance test will tell. I also like to use a spark strength tester like this one just to make sure the spark was of sufficient and similar strength, being sure to check both coils. The stock 2-coil system passes current through two wires in series, so is more susceptible to wire failure.

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Misfire on acceleration could be a lot of things of course- When you dramatically increase the amount of fuel-air mix in the cylinder on hard acceleration, it is harder to push a spark through the mixture, so plugs, wires, and spark strength are suspect. The ratio of fuel and air must increase together properly, so the Throttle Position Sensor and Idle Stop Switch and any air leaks between the Mass Air Flow sensor in the air filter and turbo intake are suspect. Take note about the ECU capacitors- I have heard of rough idle and missing as common symptoms of capacitor failure in the ECU. IF you have not pulled it and replaced them, you should. Timing must also be correct, so next I would have suggested checking base timing.