halffast1g
10+ Year Contributor
- 178
- 0
- Jul 11, 2008
-
phoenix,
Arizona
This thread is for the people who are doing a balance shaft removal and are having difficulty getting the balance shaft bearings back into place to block the oiling holes
I would first like to state that I did the balance shaft removal, but I left the shaft in (not the one that was connected to the oil pump, ya the other one). I was told that the shaft would block the oil flow, but it did not. My car leaked like a mother####er from the front case. So I went back and dropped the engine down a bit, removed the balance shaft, then punched the bearings out, no problemo. I used a socket the size of the balance shaft bearing connected to an extension to tap the bearings out ( yes I needed to use a hammer)
OK, well I go to turn the stock bearings 180 degrees and punch them back in. I try to stick my hand in the block and line the rear most bearing ( the one with the smaller diameter) back into place, then tapped away with the socket. It must have been misaligned so the bearing split. The stock bearings are a split ( 2 piece ) design. I ordered up a set of new bearings from Parts Dinosaur which includes 3 bearings ( 2 replacements bearings for the rear smaller diameter bearings and 1 replacement bearing for the front larger diameter bearing, all of which are 1 piece!)
Here is the link to the product, which only costs $13 plus shipping. 4G63 4G64 G63B Mitsubishi Balance Shaft Bearings
So I received the bearings, and tried to work my magic again, however using the same old method the fail was strong with me. I ended up bending the first rear ( don't forget, smaller diameter) bearing again due to misalignment. Now trying with the second bearing I reversed the balance shaft and used it to drive the bearing into place. Not so fast, I bent up another one.
I reorder the 1 piece bearings from parts dinosaur, but in the meantime I construct a bearing driver from a rented autozone bearing driver kit (which is not long enough to get to the rear balance shaft bearing) , the original balance shaft, a socket just slightly smaller than the balance shaft bearing itself, a m8 x 1.25 pitch bolt (70 mm length) and a standard m10 washer.
Here is the link to the autozone rental bearing driver kit Bearing Race and Seal Driver Installer | AutoZone.com
Ok, well here is what I constructed. It consists of everything I listed and out of the bearing driver kit I used the No. 2 bearing driver.
and the link for those who cannot view the picture
http://i352.photobucket.com/albums/r337/halffast1g/2010-08-05104453.jpg
The No. 2 bearing driver will not fit over the end of the balance shaft, so you have to do just a few minutes of grinding to get it to fit. So slip that on first, then your socket turned backwards (so that the part that a ratchet or extension would go into faces the front of the balance shaft). Next place the bolt through the washer, and run the bolt through the socket and thread it into the female threads of the balance shaft. Tighten bolt very lightly to keep entire unit in line.
Slide the balance shaft bearing over the socket ( which is just small enough for the bearings to slide over it) and towards the No. 2 bearing driver. The bearing will be seated against the driver and ready for insertion into the engine. The large socket allows for direct line up into the rear balance shaft bearing hole. Slide the whole assembly as far rearward until the bearing is snug against the balance shaft bearing hole. It should be perfectly lined up but give it a little wiggle to ensure it is. Use of a bright light may help, however visibility is extremely limited. Give the entire assembly a few taps to seat the bearing, then a few more solid taparoo's to fully extend the bearing into the hole. Don't forget that the oiling hole on the bearing should be 180 degrees out from the oiling hole in the block. Success
Now that you have the rear balance shaft bearing seated fully to your satisfaction, it is time to do the front balance shaft bearing hole, which is much more simple. Just take the No. 2 bearing driver off of your assembly and put it on the tool they give you in the autozone rental kit and line up, and tap away until it is in place.
Please pm me or reply in this thread if you have questions.
I would first like to state that I did the balance shaft removal, but I left the shaft in (not the one that was connected to the oil pump, ya the other one). I was told that the shaft would block the oil flow, but it did not. My car leaked like a mother####er from the front case. So I went back and dropped the engine down a bit, removed the balance shaft, then punched the bearings out, no problemo. I used a socket the size of the balance shaft bearing connected to an extension to tap the bearings out ( yes I needed to use a hammer)
OK, well I go to turn the stock bearings 180 degrees and punch them back in. I try to stick my hand in the block and line the rear most bearing ( the one with the smaller diameter) back into place, then tapped away with the socket. It must have been misaligned so the bearing split. The stock bearings are a split ( 2 piece ) design. I ordered up a set of new bearings from Parts Dinosaur which includes 3 bearings ( 2 replacements bearings for the rear smaller diameter bearings and 1 replacement bearing for the front larger diameter bearing, all of which are 1 piece!)
Here is the link to the product, which only costs $13 plus shipping. 4G63 4G64 G63B Mitsubishi Balance Shaft Bearings
So I received the bearings, and tried to work my magic again, however using the same old method the fail was strong with me. I ended up bending the first rear ( don't forget, smaller diameter) bearing again due to misalignment. Now trying with the second bearing I reversed the balance shaft and used it to drive the bearing into place. Not so fast, I bent up another one.
I reorder the 1 piece bearings from parts dinosaur, but in the meantime I construct a bearing driver from a rented autozone bearing driver kit (which is not long enough to get to the rear balance shaft bearing) , the original balance shaft, a socket just slightly smaller than the balance shaft bearing itself, a m8 x 1.25 pitch bolt (70 mm length) and a standard m10 washer.
Here is the link to the autozone rental bearing driver kit Bearing Race and Seal Driver Installer | AutoZone.com
Ok, well here is what I constructed. It consists of everything I listed and out of the bearing driver kit I used the No. 2 bearing driver.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
and the link for those who cannot view the picture
http://i352.photobucket.com/albums/r337/halffast1g/2010-08-05104453.jpg
The No. 2 bearing driver will not fit over the end of the balance shaft, so you have to do just a few minutes of grinding to get it to fit. So slip that on first, then your socket turned backwards (so that the part that a ratchet or extension would go into faces the front of the balance shaft). Next place the bolt through the washer, and run the bolt through the socket and thread it into the female threads of the balance shaft. Tighten bolt very lightly to keep entire unit in line.
Slide the balance shaft bearing over the socket ( which is just small enough for the bearings to slide over it) and towards the No. 2 bearing driver. The bearing will be seated against the driver and ready for insertion into the engine. The large socket allows for direct line up into the rear balance shaft bearing hole. Slide the whole assembly as far rearward until the bearing is snug against the balance shaft bearing hole. It should be perfectly lined up but give it a little wiggle to ensure it is. Use of a bright light may help, however visibility is extremely limited. Give the entire assembly a few taps to seat the bearing, then a few more solid taparoo's to fully extend the bearing into the hole. Don't forget that the oiling hole on the bearing should be 180 degrees out from the oiling hole in the block. Success
Now that you have the rear balance shaft bearing seated fully to your satisfaction, it is time to do the front balance shaft bearing hole, which is much more simple. Just take the No. 2 bearing driver off of your assembly and put it on the tool they give you in the autozone rental kit and line up, and tap away until it is in place.
Please pm me or reply in this thread if you have questions.
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