Battery relocation [Merged 3-8]

[metasonic]

I want to relocate my battery, and I already have 4 gauge wire going to my trunk.. Most kits come with 2, but do you think 4 would be sufficient? Also am i supposed to use a fuse? If so how many amps? I'd imagine the starter draws a rediculous amount. Thanks

-matt

 

[92tsiawd84]

I just installed a fmic and have to relocate my battery to the trunk. I went to audio king and purchased some 4 gauge wire to do this. A local dsmer said that I should use copper wire instead of the aluminum which I just purchassed. Would the aluminum wire be sufficient? Also, how do I get that big wire through the firewall on the drivers side? Same guy said I shoud remove the ac to get rid of 15lbs (not much weight) and have a hole in it. Couldn't I just drill a hole? Thanks in advance.

 

[BUCK]

Don't even THINK about using the aluminum wire & get some expert help - emphasis on the EXPERT part.

 

[Spln_Hrd]

i don't know that u need an expert. but u need to relocate all the wires to EVERYTHING that is powered by the battery to the trunk, this should take plenty of time, i would probly go with double o gauge actually or at least o to run wires that far it would be a good idea
just drill a hole in the fire wall. and run the lines to the trunk. make sure u have a ground as big(pref bigger) as the power and make it as short as possible and don't run these power lines next to rca cables or near them if you have a stereo that runs off an aftermarket amplefier, becuase it will mess up the sound

oh and use copper it conducts electicity better than aluminum, maybe get some new terminal connectors for the battery, get everything gold plated or copper they conduct electricity well

and u might want to run a drycell battery since it is inside your car so you don't have it make a huge mess if something goes wrong. i recomend an optima they work well in my cars

 

[neuromonic]

I've never done this, but I was under the impression you only need to relocate one cable. If it were me I would purchase a kit like this one...


http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=134663&prmenbr=361

edit: this kit looks complete with a longer power cable that would run through the firewall and a shorter ground that you could ground on your chassis or frame.

 

[92tsiawd84]

Thanks, I may get a kit like that. The only thing bothering me now is drilling a hole in the firewall. The whole battery relocation doesn't seem like that much work so I dont think I need "expert" help. Vfaq show how to do it pretty well. I dont have anything in the back of the car now anyhow so wiring shouldn't be too dificult.

 

[BUCK]

On the Battery relo subject - I'm ALMOST thru LOWERING mine - the hole where the charcoal canister used to be left some room for that - Just thought that might be an option for you - The big deal I know of in a rear mounted battery (one of my new cars has the Battery in the trunk) is that there must be a fuse AT THE BATTERY - remember - 12 Volt DC & Hi Amps in a big cable is the rough equivalent of a FREAKING WELDER!! And - batteries have been known to explode when dead shorted - not too pretty on interiors & metal & damn dangerous to eyes, skin, sensitive audio components - $1400 ECU's , etc, etc... Be VERY prudent - It must be done right - Good Luck.

 

[92tsiawd84]

I just purchassed summitts battery relocation kit along with a kill switch. Kit comes with a battery box, wires, strap, etc. Anyone drilled a hole through a dsm firewall? If so, where did you drill it? I dont want to run the wire all the way through the drivers side to get it back there. Also I plan on grounding it in the trunk on a bolt. Any forseen problems with this?

 

[anomalyinva]

They also got 20+whp from a HKS FCD. Import tuner is the most worthless import magazine known to man.

Originally posted by 311GSX
Do you guys have a sealed battery?I thought that a batterys produce gas that is explosive and possably posionous.I wouldn't want that in the car.Also in the august issue of import tuner they tested a 92 Talon with Hyper Ground wires and got 5 HP and 16lbs of tQ to the wheels.Battery to injector resistors,batt. to throtle cable bracket,Bracket to tranny bolt,bracket to fuel rail bolt closest to coil pack and fuel rail bolt to shock tower.They said It took alot of expermentation but that gave the best results.I almost want to make my own kit and try it.

Bob

 

[311GSX]

I did not think the power they got from the ground kit was too outragious.But since then when they added the other parts in the newer issue the power gains were pretty out there.Definatly more of a ricer mag. than others

Bob

Originally posted by anomalyinva
They also got 20+whp from a HKS FCD. Import tuner is the most worthless import magazine known to man.

 

[brads]

Originally posted by 311GSX
I did not think the power they got from the ground kit was too outragious.

All that proves is that you don't understand engine control electronics A 1hp claim from improved ground on our cars is suspect to say the least, 15hp is plain silly. Do a search on ground wires before bringing back posts from the dead, they have been discussed here plenty. I have laid out the relevant info on ground wires in some of my previous posts, that should be enough to answer any questions about their claimed benefits.

Brad

 

[dsmturboawd]

Originally posted by Turboniam
A buddy of mine showed me an article from that magazine where they got a 5.4 hp gain and 16.4 ft/lbs ON THE DYNO on a 1g Turbo DSM from a grounding kit.

Haven't done the mod, YET, but I plan on it

ah yes, youre referring to the car that caught fire just prior to the dyno run. im sure the stock wiring was up to par on that car.

grounding kits do nothing but make money for the jerkoffs selling them.

 

[leet]

I would like to see an independant DSM vendor check to see if all this hoopla is worth it or not, referring to "earthing" systems.

 

[311GSX]

Originally posted by brads
All that proves is that you don't understand engine control electronics A 1hp claim from improved ground on our cars is suspect to say the least, 15hp is plain silly. Do a search on ground wires before bringing back posts from the dead, they have been discussed here plenty. I have laid out the relevant info on ground wires in some of my previous posts, that should be enough to answer any questions about their claimed benefits.

Brad

I have enough of an understanding about electronics to make my car fast and that is enough for me.I don't have any fancy ground kit on my car frankly b/c I don't think it will do any thing, how many racers do you know with them?I don't know of any,BTW,I never brought it back from the dead I could care less

 

[mustg5]

In the kit I got came with 2 feet of ground wire. Can i just wire that to the frame, and then wire the ground off the starter motor to the frame alos, or do i have to go out and by 15ft of ground wire so i can run it all the way from the trunk to the engine bay?? thanks guys

 

[DongeR]

Use the ground wire from the negative terminal to the frame within 2' feet. then if you have spare ground wire, use it for the ground on the starter to the frame.

 

[mustg5]

so ur saying just use the ground wire they gave me and ground it to the frame somewhere in the trunk. Then take the groundwire from the starter and ground it to the frame in the engine bay?

 

[DongeR]

http://www.geocities.com/dan0myte/mods/battery.html
there ya go with pictures

 

[1 fast eclipse]

Did any of you ever put your battery in the trunk if so how and is there a kit?

Thanks

 

[4wd-Eclipse]

see this: http://store.summitracing.com/

 

[MNGSX]

Quite a few people

VFAQ

(ever get the feeling AFLAQ comercials were inspired by DSM forums?)


http://www.geocities.com/dan0myte/mods/battery.html

 

[Mike1992]

I thought about doing this as my battery terminal is rubbing the paint away from the underside of my hood. heres a decently priced kit on EBAy Click Here Can anyone tell me what to do about my rubbing problem i dont want my engine wiring to fry like it did in my laser 3 years ago from the positive terminal connecting itself to the hood.

 

[Enigma_Man]

Push your battery back, get smaller terminals, cover your terminals with a piece of rubber, bend the terminals out of the way, use a hammer to dent out the hood support where it hits, want me to keep going?

It's a very simple thing, just move it out of the damn way.

-Jesse

 

[1fast97gsx]

yea why bother relocating?

 

[TOTalon]

Originally posted by 1fast97gsx
yea why bother relocating?

Less cluttered engine bay, better weight distribution, and from what Ive heard it makes a fuel pump rewire much easier.