Battery relocation wiring question.

[Flybiyou]

I have searched and have not found the answer I have been looking for.
I would like to move the battery to the rear and have seen tons of wiring diagrams but was curious if it can be done easier.

Can I go " Battery to 200 amp breader to distribution block under hood and just hook up the 3 postive wires in the engine bay up? Of course connect battery to grounded area in rear and ground under the hood to firewall.

Why does everyone connect a line from the distribution box to the starter and to the alternator? I see no reason as the wires are already there.
If this has been answered sorry but I have read page after page and all I see is more wires than I belive to be needed ran.

I know this is not NHRA approved without a cutoff switch that's fine as I will not be going to a track soon. Battery will be in a box vented to under car.

 

[Boomdeeze]

I am in the same position as you in deciding how exactly I am going to mount the battery in the trunk. To answer your question, yes you can run it like that. I have read of many people running it like that but as you said it will not pass tech(Which you are not worried about).

People run a line from the distribution block to the starter to give it a fresh line for power. The reason I see running a new wire for the alternator is when you run the charging cable to the rear so you can connect it to the cut-off switch. If you are not running the cut-off switch, you can use the stock wiring which will go in to your distribution block.

So after all of that, yes you can run it how you described and it is basically using the stock setup with a very long feed wire plus a breaker close to the battery. Remember though that even if your breaker were to trip, the alternator will supply power to the opposite side of the cable which is still run through your car unless the alternator fuse is popped too.

 

[ThunderChild]

either run the alt charge wire to the rear or get a cutoff switch with a low-current relay integrated into it so you can interrupt the fuel pump or ignition feed.

flybiyou, i have mine wired essentially how you described, and i kick myself for it now. im going to end up running an 8 or 4 gauge charge wire to the batt side of my cutoff switch. thought about changing switches but i very much like mine, and adding a mechanical relay kill for the fuel pump, idk if it would be very reliable.

do it now and avoid the headache later, theres no drawback to doing it now.

 

[Boomdeeze]

If you are going to install a relay kill, why not just run the fuel pump wire to the switched side of the kill switch and essentially have power cut to it at the same time as the power to the rest of the car?

 

[Boomdeeze]

Just run this setup and not have to worry about future modifications:

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Put the kill switch behind your license plate and remove it if you go to the track to pass tech.

 

[Flybiyou]

I will run a wire to the rear from the alternator for the future kill switch and just disconnect the stock wire from alternator at that time. What is the purpose of having a 150amp breaker and a 150amp anl fuse on the alternator wire going back? Would 1 or the other be fine?

 

[Boomdeeze]

That is just an example I found in another thread but I may run the fuze and breaker in that line just for added protection.