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2G HELP!! Battery relocation wiring

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LTUDSM

15+ Year Contributor
1,802
7
Jun 27, 2005
Morrisville, Pennsylvania
I did a battery relocation to the trunk. I used 2 awg wire for positive (+) and same gauge for negative (-). The thing is,that when i crank the engine ,the positive wire getting hot and if ill crank car longer ,the fuse pops out. Should i use 0 AWG wire for positive and leave the negative 2awg? My ground wire from neg battery terminal is connected to the rear strut. Should i need to run another 2awg wire from battery to the enginebay for a better ground?
Here is of how is my setup looks like:
 

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Looking @ your diagram, do you have the starter wired direct to the battery or thru the alternator's fuse?
It needs to be direct, the starter will easily overload the alternator fuse.


I have offered help to others in the past here with battery relocation problems & have been ignored.
But you need to do a voltage drop test & see what you come back with.
The standard is .5 volt, but IMO that is high, should be .3 or so max on positve or negative.
The testing looks like this test both positve & negative, with a relocate, you'll need a long jumper wire.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I have done many battery relocations, but always ended up using 0 or even better 00 gauge cable.
Why?
The math is simple with length & gauge of cable run, amp load & voltage.
Your average 4 cylinder is gonna be 160-175 amp draw cranking.
This caculator posted below is not automotive based but the math is solid;
Voltage Drop Calculator

You have to remember also the actual battery voltage while cranking will be between 10-11 volts.
This will only make the voltage drop become greater.

You can get away with running a lesser circuit, but is it right?
Problem free? Not indefinitely....
 

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Also I would run a ground wire up to the engine bay. The body is not the best ground all the time.

But as stated above. Go up to 0 or 2/0 gauge or do a direct 4 gauge to the starter
 
Looking @ your diagram, do you have the starter wired direct to the battery or thru the alternator's fuse?
It needs to be direct, the starter will easily overload the alternator fuse.


I have offered help to others in the past here with battery relocation problems & have been ignored.
But you need to do a voltage drop test & see what you come back with.
The standard is .5 volt, but IMO that is high, should be .3 or so max on positve or negative.
The testing looks like this test both positve & negative, with a relocate, you'll need a long jumper wire.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I have done many battery relocations, but always ended up using 0 or even better 00 gauge cable.
Why?
The math is simple with length & gauge of cable run, amp load & voltage.
Your average 4 cylinder is gonna be 160-175 amp draw cranking.
This caculator posted below is not automotive based but the math is solid;
Voltage Drop Calculator

You have to remember also the actual battery voltage while cranking will be between 10-11 volts.
This will only make the voltage drop become greater.

You can get away with running a lesser circuit, but is it right?
Problem free? Not indefinitely....


My Starter cable (+) is connected directly to the positive battery cable.
What does the voltage drop supposed to do with main battery (+) wire getting hot?????:hmm:
 

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Good info in this thread!

The 2 things that will fix your prob like previously mentioned are:

-Larger gauge wire
-Ground ran to engine bay
 
My Starter cable (+) is connected directly to the positive battery cable.
What does the voltage drop supposed to do with main battery (+) wire getting hot?????:hmm:

In a high load DC circuit with a series wound motor with a mecanical load ( the starter) you are asking for quite a bit of amperage.

In some cases it comes down to 10 lbs of $#!& in a 5 pound bag.
The tell tail will be a voltage drop.
If the circuit is incorrect either in the
Wire gauge or amperage draw the voltage drop will be excessive.
This produces heat because the circuit's wiring itself is now a load under cranking. This is why it is measurable in voltage.
A single solid wire cable with no resistance @ rest should not consume voltage while in use.
If it does use voltage while in use at an excess, there is something wrong.
Marginal connections also create resistance & heat.
These can be harder to find at times, due to being fine at every other instance except cranking the engine.
Once again voltage drop will tell you there is a problem to look for.

But you have to know all the variables voltage/amperage/resistance to get it optimal.

For simple easy DIY stuff voltage drop will get you quite a long way having it right.

So does it make sense in a start circuit what can make heat?
 
In a high load DC circuit with a series wound motor with a mecanical load ( the starter) you are asking for quite a bit of amperage.

In some cases it comes down to 10 lbs of $#!& in a 5 pound bag.
The tell tail will be a voltage drop.
If the circuit is incorrect either in the
Wire gauge or amperage draw the voltage drop will be excessive.
This produces heat because the circuit's wiring itself is now a load under cranking. This is why it is measurable in voltage.
A single solid wire cable with no resistance @ rest should not consume voltage while in use.
If it does use voltage while in use at an excess, there is something wrong.
Marginal connections also create resistance & heat.
These can be harder to find at times, due to being fine at every other instance except cranking the engine.
Once again voltage drop will tell you there is a problem to look for.

But you have to know all the variables voltage/amperage/resistance to get it optimal.

For simple easy DIY stuff voltage drop will get you quite a long way having it right.

So does it make sense in a start circuit what can make heat?

Right now it DOES :p,Thanks Wrencher :thumb:...... Im going to buy a 0 gauge and 4 gauge wires. Will run 0 gauge from battery to engine bay as a positive(+) then 2 gauge from battery to enginebay as a ground (-), and another 4 gauge wire will run from battery to the starter....... Then i will measure resistance and will be back with results.......
 
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