The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G Street Build Battery Relocation HELP

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cswindel

Proven Member
316
569
Jan 13, 2023
Georgia
I know this is a worn out topic but I have done a lot of searching on this topic and there are a ton of variances (which is to be expected with various builds). I am looking for advice pertaining to my build and with the information I have collected thus far with looking at race and street builds. I am open to discuss on the fuel pump re-wire as well because I will be hitting that once I resolve this. Of note, I don't plant to run a kill switch at the moment because this is just a street car, nothing serious.

Parts I am working with:
  • 2x inline Bosch 909 fuel pumps (~10 amp draw each)
  • Battery (haven't decided)
  • Stock alternator
  • Stock starter
  • OHM Racing Fusebox harness (with new mini-fusebox they have) and OHM Engine harness
  • Greddy triple pod gauges (Data Link), AEM A/F Gauge, Greddy Profec II boost controller
  • 96 and later model MFI (making assumption that this wont need to be spliced into since OHM harness connects to this so if I run fuel pump relay in-line with the wire that hooks up to the fusebox it will still kick out a signal to the fuel pump relay? Understanding of this is limited but like I said, I am actively looking into this piece as well)
Parts list I need help with based on data gathered below (this is where it get conflicting. Rough sketch on how I plan to route things below):

Ground Wire Size
  • Battery (ground to chassis and bell housing): 0 gauge
  • Starter: 0 gauge
Fuses/Circuit Breakers
  • Battery: 150A Fuse and/or Circuit breaker (I feel running both is overkill)
  • Alternator: 100A Fuse, or 80A Fuse
  • In-line Fuel Pumps (with 10A draw each): 1x 30A fuse, 1x 30A Relay (however, i am inclined to run them on separate fuses and relays if this would be better)
Power Wire Sizes
  • From Battery: 0 gauge, 2 gauge
  • To Starter: 0 gauge, 4 gauge
  • To Fusebox: 4 gauge, 8 gauge, 2 gauge-to-8 gauge
  • To Alternator: 0 gauge, 4 gauge
  • To Fuel Pumps: 8 gauge
I'm sure I have left some things out or questions I meant to ask but trying to keep this simple in the beginning to better understand this as electrical is not my strong suite at the moment (but this is going to be a good learning opportunity. Thank you all!
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
The way we have done this over the years is we put a distribution block under the hood. Usually one like for a audio system. Then that distro block gets the alternator, starter, fuse box. The size of this wire we have used from stock to 4 gauge. Then the power wire to rear of car where battery is we use 0 or 2 gauge. We have always added a breaker style fuse inline between the battery and the distro block up front. This way we can kill power inside the car and also if somehow something went wrong it would trip and cut power too. Then at rear ground the battery to chassis. For fuel pump wiring we always used 10 gauge to a relay and then 10 gauge from relay to the pump. The distance the wire has to travel when its all in the rear is short and 10 gauge can handle the amp load of most pumps. I think only time we went larger was with a buddy who has a magnafuel 750 4303 pump and twin relay's. That pump can pull some serious amp's. Yes have a fuse on the main power wire from battery to relay for the pump. Once you get into it it becomes fairly clear how it all works.
 
The way we have done this over the years is we put a distribution block under the hood. Usually one like for a audio system. Then that distro block gets the alternator, starter, fuse box. The size of this wire we have used from stock to 4 gauge. Then the power wire to rear of car where battery is we use 0 or 2 gauge. We have always added a breaker style fuse inline between the battery and the distro block up front. This way we can kill power inside the car and also if somehow something went wrong it would trip and cut power too. Then at rear ground the battery to chassis. For fuel pump wiring we always used 10 gauge to a relay and then 10 gauge from relay to the pump. The distance the wire has to travel when its all in the rear is short and 10 gauge can handle the amp load of most pumps. I think only time we went larger was with a buddy who has a magnafuel 750 4303 pump and twin relay's. That pump can pull some serious amp's. Yes have a fuse on the main power wire from battery to relay for the pump. Once you get into it it becomes fairly clear how it all works.
Much appreciated man! Thank you for this
 
Okay so with what I've gotten so far this is V2 of the initial sketch if this still adds up

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top