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2G Battery Relocation question

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goldeninja20

10+ Year Contributor
589
3
Dec 5, 2010
Norton, Massachusetts
I ran 0 gauge all the way from the battery to a ditribution block, and then 0 gauge to my starter from the block (overkill I know). The only thing I have inline is a 200 amp circuit breaker. The posts were tiny so the 0 gauge terminals do not fit very well. My car cranks slower than before. Could that circuit breaker be a huge restriction. I am deciding if i should swap it with a 200 amp fuse.

Link to circuit breaker. Only ment for 10 gauge i would assume.

200 Amp 12V DC Circuit Breaker Replace Fuse 200A 12VDC | eBay
 
Solution
Just thought i would give a quick update... That circuit breaker was AWFUL. i bought a 200 amp fuse meant for 0 gauge wire. Put it on in place of the circuit breaker, and boom it cranks over like it did with the battery in the front!
Actually, the starter is grounded directly from the (-) battery post, stock. But as long as the negative cable is at least 2 gauge or better, grounding to the firewall should work fine.

Doing a battery relocation would be so much easier if you used a multimeter (DVOM). To see if the breaker is the problem, set the DVOM to 9 volts or less. Put the black lead on one terminal of the breaker and put the red lead on the other terminal of the breaker. Have someone crank the car and record the voltage drop the breaker is dropping.

It would take 5 minutes to determine the problem with a cheap MM.
 
Actually, the starter is grounded directly from the (-) battery post, stock. But as long as the negative cable is at least 2 gauge or better, grounding to the firewall should work fine.

Doing a battery relocation would be so much easier if you used a multimeter (DVOM). To see if the breaker is the problem, set the DVOM to 9 volts or less. Put the black lead on one terminal of the breaker and put the red lead on the other terminal of the breaker. Have someone crank the car and record the voltage drop the breaker is dropping.

It would take 5 minutes to determine the problem with a cheap MM.

Yes, it is 0 gauge. I own a multimeter. Just have to wait for someone to be around to help me.
 
I ran 0 gauge all the way from the battery to a ditribution block, and then 0 gauge to my starter from the block (overkill I know). The only thing I have inline is a 200 amp circuit breaker. The posts were tiny so the 0 gauge terminals do not fit very well. My car cranks slower than before. Could that circuit breaker be a huge restriction. I am deciding if i should swap it with a 200 amp fuse.

Link to circuit breaker. Only ment for 10 gauge i would assume.

200 Amp 12V DC Circuit Breaker Replace Fuse 200A 12VDC | eBay

I have a similar setup. Check your grounds.
 
The starter should not even engage if it's not grounded.

But if the ground is poor (corrosion, paint, bad contact, etc.) it may still engage, but not crank properly. I had this exact issue myself. An engine cleaner I was using corroded my ground from the transmission to the firewall at the firewall end. It was a very intermittent problem. Some days, it would crank over fine, while other days it would act like a dead battery.

Checking voltages showed everything was fine. I even checked from there to the battery ground. It check out OK under the low current the multimeter put through it.
 
grind some of the paint off using a die grinder pnuematic or electric and then screw your ground there and you should be fine just make sure the ground is snug to the body
 
Just thought i would give a quick update... That circuit breaker was AWFUL. i bought a 200 amp fuse meant for 0 gauge wire. Put it on in place of the circuit breaker, and boom it cranks over like it did with the battery in the front!
 
Solution
Yea I got one off eBay before and when it arrived I was disappointed that I wasted $10 on a pos. so I threw it away and order a good one for $30. Someday ill learn to just pony up the money the first time and be done with it!!

Glad it's working out!
 
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