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Battery relocation [Merged 3-8]

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Tech at my local track isn't super picky, I'm sure it will pass. I plan on having the plate removed at the track and a sticker showing where the switch is.
 
Just pulling up a quick question, will I be safe to run 2Ga wire to my starter and alternator? Or should I return this wire and go with 1 gauge. I don't think it will be that big of a deal but I'd rather not waste my time. I've seen everyone do it a bit different. I'm running 2Ga from my box from the trunk to the front as it is, came with my Taylor box and kit.
 
Just pulling up a quick question, will I be safe to run 2Ga wire to my starter and alternator? Or should I return this wire and go with 1 gauge. I don't think it will be that big of a deal but I'd rather not waste my time. I've seen everyone do it a bit different. I'm running 2Ga from my box from the trunk to the front as it is, came with my Taylor box and kit.

My whole rewire is 2 gauge. It'll be fine.
 
step drill bits.
I had to use one to drill out for master cylinder since the car was an auto.

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So I got my wires all ran. I'm using a KunKoncepts power distribution block like shown on a previous page here. Howe exactly do I wire that with the ugly looking fuse box/battery terminal? Basically turns my 1 wire into 3 outputs.
 
All I did was purchase the Summit Racing battery relocation kit which comes with 1 gauge cable. I run the 1 gauge from the trunk right to the factory positive connections in the bay which includes the small oem fuse box. I also use a 175amp circuit breaker for a peace of mind since a positive wire is ran through the inside of the car. The ground just goes to the trunk. I may end up running a ground to the firewall as well and distribute to the engine.

Obviously this method isn't legal for sanctioned racing as there's no cut off for the alternator.
 
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so are you 2G guys removing the white fusible link wires that are split into 2 sets of 2 and replacing them with 4 Gauge wire? with any fuse inline other then the distribution block?
my battery is going in the passenger footwell and I was going to remove them white wires and use 4 gauge like shown with 2x inline circuit breakers at low amps rated for them wires or output going towards my distribution block thats going to sit on the firewall or strut tower!

all your extra inline fuses and breakers just seem wayyyyy over the top more specfically the one going to the alt! you have 2 and I dont see the point as 1 would be more then enough and its extra cost! thankfully im not having my battery in the back
 
Reviving this thread from the dead. Does anyone have a diagram for the 2g relocation and no kill switch, there's alot of dead links for diagrams and so many different versions over the years. Was hoping to relocate my battery this weekend to the trunk as my odyssey doesn't really hold a charge so i picked up a red top and Moroso box.

I already have a 4 gauge feed from the trunk to bay from the amp previously so i was hoping to re utilize that. Purchased 0 gauge wire, distribution blocks, remote battery jumper leads to put in the bay. I do have a rewire with inline fuse for my fuel pump already that isn't pictured and an inline fuse for the amp already. Also not seen is a 0/2/4 to 4/6/8 gauge distribution (non fused) and a 4 way mini anl 0/2/4 to 4/6/8 fused (60)
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