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Battery relocation [Merged 3-8]

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better weight distribution + like you said, the pump rewire is sooooo much easier

i ran 4 gauge, i wouldn't go smaller
 
I know when my brother got his car, a guy had put a battery up behind the drivers side of the rear bumper for his sound system that quickly got riped out when my brother got it.
 
>any noticable difference in cranking power?

Not really. But it can't crank for very long... Sometimes I have a problem on cold starts and I have to use a bat charger for help. But I am not a typical case. Many other people are using this bat (275 CCA) on normal street cars with pretty good results.


>i do have a kill switch on my circuit breaker if that counts

It doesn't count to a "real" track inspector...

Leon
RR
 
anyone make a kit? like a prefabbed nicely welded box that bolts in the trunk, id like something like sheet metal welded like the way they make sheet metal intakes, that i can bolt down and then run the wires
 
you really don't need a box, you can just use the battery hold downs and run the rods up thru the floor....my battery is very solid and will not move

but they do make kits with a box if you are interested, check out summitracing
 
Originally posted by loreak
anyone make a kit? like a prefabbed nicely welded box that bolts in the trunk, id like something like sheet metal welded like the way they make sheet metal intakes, that i can bolt down and then run the wires

i am running the taylor battery relocation kit...it comes with a really nice sheetmetal box and all the wiring and whatnot. its a really nice kit. its kinda expensive at around $125 but its worth it IMO
 
Originally posted by gritsak
i moved mine to the rear...not for any weight saving issues (because like said above it really doesnt save any)...but i did it because it cleans up the engine bay a little bit. thats where ive got my fjo unit mounted now (its tiny compared to the battery but it looks nice there) and ill also mount my ignition there if i ever get around to buying one.

i grounded mine to where the spare tire used to go. theres already a threaded bolt there from where the bracket held down the spare tire..i just grinded away the paint and bolted it there..works perfect.

plus its really easy to do a fuel pump re-wire with the batter that close
dont you have to run the ground wire from the starter and engine to the back of the trunk if you are doing this mod:confused:
 
Do you guys have a sealed battery?I thought that a batterys produce gas that is explosive and possably posionous.I wouldn't want that in the car.Also in the august issue of import tuner they tested a 92 Talon with Hyper Ground wires and got 5 HP and 16lbs of tQ to the wheels.Battery to injector resistors,batt. to throtle cable bracket,Bracket to tranny bolt,bracket to fuel rail bolt closest to coil pack and fuel rail bolt to shock tower.They said It took alot of expermentation but that gave the best results.I almost want to make my own kit and try it.

Bob
 
Originally posted by 311GSX
Do you guys have a sealed battery?I thought that a batterys produce gas that is explosive and possably posionous.I wouldn't want that in the car.Also in the august issue of import tuner they tested a 92 Talon with Hyper Ground wires and got 5 HP and 16lbs of tQ to the wheels.Battery to injector resistors,batt. to throtle cable bracket,Bracket to tranny bolt,bracket to fuel rail bolt closest to coil pack and fuel rail bolt to shock tower.They said It took alot of expermentation but that gave the best results.I almost want to make my own kit and try it.

Bob

ive got a sealed battery (optima red top)...but the relocation kit comes with a vent that you run from the sealed box to outside the car..
 
Originally posted by 311GSX
Do you guys have a sealed battery?I thought that a batterys produce gas that is explosive and possably posionous.I wouldn't want that in the car.Also in the august issue of import tuner they tested a 92 Talon with Hyper Ground wires and got 5 HP and 16lbs of tQ to the wheels.Battery to injector resistors,batt. to throtle cable bracket,Bracket to tranny bolt,bracket to fuel rail bolt closest to coil pack and fuel rail bolt to shock tower.They said It took alot of expermentation but that gave the best results.I almost want to make my own kit and try it.

Bob

they also said that the car had been on fire previously and maybe this is why the grounding helped so much
 
I have planned to move the battery to the trunk. But I'm going to change the ordinary battery by sealed battery to avoid any leaking problem.

I have done this in my brother GVR4 with out any electrical problem:)
 
1g DSM AWD make 15 HP on the wheels from 3500 to 5500 RPM
from Grounding wires.SEEN it on DYNO RUN.
 
Originally posted by loreak
anyone make a kit? like a prefabbed nicely welded box that bolts in the trunk, id like something like sheet metal welded like the way they make sheet metal intakes, that i can bolt down and then run the wires


I got a summit battery relocation kit, threw away the box (only like $5 of this kit) and bought a summit aluminum battery box which looks sweet, then a moroso disconnect switch. Ran 2 gauge to the front of the car and used all gold plated stereo distribution blocks and inline fuses to make the job very top notch. I have a few pictures that I took awhile back during the process, so forgive me if they are a little messy. I will try and take some more in the next few days.

http://www.uxbridgeweather.net/images/talon/new_motor/DSC01157.JPG
http://www.uxbridgeweather.net/images/talon/new_motor/DSC01158.JPG
http://www.uxbridgeweather.net/images/talon/new_motor/DSC01159.JPG
http://www.uxbridgeweather.net/images/talon/new_motor/DSC01160.JPG
 
Originally posted by 311GSX
Do you guys have a sealed battery?I thought that a batterys produce gas that is explosive and possably posionous.I wouldn't want that in the car.Also in the august issue of import tuner they tested a 92 Talon with Hyper Ground wires and got 5 HP and 16lbs of tQ to the wheels.Battery to injector resistors,batt. to throtle cable bracket,Bracket to tranny bolt,bracket to fuel rail bolt closest to coil pack and fuel rail bolt to shock tower.They said It took alot of expermentation but that gave the best results.I almost want to make my own kit and try it.

Bob

A buddy of mine showed me an article from that magazine where they got a 5.4 hp gain and 16.4 ft/lbs ON THE DYNO on a 1g Turbo DSM from a grounding kit.

Haven't done the mod, YET, but I plan on it :D
 
Originally posted by gritsak


ive got a sealed battery (optima red top).../B]


351trunk_mount.jpg
 
I plan on doing the relocation, my system draws a lot of amps, it shuts off momentarily every time the car goes to idle. The amplifier is in the trunk so I figure the shorter power cable would solve the problem. I will use a light, small dry cell battery, such as one of these.

http://co.dsm.org/users/jake/DSM/projects/dynabatt/index.shtml

http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm

http://www.gotbatteries.com/search.asp

I read years ago that the best battery relocation wire is the aluminum cable that is used for welder leads. I never researched it, so maybe someone can respond.
 
Originally posted by jdmawd


351trunk_mount.jpg

do you have any problems getting through tech at the track with that? i know at the hillybilly tracks around me they wouldnt even notice, but at a real event?
 
Originally posted by gritsak


do you have any problems getting through tech at the track with that? i know at the hillybilly tracks around me they wouldnt even notice, but at a real event?

i ran the car like this at MIR about a month ago they never even noticed:p
 
Originally posted by bigfoot ...
I read years ago that the best battery relocation wire is the aluminum cable that is used for welder leads. I never researched it, so maybe someone can respond. [/B]

Actually the best conductor of electricity would be gold. It is too expensive to use it for cables and wires. Second best would be silver cables and wires but that again isn't very practical due to cost. Third best conductor would be the tried, true, and cheaper copper. Aluminum would suck hardcore for electrical usage.
 
although copper is better, aluminum is a good conductor of electricity and is used in main feeds to houses

i think welding cable would be a good idea
 
I just used the shit that came in the relocation kit box. I didn't know it requires this much discussion to relocate a battery.
 
Did a search about aluminum vs. copper. Aluminum's conductivity is 60% of copper. Weighs 50% less, and costs 1.50 vs. 2.50 / ln.ft.
Since you have to run 40% thicker cable( 2 ga. instead of 4), the weight savings isn't all that huge. And the wire being thicker is harder to run. But it will be much cheaper. So you can save some money and a few pounds with aluminum.
 
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