Battery relocation [Merged 3-8]

[Jst4Cyl]

I have mine fused only once which is mounted back by the battery in the back. I used an inline fuse from walmart and 4ga wire and a Ebay distribution block. BTW, that is a 40 amp fuse in there I have since switched to a 100 amp.

Here are a few pics. I haven't got any finished pics of the distribution block but I'll try and take a few if needed.

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[DsmDave95]

^nice^

 

[Talesin]

No, you need more than just one if you're going to do it the way I intend to. The line for the starter is un-fused as far as I know, and under the hood (on a 1G anyway) you have three fusible links on the positive battery terminal block. So I'll need at least four outputs, three accepting either blade or tube style fuses and one with a solid bar (for un-fused operation).

I'm not using a fuse, I'm using a 150A automotive circuit breaker (complete with button-trip disconnect), with ring terminal screw-downs on the in and out. The 0-gauge wire goes into one side via screw-down clamp (though I have crimp-on ring terminals, I do not have a crimping tool). The other is a 3' Autozone battery cable, with a brass battery terminal clamp on one end, and a simple ring terminal on the other end.
Have the breaker hidden behind a plastic kick-panel where the stock scissor-jack used to sit. If I'm worried about leaving the car somewhere for a while, I just reach in and push the button to cut the battery... resetting the radio settings is a minor hassle for peace of mind in knowing my car isn't going to be stolen without the help of a flatbed.

 

[Jst4Cyl]

^nice^

Thanks, hope to get a cage sometime over the winter. I plan on giving it a spray on liner that I got from Autozone. Lookng to give it a Rhino Liner texture without the price . I'm not looking forward to masking everything off though

 

[surgeon_general]

I relocated my battery to the hatch on my car. However, I'm concerned with safety ...after I drive the car around haha. Now saying that, I have a cut-off switch I wanted to install but driving around with a knob on the back of the car makes me feel a little stupid since I dont run 9's! haha I might mount it on the inside for now.

The main problem I have is I want to install a major fuse or breaker, whatever you want to call it, i'm not too electrical. I have no idea what kind of amps I should search for, Id imagine slightly on the bigger side would not hurt. I just dont like the idea of if my main battery cable shorting out along the body somewhere and turning my battery into a welder or explode or what have you.

So I know someone is smart and wants to fill me in on what kinda amps the car pulls. I want to finalize this so i can solder all my connections up.

If there is a Vfaq for write up on this, Im sorry I didnt find it.

 

[99gst_racer]

Read through this thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234924

It's all about battery relocation, shut-off switches, and breakers.

 

[housegsx]

All I was going to do was pull up the edge of the carpet to see where to run my power cable for the battery. Then, with the help of a light buzz, things got out of hand and I started ripping things out of the car.

I removed the rear seats and latches, privacy cover, rear seat belts, a big black steel chunk of garbage, spare tire, all the sound deadener, carpet padding, the passenger side foot rest panels along with the abs control module, battery tray, etc. That should add up to a decent amount. I also already have the a/c, cruise control, balance shafts, and charcoal canister out.

This car is going to be a fun weekend street car/autox/hpde car. All I'm looking for now is a nice set of Evo wheels.

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[Jst4Cyl]

God you make me proud.

A/C is over rated anyways the only thing you need in there from the front seats back is a roll cage

This is how they should have come from the factory anyways.

EDIT: Sorry I thought I had inspired you to do this. It was another guy that gave the compliment . http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=272918

 

[Zero Bar]

Looks like fun, it's amazing how much little stuff is in the car that can quickly trim the weight down.

Make sure to do a full loop with the battery, it makes the car hard to start if you don't run the ground back to the engine bay and it caused me to go through a couple of ecu's.

 

[housegsx]

Make sure to do a full loop with the battery

I was originally going to do this, but I was told by many people in other threads not to route the negative back up to the front and the shortest ground is the best. I was planning on grounding it where the rear seat belt latches were.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

I was originally going to do this, but I was told by many people in other threads not to route the negative back up to the front and the shortest ground is the best. I was planning on grounding it where the rear seat belt latches were.

Why not just run 2 grounds???

 

[housegsx]

^I've heard not to do that as well. Although I don't see how there could be any harm, just added expense for cable.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

^I've heard not to do that as well. Although I don't see how there could be any harm, just added expense for cable.

is there an expert that can explain why this would be a bad idea???

 

[snowborder714]

I would also be interested in hearing the best way to do this as I plan on relocating the battery soon.

 

[housegsx]

Here is the thread where I mentioned running the negative back to the front and a few people disagreed with me. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261161

I will probably just use 1 ground near the battery. In fact I think I will be using the bolt where the rear seat belt latches were.

 

[iluvmy4g63]

rule of thumb with electric. never to many grounds. i work with it all day. think of a grounding kit for under the hood of your car. more is better. just make sure all your conections are tight and black taped up realy well.

 

[GS-T_Newboost]

ground one from the starter bolt to the strut tower the the one off the negative terminal to a good place in the trunk

 

[housegsx]

I have finally ordered all the stuff I need for the relocation.
I have ordered 30 feet of 1/0 cable. 15ft red/15ft black. I also got some ring terminal lugs and I ordered battery post terminals from Summit. They are the screw-on compression type and they accept the 1/0 cable.
I also ordered this JL distribution block. A bit more expensive than I wanted to go, but exactly what I'm looking for. http://www.expeditionexchange.com/jlaudio/jlaudio007%20006.jpg

I am also running a 150amp fuse and holder off of the battery that I picked up at waytekwire
http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/220_078.PDF

This should be everything I need to complete the project. I'll have pics once I get it completed.

 

[thegchild04]

nice the block looks just like mine, good job

 

[housegsx]

nice the block looks just like mine, good job

Where did you get yours? I ordered mine from the link I posted but just received an email from them that they will be on backorder for 2 weeks. I can't find anywhere else that has them. I may have try try to find a different one.

 

[thegchild04]

got it local

 

[JFZERO ECLIPSE]

I'd hate to post up another battery relocation thread but I can't seem to find the infomation I'm looking for.....

I'm planning on buying about 25 ft worth of 0/1 power cable for future battery relocation use and would like to be able to install it at this point in time but not tie it in yet....Due to car being totally gutted due to cleaning and replacing broken/missing parts...

Now for the distribution block under the hood

1. What size fuses would be needed
2. How many outlets
3. What's best style of fuse (blade anl or round agu)

Under the hood is completely gutted and all wiring is removed at this presant time...


Also what size circuit breaker should be used that will be within 18" of the battery?

As I plan on going overkill with the relocation and putting in another fuse right next to the battery what size should I plan on getting ???



Sorry again the the millionth report of this thread but I rather be over informed than just wing-it.....Jim

 

[alex99gst]

I run a 150A circuit breaker but I have heard of people using 200. IIRC there are 3 things that connect to the positive terminal, so I used a 1-4 distribution block. I didn't run any fuses since it would still be fused from the factory. 25 feet of wiring seems overkill. You can have 1ft of grounding cable and maybe 15 for the positive wire. I grounded my battery in the hatch area. Measure your car and see how much you really need.

 

[BoostedTalonTS]

Can't comment on the 2g needs for the fuses, but I would STRONGLY RECOMMEND that you stay FAR AWAY from any AGU style fuses... The fuses themselves are a total POS! These things are basically a cold-soldered element that usually will not make a good connection with either end cap of the AGU fuse. I can't tell you how many of these that I've come across in the car audio industry that looked good, ohmed out good (continuity test), but once you put any load on them they do weird sh*t.

I would recommend that you go with either a 200-300 amp breaker or ANL at the battery and use MAXI style fuses for the circuit-specific distribution up front... good thing about the MAXI & ANL fuses is that they are all made from 1 solid conductor... No cold solder joints in the end caps to worry about.

I'd also recommend that you make two runs with your 0/1... 1 for + and 1 for -. I wouldn't trust your entire electrical system to the factory spot welds in the unibody construction to conduct anything, much less serve as the ground plane for EVERYTHING.

 

[housegsx]

Well I finally got the rewire done. Yay! What a bi***. Here's some pics of the relocation using the parts I listed.

All i have to do is figure out the tie down.

I grounded the battery using the big bolt for the rear seatbelt latch and continued the ground up to the engine bay.

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Here's the battery with the fuse block off to the left.

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I came through the firewall here and grounded the main cable and the other ground cable from the transmission with a bolt where the battery tray used to be.

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Here's the JL power block where the main power cable comes in and goes off to the starter and the fuse box.

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Let me know what you think.