Battery relocation [Merged 3-8]

[turbosax2]

Thought you might be interested in these:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...12420/p-2012420/N-111+10214+600010589/c-10114

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/...fp/SFV/30046/vpid/1333029/vpcsid/0/rid/118099

 

[bmoha2]

When I relocated mine I used alot of stuff from american's audio dept. The stuff is expensive but works well and mounts cleanly.

 

[bmoha2]

I know I know battery relocate has been done to death. Probably so too has fuel pump rewire. This is for a 2G.
I already did the fuel pump relocate. Now I'm kinda wondering and scratching my head a bit as I look at the Vfaq for doing the fuel pump rewire. I though I was kinda going to be ahead of the curve since my battery is now located much closer to the fuel pump but now I'm thinking I'm a little hosed. Especially considering that since the fuel pump relay that provides juice to the fuel pump is in the engine bay. Seems kinda like twice as much wiring to do it now. I guess I could just tie it in where the 0 gauge wire I ran forward into the engine bay to pickup the stock wiring harness ends. And then run a new larger gauge wire back to the fuel pump for the rewire. But I would rather figure out a way to run directly from the battery to the fuel pump with larger gauge wire. There would have to be a fuse of course. What voltage is the fuel pump getting from the fuel pump relay? As it sits now the fuel pump turns on when the key is turned to the first position. I guess if I want to keep it functioning the same I would have to go thru the stock fuel pump relay that is part of the stock main fuse panel in the engine bay passenger side. Wouldn't be able to skip it. I could wire it to a switch set in the dash that I would manually switch on or off but by that point I would pretty much already have run quite a bit of wire and still lose the key function. Thoughts? ideas?

 

[housegsx]

What do you guys think about some of this JL audio stuff? It looks real nice but some of it is a little expensive. The third item down looks like a nice clean dist box. The terminals look really nice too but $60 a piece is a bit much.
Will 2awg be large enough for a 15 foot power wire?

https://www.expeditionexchange.com/jlaudio/

 

[snowborder714]

I already did the fuel pump relocate.

Did you mean to say something else? Maybe battery relocation?

Especially considering that since the fuel pump relay that provides juice to the fuel pump is in the engine bay.

Why is your fuel pump relay in the engine bay? Did you follow the VFAQ to rewire the fuel pump? If so, it would've told you to put it under the back seat right next to the fuel tank cover.

As it sits now the fuel pump turns on when the key is turned to the first position.

Um, I don't think this should happen. Rewiring a fuel pump should not do this. This isn't safe either.

If you rewired your fuel pump, the relay, as I stated before, should be right on top of the fuel tank cover that's under the back seat. If you are looking for a way to rewire this because you relocated your battery, just run the power cable to the trunk instead of to the engine bay. Maybe I'm not quite understanding your situation and question.

It would be easier if you stated your question right out. That was a really long post (and I'm not complaining, but sometimes it just seemed like you were 'thinking out loud') and it might help some of use to have a quick and dirty version.

 

[92awddsm]

I know I know battery relocate has been done to death. Probably so too has fuel pump rewire. This is for a 2G.
I already did the fuel pump relocate. Now I'm kinda wondering and scratching my head a bit as I look at the Vfaq for doing the fuel pump rewire. I though I was kinda going to be ahead of the curve since my battery is now located much closer to the fuel pump but now I'm thinking I'm a little hosed. Especially considering that since the fuel pump relay that provides juice to the fuel pump is in the engine bay. Seems kinda like twice as much wiring to do it now. I guess I could just tie it in where the 0 gauge wire I ran forward into the engine bay to pickup the stock wiring harness ends. And then run a new larger gauge wire back to the fuel pump for the rewire. But I would rather figure out a way to run directly from the battery to the fuel pump with larger gauge wire. There would have to be a fuse of course. What voltage is the fuel pump getting from the fuel pump relay? As it sits now the fuel pump turns on when the key is turned to the first position. I guess if I want to keep it functioning the same I would have to go thru the stock fuel pump relay that is part of the stock main fuse panel in the engine bay passenger side. Wouldn't be able to skip it. I could wire it to a switch set in the dash that I would manually switch on or off but by that point I would pretty much already have run quite a bit of wire and still lose the key function. Thoughts? ideas?

You need to restudy the fp rewire procedure. All you do is cut the original power wire at the pump. You then install another relay in the area of the fuel pump. The power wire is then run from the battery to the relay, from the relay to the hot wire going to the pump that you previously cut. Now the other end of the cut wire from the original relay will now be used as the switch wire to energize the new relay. And of course, the ground wire of the relay will go to a good chassis ground. There is no need at all to run any other wire to or from the front of the car.

 

[DsmDave95]

i found a write up for you from a buddy of mine chris, this is what im going to do to my car when i get a chance http://www.sr20forum.com/technical-information-library/143515-battery-relocation-writeup.html
look how much money he spent no need to buy a pricey kit
good luck
D

 

[housegsx]

Nice, thanks. It seems like car audio stuff is the way to go. You'd think places like Summit would have their own "race" versions of these products.

 

[bmoha2]

I actually printed this out the other day and was looking at it trying to plan it out at work. Turns out my computer died recently, did a new hard drive and then a whole new os. I did not have the correct driver in for my printer and it cropped off the pic that had the 30 amp relay in it completely did nto print about half of the vfaq. Left me scratching my head not realizing I wasn't looking at the complete vfaq. That's for your feedback guys. It didn't even print the whole page involving the new relay right at the fuel pump. Whoops sorry again. It is a lot clearer now.

 

[bmoha2]

Thanks for your post wiseman. Makes it very clear now. Seems pretty simple now. A appreciate your help.

 

[Zmann42087]

I just received my Forced Performance fuel pump rewire kit and I'll be installing it first thing tomorrow.

Anyways, I've been reading over a couple good "how to" articles that I found. Just thought I'd share them...

Road/Race fuel pump tech tips
Raktron fuel pump rewire
Forced Performance FPRK install

 

[bmoha2]

A little differently. Any preferences?

 

[bmoha2]

I had an friend with a lot of car audio experience look at my intended setup. He was saying to run one 0 gauge wire or two 4gauge wires. The battery relocation kit I got from Summit came with a single 2 gauge wire. I questioned it so I ran a second 2 gauge with it.
I got a stinger three connector in the engine bay and put two Stinger 60 amp fuses on the passenger side inside strut tower plastic cladding. Then ran two 2 gauges wires from the fuses to the battery terminated them on the battery with a Stinger post. All of the connectors terminate with screw down Allen key bolts. I even tossed around the idea of soldering the wires into the connectors. I never got around to it. Two 2 gauge wires might me overkill but seems to work fine. I laid them out on the floor of the garage and made sure that I cut them exactly the same length and taped them together except for where the passed thru seperate holes in the firewall.

 

[Zmann42087]

I'll be following the Forced Performance write-up as I have their fuel pump relay kit.

However, It sounds like you're doing this without buying a rewire kit (which is fine.. it'll actually save you some money) in which case I'd follow the Raktron article. Thats a pretty good article if you're planning on a DIY fuel pump rewire as it shows you what you need as far as materials and has plenty of helpful pictures for an easy install.

 

[thegchild04]

Get her done...

I used JL Audio stuff; wire, distribution block, fuse, terminal ends. I ended up spending too much money on something so simple but I looks nice and clean and that's always number one.

 

[InfiniteGSX]

<img src="http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/8427/1000033tx7.jpg" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us"/><br/>By <a target="_new" href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/nfiniti">nfiniti</a>, shot with <a target="_new" href="http://profile.imageshack.us/camerabuy.php?model=KODAK+EASYSHARE+CX7300+DIGITAL+CAMERA&make=EASTMAN+KODAK+COMPANY">KODAK EASYSHARE CX7300 DIGITAL CAMERA</a> at 2007-08-18
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Not done yet. Replacing the cables with Monster 0 Gauge and installing a rear Battery VM next to the battery, and a fan in the vent above it. Just incase.

 

[housegsx]

Thanks guys for the suggestions.
thegchild04, I like how you have it mounted down low in the tire well. I was thinking about putting mine there as there doesn't seem to be any other flat surface large enough to mount it to back there. Do you just keep your spare tire on the floor in the back now? Or carry some plugs and a pump or tire goo stuff?

 

[bmoha2]

How do you hold it down? I put my battery directly under my rear strut tower brace on the passenger side. I fabbed an aluminum sheet that is drectly bolted into the frame/unibody of the car. It uses two of the plastic brackets that come with the Optima batteries to keep it in place that bolt thru the aluminum sheet and then also has two long bolts with an aluminum crossbar that bolts/ ties down the battery itself. Maybe again overkill but that sucker is heavy and I didn't want it going anywhere.

 

[DsmDave95]

house gsx i doubt he caries a spare ( i dont z), and where i plan to mount my battery is on the left side above where the dip for the spare tire goes, but im going to be using a small light weight cell battery.

 

[bmoha2]

What is the purpose of the second relay in the daktron config or a new seperate relay in the FP config? I see the Daktron uses a 30amp relay and the FP kit uses a 40amp kit. Why? I thought the problem with the fuel pump wiring was the size of the wiring. Couldn't you splice in a new thicker gauge right where it comes outof the main fuse box under the hood and run it all the way back to the fuel pump, just replacing the single wire?

 

[thegchild04]

Yea I don't carry a spare only my AAA card. I mounted it like that for a little more safety because that old bracket kind of acts like a brace incase of a front end accident that big old optima doesn't rip out and hit me in the head . I put it as close as possible to the passenger side to corner weight it from the driver.

 

[thegchild04]

If you look at the other ghetto battery relocation thread going on in the bolt-on section of this forum you can see that one kid put this battery in the far corner of the passenger side trunk. That is the best "location" for the battery but you can clearly see that you can't fit NHRA legal battery box in that spot with the stock plastics. If he ever showed up to a track like the ones near me he would never pass tech inspections.

 

[housegsx]

Yeah, I've seen where other people put it. I'm going to place it in the tire well but without a box. I don't plan on drag racing, moreless autox, hpde, etc where boxes aren't required.

 

[Talesin]

Dont forget to fuse/breaker the battery side, in case the wire insulation wears through over the years, so if it grounds to the body you won't have a car fire or a toasted battery.
I'm using 0-gauge for my own rewire, a 150A automotive breaker, and a pair of brass 3' Autozone replacement battery cables with ring terminals on the far end.

Still want to get a proper power distribution box though, and cut/rewire the stock battery fusible link holder to proper fuses. Have a buddy who can get me a 0-in, five individual out (with one unfused for the starter), but it's a Stinger.. which does look kinda cheap now that you mention it, along with being rather overpriced.

Also, 'ghetto' as it may be, on the 1Gs there's a perfect spot in the passenger rear corner of the trunk to mount a battery box/tie-down, if you pry off the retaining hooks for the OEM 'toolkit' and toss the pressboard trunk-floor. Just have the latter for mine, as it's an Odyssey dry-cell (which don't off-gas, the entire reason for requiring the box.. don't want hydrogen filling the passenger cabin!) but NHRA doesn't make any specific exemption for non-gassing, fully sealed batteries. Pain in the butt.

 

[housegsx]

Dont forget to fuse/breaker the battery side.

I know I need to fuse the battery. What kind of fuse holder did you use and where did you find it? To match your 0-gauge wire.
Also, where did you find battery terminals to accept that large of a wire? Did you expensive car audio type terminals?

Still want to get a proper power distribution box though, and cut/rewire the stock battery fusible link holder to proper fuses.

Does this block look ok? http://www.expeditionexchange.com/cart/product.php?productid=19567&cat=385&page=1
They also have ones with more outputs, but I just need 1 to go to the starter and 1 to the alternator, correct? I haven't really gotten into it under the hood yet.

Thanks for your help.