Battery relocation [Merged 3-8]

[housegsx]

Well I've taken some of your advice and finally finished up the rewire. Thanks for the suggestions guys!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/272918-battery-relocation-terminal-type-size-distribution-block-other-qs.html

 

[architechnik]

Good, god, man! That must have been one hell of a buzz. I want some of what you had

The electrical will always take the path of least resistance and with a direct cable of adequate gage the low restriction will allow for as much juice to return as could push through those positive wires. In short, ground that baby as much as possible with as large a wires as financially feasible.

Oh, btw, is that a spot for a second gas pump or what? 2g's got it made for doubling up.

 

[TSG59_Steve]

What are you holding the battery down with?

 

[housegsx]

I am planning on boxing the bottom of the battery in with some simple angle iron welded to the body. That will keep it from sliding left to right. Then I have some heavy duty threaded rod I will mount behind and in front of the battery and bolt the tie-down on to those.
Does that seem acceptable? I couldn't think of a better way.

 

[Talesin]

Holy crap those are some thick-ass cables. From the pictures, they look around an inch in diameter, compared to the battery... is this just an optical illusion, or do you really have those pythons running through the car?!

 

[housegsx]

They are pretty thick 1/0. Certainly not 1 inch diameter though.

I just got done rewiring the new walbro 255 fuel pump directly to the battery as well.

 

[DsmDave95]

nice, i like what i see i like where you ran the ground cable threw the firewall and grounded it in the bay, have you thought of going with a 3or4 way distribution box so you could wire in other things.

 

[housegsx]

have you thought of going with a 3or4 way distribution box so you could wire in other things.

Thanks. I wanted the 4 output block, but they were out at the time. I cant believe I paid $40 for this block though, It's a major piece of junk, but I guess it gets the job done.

 

[DsmDave95]

for now ? my plans is to run a fw of the accesories one is going to be for gauge lights, boost controller, meth inj, you get my point

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Pics of fuse box relocation please.

 

[Project2G]

Pics of fuse box relocation please.

+1

And if you could do a write up that would be great. I would be interested in doing the same thing or similar.

 

[Gamble97]

Man I totally forgot I did this thread.
I'm at work so here is the quick rundown:
I got an extra wire harness actually 2 of them, one from a jaguar and one from a kia

I don't have any pictures of the kia harness because I was just barely short and I got them both for free. So to start you can see the box of the jaguar harness. I cut off all the connectors and cut them into about 5ft sections and wrapped them nicely so I didn't loose them. The reasoning for me to get 2 other harness's was because 1) it was free and 2) I wanted to keep the same gauge wire as stock.
So this is what I started off with:

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Then this

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And btw, taking off all that old tape and whatnot your hands will get very very stickly so wear gloves. Also any wire that I found that was tapped into 2 wires or more, I cut and got rid of. I wanted full length unmolested wires to work with.

Guys please forgive me some pics are on my home pc, but I do believe I had a thread on dsmtalk (with more pics) with a write up. Anywho going forward.

IMPORTANT: Unbolt the fuse box and make room to view all wiring coming into there. Label EVERY wire. 1 & 1, 2 & 2 etc. One label at the top and one at the bottom. I used masking tape and a black sharpy marker.

NO TURNING BACK NOW: Then you will CUT inbetween the labels so you know what goes where.

I then started with wire 1 and say it was a 16g wire, I found a 16g wire in my collection from the jaguar harness and stripped/soldered/heatshrank/and wrapped up in black tape to the fuse box side ONLY. To me it didn't matter if the colors matched it was the gauge that's important. Move onto the next etc etc etc. I sat on my couch in the living room doing this. Also, between the 2 harness I still didn't have enough wire and had to go buy some. The kia harness was almost useless because it was all 16-18-20g wire, where the mitsu was 10,12,14,16

ANOTHER IMPORTANT NOTE: After you have soldered the new extension wire onto the stock wire make a NEW label and put that at the end of the wire.

All the white wires I wired into a 8g amp wire I had laying around and put a ring terminal on it.

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Ok next, put your fuse box where you want it and run all your wires through the grommet on the passenger side firewall and mind you this is a VERY VERY tight fit. I used coax cable and a lot of tape and pulled like a MOFO, it took a few tries but I got it through.

Now match your NEW label to the labels on the end of the car and start your soldering. Mind you I had to go to the store about 10-20 times for this project because I kept running out of wire, heatshrink, butane, smokes and beer (for some of you)

This is the halfway point more or less

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Final Product:

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I still haven't secured it down completely but another few things I did, was before I ran it through the firewall, I wrapped the whole harness up in electrical tape twice just so nothing gets pinched. Now by doing that, I did have a label or 2 fall off and I was able to figure out what went where by the gauge wire and how I used some of them the same color where I was able to. Double check all your fuses, start her up and pray she works. I didn't have any problems, but I double/triple checked everything.

Basically it's not a hard project but it is VERY time consuming and could be kinda hard on your back. Good thing my car was low enough to the ground so when I bent over to solder it wasn't that bad.

If you have any questions shoot me a pm or email.
Also, here is my link to my photobucket if you want to see more pics, I will try to upload some more soon.

pportuese - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

 

[Gamble97]

Oh also, that is masking tape that I put over my glovebox, it will be in and out of your car so you don’t want to scratch it.

I almost forgot, here is the DOWNSIDE to doing this. All the wires that I wrapped up so tightly, are hard to move so it’s not very flexible and if you look under the pass side dash you can see the wires, but if your not looking for them you can not see them. Another downside is under the hood after you wire it all up and wrap it all up, it’s hard to hide. If you take off the intake pipe you can see but I have mine hidden under there so its not noticeable.

One last tip when you are done, that plastic loom stuff, I bought some 0 gauge loom from a sound shop for $1.50 for a few feet and wrapped it all up so it doesn’t look bad.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Wow thank you for such a great reply, It definatly helped out alot with all the questions that I would have asked. I have the entire car ripped apart right now and am respraying the enginebay, So I figured now would be a great time to do this while i'm building the car. I did it on my srt-4, But not to this extent. I actually still kept the fuse box there, Which I'm glad because the car is just sitting in my garage now and I kinda lost interest in it as soon as I started this 2.3 stroker 2g gsx project

 

[EDM95]

I always wondered if you could just unbolt the fuse box and move it with out cuting wires.
I guess not. Looks good so far. Now lets see the pic of the engine bay.

 

[2geclipse565]

+1 on a pic of the engine bay! Thats what im most curious about.

 

[Gamble97]

My gf's camera broke, so as soon as I find mine I'll snap a pic.

 

[Blageo23]

Dont want to steel your thread but if people are looking for a different way to do this here it is.
80% of the wires fromt he fuse box go under the radiator, along the driver side fender and enter the car on the driver side. long story short I ran the wires inside the car instead of outside, and rewired the WHOLE engine bay. If you want more info you can PM me.

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[EDM95]

Blageo23;151347640]Dont want to steel your thread but if people are looking for a different way to do this here it is.
80% of the wires fromt he fuse box go under the radiator, along the driver side fender and enter the car on the driver side. long story short I ran the wires inside the car instead of outside, and rewired the WHOLE engine bay. If you want more info you can PM me.[/HTML]


So you are saying you ran your wires through the drive side door.
Are you not worried that when you open and close the door you will pinch the wires?

 

[Blageo23]

So you are saying you ran your wires through the drive side door.
Are you not worried that when you open and close the door you will pinch the wires?

NO NO NO, There is a hole behind the fender that the factory wires go through, that is the hole I used

 

[bowtiebuba350]

are there any other holes to run the wire through?

 

[mitch26753]

moving the fuse box looks like a whole lot more work then its worth? i know the intercooler pipes can get in the way? wouldn't it just be easier to move the battery to the trunk and put the fuse box where the battery was? thats running one wire compared to like 200 ?

 

[EDM95]

moving the fuse box looks like a whole lot more work then its worth? i know the intercooler pipes can get in the way? wouldn't it just be easier to move the battery to the trunk and put the fuse box where the battery was? thats running one wire compared to like 200 ?

Yes it is alot of work. Most people like to have a clean looking engine bay thats why they do this mod.

 

[Blageo23]

The way it looks out weighs the time it took to do it. It looks 100000X better and with the battery in the trunk too, I LOVE the way it looks and dont regret spending a crapload of time on it at all.

 

[Gamble97]

Sorry, I forgot about the pic. Here is a pic without my intake in, I'm in the middle of a boost leak test.

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