2G AWD Conversion/Swap Guys Enter Here - Advanced. [Merged 2-07]

[tehehodi]

What size bolts did you use for the gas tank strap bolts?

 

[Peepers]

The main GST harness should have 7 wires

FUEL (left side of the connector)
Yellow - fuel gauge
Black - ground
Yellow w/Blue - low level light

ABS (Right Side of the connector)
Yellow w/Red - Rear Left wheel
Grey w/Red - Rear Left Wheel
Yellow w/Blue - Rear Right Wheel
Grey w/Blue - Rear Right Wheel

FYI - you shouldn't have to do anything to the ABS wires as they should be plug and play (as long as you were originally equiped with ABS)

 

[eclipsh]

Some of those colors of wires aren't the same as mine, My parts are both from 2ga talons...interesting. I think i got it wired right though. What do i do about teh grey/red wire and the other ones from the GST harness, is that just abs hookups?

Yes, those should be the ABS wires.

 

[tehehodi]

I'm removing abs so I have no worries then. Thank you for confirming the colors

 

[Gstclipse69]

Guys I am having a hard time getting my fuel gauge to do anything. Currently I have it wired as per 99gst's diagram and vfaq. I'm not getting anything from it. I have looked at Peepers diagram and I have verified that my awd 2nd sender unit only has 2 wires coming from it: yellow and yellow/black.

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My car is/was a 99 gst. The donor car was a 95 talon. The connector on the 2nd sender unit has a place for 4 wires however only two are there. Would it be possible to insert two wires in the connector as to try to replicate Peeper's diagram? Or is there even another two wires on the opposing side of the connector/ on the sending unit? Why would the connector have 4 places for wires and only two coming out?

Another thing to run by you guys. I see from the posts above that the yellow/red, yellow/blue, grey/red, grey/blue wires are for abs. I was wondering about those. On my gst harness there is a 3 wire connector that is black, green, and blue.

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What is this? Is it the abs connector on the fwd harness? Im sorry if this is beating the subject to death but I have been screwing around with this gauge for quite some time with no luck. If I have overlooked anything please let me know.

 

[Scrymerr]

3 wire conector is your fuel tank pressure sensor.This sensor came on 98-99 D33A and D32A
95-97 DSM cars don't have them.

 

[Gstclipse69]

3 wire conector is your fuel tank pressure sensor.This sensor came on 98-99 D33A and D32A
95-97 DSM cars don't have them.

Thats why I keep getting that cel!

Yea I took my time on the cut.

 

[AlphaVision]

I am having some trouble with the driver side half shaft. I have a 6 bolt block and there is only 1 hole for the half shaft carier bearing. I will try to make a metal plate that will bolt on the AC bracket and the secont half shaft carier bearing bolt will be bolted to it. Any other ideas?


***EDIT***
Nevermind. I found out that I will have to get the AC bracket from the '97 donor

 

[TSi999]

Hey guys does anyone know an exact size of the 2g AWD subframe bolts? The grade 10 bolts I am using are a hair smaller than the holes so there is some free play. The car drives great with not much noise but I wanted to get these perfect. I was even thinking of having a machine shop make some sleeves for the grade 10 bolts I have been using but if someone knows the exact size that would be so much easier. Mabye I can order some in the correct size. Thanks!

 

[Gstclipse69]

I am not sure of the exact size. What do you mean by some free play? On the subframe bolts? Are the bolts you have metric thread? There shouldnt be any play on the subframe bolts, Im sure that would not be good. If I had to take a guess I would think something like m12 something but I would definitely do some searching to find out exactly what they are.

 

[TSi999]

I am not sure of the exact size. What do you mean by some free play? On the subframe bolts? Are the bolts you have metric thread? There shouldnt be any play on the subframe bolts, Im sure that would not be good. If I had to take a guess I would think something like m12 something but I would definitely do some searching to find out exactly what they are.

Thanks for the reply! Yes they are metric thread and they are just about probably a couple mm thinner than the subframe bolt holes in the chassis. When they are not tightened down you have some range of motion inside the bolt holes. I printed out a chart from boltdepot.com. I may just have to measure the subframe holes since the rear diff. is out of the car to get the TRE EVO III LSD upgrade done.

 

[gofer]

Thanks for the reply! Yes they are metric thread and they are just about probably a couple mm thinner than the subframe bolt holes in the chassis. When they are not tightened down you have some range of motion inside the bolt holes. I printed out a chart from boltdepot.com. I may just have to measure the subframe holes since the rear diff. is out of the car to get the TRE EVO III LSD upgrade done.

im not sure if you ever got this taken care of but i saw your post and thought id help. i have a set of AWD subframe bolts bagged up in my closet so i pulled one out quick and measured it for you. since you were talking about freeplay when you drop them in i figured you meant width so i took a pic... there exactly .5" or half an inch (however you wannt put it)

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[TSi999]

Thanks so much gofer! Still waiting to get back my rear diff. so I haven't gotten the bolts yet. Yeah I have been using 1/2" bolts but I think 9/16ths will fit better back there.

 

[nuclearr]

Ok I am in the middle of my awd swap on my 96 spyder. I have a donor 95 tsi awd. I have pulled out the tank and sub-frame from the spyder.

The one thing as far as the parts go that is unclear is the upper rear control arms. Must I use the control arm on the awd? The reason I ask is the awd has 260,000 miles my spyder only has 140,000, and the bushings are shot on the awd.

 

[99gst_racer]

The control arms are the same on each, so use the nicer ones. I kept my '99 arms too, because they were in much better shape.

 

[nuclearr]

what about the traling arms I have not check the ones on the awd yet but I bet they are not in good shape.

 

[nuclearr]

OK I have welded in the rear drive shaft mount and put in the tank. I did not have to weld anything to get the tank bolts in all I had to do was take some 20 gage piano wire and wrap the bolts and fish them trough. I recommend this rather thank cutting any metal to get them in.

I am now working on the new front sub frame bolts. Why is it that every one seem to be just dropping in a bolt with a cut and welded washer to keep it from turning? Wouldn't this process allow the frame channel to flex side to side when making hard turns like in autocross or road rally? I know the frame is partially boxed around the holes.

I think I may have a solution to the problem.
option 1: Cut the side out of the frame rail and weld in some plates to box it in. Then weld the hole shut and add a plate to the outside of the frame rail I cut out.
option 2: Fill the frame rail with structural foam.

Opinions are welcome. Also who has been racing there converted cars with out any reinforcements to the frame channel. Have you noticed any metal fatigue around the channels spot welds?

 

[AlphaVision]

Well my english terminology isn't that good, but I think I made mine using option 1. I cut some square tube (we call it profile over here) and made somethinc like caps. So they hold the bolt tight to the chassis

Here is a picture. I don't have pictures of it installed ( i get so much into work that I forget to take pictures )

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[nuclearr]

Thats a good Idea for keeping the bolt from turning.

But not what I am referring to. I am more worried about the flex in the frame rail. On the awd the bolt seem to be to more of the top of the frame channel with a tube for the bolt to run though to help strengthen the frame rail. By having two points the frame rail is less likely to flex.

If I could drop a bolt form the top this would be a non issue and would have already fabed up some structural support. Since I am a convertible and can not access the point where the bolt can be dropped from the topside.

Some of you may think I am over thinking this but when your father is an engineer it comes natural.

 

[daren_p]

what about the traling arms I have not check the ones on the awd yet but I bet they are not in good shape.

Yes, their the same as well.

 

[fastclip]

Okay, so we are stuck on one axle. We got everything fabbed, so we went to go stick everything in. Shoved the driver side axle in, click and slide in no problem, went to slide in the passenger side and nope. This axle wont go in at all. Its like it is getting caught or snap ring wont go in.

Little about the swap. It is a 97 spyder gst 5spd with no ABS. The rear subframe came out of a 95 eagle talon. The Axle are from this donor car. Now the rear end is from the guy that is helping (StJoeTalon), we are using his because he is swapping to an auto, so we bought the donor car together. We stuck his rear end(one from donor) in and the axles slide in and clicked. The rear end that came out of the donor and that is now in his car says (not sure on big letter but I think it say BHB, it has an H I do now that) viscous lsd. The one from StJoeTalon car that is in the spyder now says, BFB 3.545, but his car has the orange sticker saying viscous lsd. So any tips, or is there a possibility that the rear end is a viscous and doesnt have the plate on it that says viscous??

I know that LSD and non-LSD axle wont work together after doing some research, but the thing that got me stumped is the fact that the driver side went in fine and that his axles went into the transfer case we put in his from the donor so out of 2 rear ends, 3 axles have went in. Just the one from the pass side of the spyder wont go in.

 

[black_gst]

do you have the correct axle on the correct side.. this happened to me once and i think i mixed up the axles and put them on the wrong sides. maybe someone else can comfirm which side the LSD axle goes on. the lsd is the one with the stepped down spline

 

[97GSTAT]

Just wondering on the driveshaft hangers. Would it be possible to just add studs to the exsisting FWD pieces? Looking at the pics they look structurely the same minus the studs and exhaust hangers. The main reason why I'm asking this is I have no donor car, and I'm thinking these pieces might be difficult to outsource. Also if I read correctly through this thread, everything minus the knuckle is interchangeable on the suspension and brakes? Thanks.

 

[99gst_racer]

Just wondering on the driveshaft hangers. Would it be possible to just add studs to the exsisting FWD pieces?

Yeah, that's exactly what I did on mine. They are indentical with the exception to the studs. You would still need to remove yours from your car to add the studs, but it's much easier realigning the original bracket as apposed to using one that is foreign to the car.

Also if I read correctly through this thread, everything minus the knuckle is interchangeable on the suspension and brakes? Thanks.

Correct.

 

[fastclip]

Black gst, hey yea come to find out his car didnt have the lsd in it, so we had to swap axles. Stupid mistake, but it is all done, well all the fab and rear subframe. Now it is welding the cross support in the truck and cleaning up the interior.

Also on a side note. The driver side quarter panel is not working. I checked the connector and it is getting 12V, when the up/down switch is pushed but no movement in the window. My question is, is the motor in the rear quarter panel the same as the windows on the door because I have an extra driver door that I could use?