Am I doing something wrong?

[RipperXX]

Ok so before I deployed I took my car with a blown HG to the track. Seeing as how I wouldn't even be state side for another year and a half I said #### it, why not. The car was not tuned and had a uncalibrated GM MAFT setup (DSMLink zeroed out pretty much) set for the FIC 750 injectors and little else.

ran a 13.9 in the 1/4, I think it may have a damaged intake valve as well. One reason for me thinking this is the vacume was way low and the car still has stock cams. (10-14 vac) it varried at idle sometimes it would idle at 10 sometimes 14. Oh and I was running 20-23psi on the earlier mentioned pass.


Ok I know the car was in bad shape but it's a long story. So, I just re-enlisted got a 13k bonus and I am thinking of having my old man rebuild the engine with Eagle H beam rods, Wiseco 8.3:1 pistons (0.20 over bore) have him do the BS elem. ACL tri-metal bearings and a lot of goodies on the head with a basically stock IM maybe try to port it to gasket match.

All I am shooting for here is flat 12's high 11's. It seems like others around me have got there on far less, but I always go over kill since I want it to be able to be beat on and still be my daily driver.


My goal is only 380whp on the Evo 16g. mods are listed in profile if anyone wants me too I will list the parts list for the rebuild.

I am a bit worried about my old man doing the rebuild though but it's about my easiest option since I am in Iraq and stationed in OK and the car is back in GA He has rebuilt countless GM v8's but never anything quite like this.




Just looking for advice and tips here, I already plan to dump the GM MAFT setup and go with a 2G MAF cause one I am tired of trying to calibrate the crap without a MAP sensor and I dont like the idea of it not being able to read the air intake temp... also don't want to have to re-tune it for winter vs summer. I just want the shit to be built tuned and thats it enjoy it for a damn change you know. No more fiddling. I know this is a long post, and I never seem to get that many responses so thanks for reading. I will gladly take an advice any experienced persons want to give me.


Oh yea budget for the engine rebuild is 5,000. Already has all new timing componets, & waterpump so I plan to re-use that stuff.

 

[xdxoxuxgx]

If it's advice on whether or not your dad should build your motor or not, that's pretty much up to you and how much faith you have in his skills. And if it's about the MAF decision, I don't have any experience with the GM MAF but from what I hear it seems to be a waste of time, unless you just want a loud BOV.

 

[Rob10_99]

Look into all your options for tuning, off the top of my head, AEM, dsmlink, Megasquirt, DSMap, rechip, tons of options.
Don't even think of an safc or going back to that maf setup if your looking to actually do something with the tune on your car. I would suggest AEM or DSmap/megasquirt for their speed density.
Make sure he uses the right torque specs with molylube and puts the rings on the right way/spacing.

 

[RipperXX]

If you look at my mods, I already have DSMLink.



I am mostly just looking for any tips out there from guys that have built there own engines. See thing is I could order a long block or a short block from one company and a head and call it good but that will cost about 5K as well but have less stuff done to it. But then again it may be assembled better so I duno. I am paranoid too so it's not helping, I should have faith in my old mans skills he's forgotten more shit than I will likely ever know about engines. It's just that this is a good chunk of change and a make it or break it sorta thing on finishing up a long time project. Which may never be 100% complete but at least the drive train would be!


But the build list far as parts I currently know I am going to order is bellow.

Eagle H beam rods
Wiseco 8.3:1 pistons (.20 over)
Ferrea valve stem seals
Ferrea valve locks
Supertech intake/exhaust valves (std)
BC Spring and Ti retainer kit
HKS 264/264 cams
new revised top line lifters
OEM mitsubishi engine overhaul gasket kit
ATI SuperDamper
ACL tri metal main and rod bearings
Magnus IM hear barrier gasket
Walbro 255LPH fuel pump (replace my 190lph)
Crank scraper (already have it but not sure I like the idea of using it)
Balance shaft elem kit

Duno what all else I will need, I am sure my old man can head to a dealership for any other new gaskets or seals that are needed.

The waterpump is fairly new and so are all the timing componets as mentioned earlier, I am also considering however a FFWD light weight crank I KNOW thats not needed but a engine that free revs fast is pleasing. And I am thinking about using the "other" harmonic damper thats out there since it's $100 cheaper but I sware I heard somewhere that it didn't come with something you need to install it. I figured I need this since I am changing the rods and pistons with parts of different weight.


I swear though if all this comes to gather like I hope this sob better run at least near a high 11 with the Evo 16g or im going to seriously be pissed.

 

[kahl23]

An engine is an engine. Building the longblock is the same for pretty much the same for every shape and type of engine (except a flathead). The balance shaft elimination kit is a little tricky if you don't know what you're doing, but there's a VFAQ to guide you through it. The only thing that is tough on the 4G63 is the timing setup. It is so easy to be off by a tooth. The only trick I have for you on that is that everything needs to be lined up perfectly, there's no such thing as close enough. When the cam gears are lined up properly, you can stick a phillips head screwdriver though the gap between the two inner gear marks and the tip of the screwdriver should touch the seam between the valve cover and the head, no higher and no lower. Good luck.

Edit: One thing I forgot, when using Wiseco pistons, some people have had issues with cracking the block. While a few theories were thrown out about what caused it, the fact that they were limited to Wiseco users seemed to indicate it was an issue with the pistons. In reality, the conclusion that a lot of people reached was that the motors were machined with clearances on the "tight" side of the Wiseco specs, which I don't know off the top of my head. So, when using Wisecos, tell your dad not to be too tight on the piston/block clearance. I believe this happened to Diambo4life here, so you might want to ask him the specifics. FWIW, a very, very similar setup to yours (Eagle/Wisecos, 16g, 'link) gave us 12.052@117mph and 374hp/389tq on 116 with a little more in it. High 11s are immanently reachable with good driving (something I lacked .

 

[RipperXX]

Well would you recommend a different piston? I mean sure I can tell him to try to get the clearance on the lose end fitting the pistons but if the pistons expand that much just thinking it may not be a good pick for a DD.

 

[kahl23]

Honestly my Wiseco's have lasted me through learning how to tune and conditions that stretched my ARP headstuds, so I would say stick with them, so long as whoever machines the block knows to double check the clearance between piston and block and make sure it isn't on the tight side of the Wiseco spec.