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just posting pics of an engine re build that i am doing

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1stGenRocks said:
that knock sensor is in the wrong hole. the hole you have it in is where the AC compressor bracket bolts in. it goes in the hole up top.
Or Not. Its in the correct hole. Look closer, just down and to the left of the knock sensor, you will see the hole for the ac bracket. It does not go in the hole up top. That hole can yeild exessive knock readings due to noise in the head.
 
Its in right. I have my ac bracket on and I moved my sensor tonight into this location. I have seen it installed in this place from a couple diffrent motor picks and verifyed it with a wiseman.
 
ok i got some more pictures today of some turbo porting i did and of what i have done so far , all im waiting on is that head to get back.. so here they are


<img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Picture083.jpg" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket">

<img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Picture084.jpg" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket">

<img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Picture086.jpg" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket">

<img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Picture087.jpg" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket">

<img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Picture088.jpg" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket">

<img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Picture110.jpg" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket">

<img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Picture089.jpg" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket">

<img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Picture105.jpg" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket">

<img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Picture092.jpg" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket">
 
and some more pictures, i got one of the notorious knock sensor and the "correct hole" this is an obvious picture of where she belongs LOL , and heres one of what i used to get the final smoothing done when i ported my turbo and my head

<img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Picture095.jpg" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket">

heres the knock sensor

<img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Picture096.jpg" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket">

bye bye balance shafts =)

<img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Picture100.jpg" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket">

<img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Picture127.jpg" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket">

<img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Picture126.jpg" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket">

here is a picture of my local dsm friends LOL they are both on tooners the left is bmwisthekey and the right is spydergst97 i know they are going to be pissed LOL

<img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Picture118.jpg" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket">

and thank GOD for these books!

<img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f224/mxdawg121/Picture098.jpg" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket">
 
project_tsi said:
Or Not. Its in the correct hole. Look closer, just down and to the left of the knock sensor, you will see the hole for the ac bracket. It does not go in the hole up top. That hole can yeild exessive knock readings due to noise in the head.


ok i guess ill move mine then. i was pretty sure when i put my motor together that i only had one hole left to put it in and all the other holes on the back of the block were filled, but i just went and checked and mine is up top and i have a free hole above and to the right (looking from the back) of the ac bracket.
 
Thanks for the pics. Replace that knock sensor while the motor is out. That thing is beond shot.
 
Did you have any problems with the oil rings with those federal moguls? I had the same set sitting here and attempted to use them in a set of OEM pistons but they did not fit right. Just wondering to see how they worked out...I ended up ordering a new set of OEM's
 
90turbotsi said:
Did you have any problems with the oil rings with those federal moguls? I had the same set sitting here and attempted to use them in a set of OEM pistons but they did not fit right. Just wondering to see how they worked out...I ended up ordering a new set of OEM's

no problems at all , everything went in fine :D sorry you had problems :(
 
Scrymerr said:
I don't think it is very critical to have the block decked. I just cleaned the block with a razor and laquer thinner before installing my MLS head gasket and have boosted 25+ psi very often.

It depends on how close to true it is. Don't guess, get a real straight edge and a feeler gauge. I don't run MLS gaskets if it's over .0015" warped.
 
Having the head and block resurfaced is very important. Especially when raising the boost. AllData says there should be no more than two thousands of an inch of warpage on the head and block. So if you have everything apart, just take it in to get resurfaced or at least checked.
 
NDgsx said:
It depends on how close to true it is. Don't guess, get a real straight edge and a feeler gauge. I don't run MLS gaskets if it's over .0015" warped.

we have a straight edge and its perfect, and the head will warp before the block anyways, this engine only had 80k miles , so no real warping occured (thank god)
 
1stGenRocks said:
warping doesnt happen from mileage as much as from overheating it.


i know i know but im just saying its was a relitivly fresh engine, the engine looked like it was in pretty good shape , so i doubt any warping occured. the headgasket was in excellent condition and thats usually a good sign of over heating, as well as collapsed rings (which were also decent):thumb:
 
i got thi engine from the junkyard out of a 92 tsi , beautiful car , very sexy blue color, the transmission was shot in it and it had been hitin the back minorly , and i got this perectl fine engine for 150 bucks!:thumb: :D one of the best deals ive seen so far ( besides the recent trip where my buddy got an allready socketed eprom ecu for his 2g for 20 bucks! , spydergst97 , that bastard! LOL )
 
Scrymerr said:
Well, that doesn't really make sense because pulling the block out and having it decked is a lot more time consuming and inconvienient than just stripping it. When you did the HG job did you make sure the block surface was super clean? Because heads are made out of aluminum, it is much more critical to have them decked, however a cast iron block should not change very much when pulling the head.

Dan

Yes, it's true that it's more time consuming. If you can get a straight edge and feeler gauge though you'll know if you should pull it before decking it or not anyway. Don't NOT check it and assume it's fine just because it's not aluminum. It CAN warp.
 
Okay, question is, did you have a feeler gauge? What were the specs? Just because you put a straight edge on it, doesn't mean it's not warped. Use a feeler gauge (if you didn't do so). I don't know of any machinist that visually looks at a part opposed to measuing tools with measuring devices to see if a part is bad or not.
 
I was under the impression that sanding the deck would remove some of the surface( in thousdands of inchs)
 
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