Pics from my recent engine build

[turboglenn]

Just thought I'd share some of these with everyone. I set up a set of saw-horses with a piece of 3/4 inch aluminum plate as the "table" to build on... Had my wife been home this would not have gone down in the kitchen, so thankfully she's been in TX for this whole ordeal.

The pics of the rods with bearings in them were before i had to replace the one piston ring which is when i got my ACL race bearings (no pics of them...but they look cool kinda rainbow colored)

EDIT: Well, after countless tries to re-use my old pufile account, pictures still don't upload...made a photobucket one instead, hopefully it works this time

Here's the bottom end, crank and oil squirters installed, and showing the first ring being measured for gap before filing

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Here's a piston, wanted a pic of them before they became used and un-visible

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re-checking the ring end gap, my machinist said to measure in the top and middle..the pic worked better from the top view, but they are gapped to be correct everywhere in their travel (not that any of them were different, but i was told to check in both places so i did , i normally just check them about 2 inches down) The gaps were set at .017 (top) and .019 (bottom) a little more than a "street turbo/nitrous" gap and a tad smaller than a full on "race" gap. I used the formulas with the pistons instructions but used numbers that were between these 2 applications to put me at the ring nd gap i wanted

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One down 3 to go

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You can see the ring filer in this pic on my home made table. I used aluminum blocks to keep the block elevated and level..also putting 2 long bolts in the top bell-housing holes allows you to sit the motor on it's back while working on it...little stuff like this can help a lot if you're not assembling the motor on an engine stand.. I prefer to do it on a table

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first rod through, bearing in place, getting ready for assembly lube and putting the cap on. I was only able to get ACL race bearings for the crank, so some "normal" bearings had to do for the rods (doesn't bother me any)

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a great thing to buy if you assemble a lot of engines with ARP bolts (we tore down and re-freshed every customer engine at least once a year, so this was a must when i was working on the Porsche club cars daily)

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Why if you pay attention you can never get a rod cap on wrong or on the wrong rod..all of them are marked in some way uniquely to rod and direction of install.

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I heli coiled these from the start..last motor install i had one strip as i double checked the pan bolts after the install

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To make sure the rings were in the bore square when gapping them, i find it best to put an old ring in the oil ring groove and use the piston to set the ring for measuring

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all the rods in and torqued

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assembling the front end

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a little pain to make it pretty ( i wanted the whole thing to look like an -AN fitting

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got in a rush and skipped taking pics of the rest until i got to here...motor in the air with the head and all on..installing the New 8lb aluminum Fidanza flywheel...I've been waiting for the excuse to get and install one ..a new ACT 2600 pressure plate along with a slightly used "inverted race disk" went in as well (not sure what the disk is really called, but it looks like an 8 puck disk, but the actual contact patch is inverted, but still holds the same purpose of putting the pressure on less total square inches to improve bite.

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New-used (Newsed) Fidanza cam gears (which i haven't touched yet to dial in the cams)

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And the motor going in... I wish i hadn't ran so tight on time or it would have gotten the new intake mani (modded 1g with some pretty paint and all push to lock vac fittings), new (modified with AN fittings) t-stat housing and a powder-coated and modified water tube (also all AN fittings), but they had to wait ...the water tube and and t-stat housing are still going to be swapped on, I'm just waiting for the powder-coating and the money to have it done (being forced to buy a new ECU 2 days ago f*&$ed my budget)
anyway, he it is dropping in ,,...around 2AM Dec, 28th 6 hours before departure to TX ..had it running by 5 am , and was breaking it in until about 6..then i packed and left town

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[Bud92gsx]

Nice..You think you will put more down than your current setup???

 

[turboglenn]

OHyea, it already does and my turbo is crapped out with the blades being rounded off. I'm making a LOT more power with higher compression and actually putting good springs behind my cams. Then add the lighter flywheel and it' revving faster than it ever has as well.

The car is lightingthe tires up at 15psi in third gear with a shot turbo...i'm very pleased

I couldn't be more pleased as a matter of fact (well, i would be if i had my hx35 in and tuned back on e85 i guess )

 

[talon187]

what gleen no more e85? let me know how the hx35 works out for you i may go that rotue down the road. whats compression 9.1? howd it help you on spool time?

 

[matt98eclipse]

Dam Glen nice build man. Im in the process of rebuilding my 6 bolt (lack of money is holding me up). What oil pump did you use and what type of lube did you use on main and rods bearings?

 

[turboglenn]

what gleen no more e85? let me know how the hx35 works out for you i may go that rotue down the road. whats compression 9.1? howd it help you on spool time?

I'm just running pump gas in the winter for easy starts and faster warming. The CR is 9:1 and the extra energy from the air getting in being compressed that mugh tighter creates more exhaust energy to spool as well. Also, starting with a higher static compression gives the motor a bit more pull on vacum, so it draws in more air and usually with more vacum you get a better idle as well..win/win situation (until you start adding boost anyway, then you need better fuels or less timing...which is why i'll be back on e85 as soon as the weather gets to where it's not below 0* F half the night and day

Dam Glen nice build man. Im in the process of rebuilding my 6 bolt (lack of money is holding me up). What oil pump did you use and what type of lube did you use on main and rods bearings?

Yea, money was tight here too.. I've got less than 1000 dollars in the motor including new gaskets and belts. I'd been holding on to the block for years, bartering for any parts i could get from friends and customers when they upgraded or rebuilt, so i got lucky to get it together...half my money was just for pistons and machine work. the other half was gskets, fluids adn such.. i got the rods basically free as a partial payment on working on a friends car.

I used an OEM oil pump, and used Permatex "Ultra-Slick" assembly lube it's really really thick red liquid and it's what my machinist uses too (found out when i looked on his bench recently) He said it's way better than any lithium lube because it diesnt' dry up and it doesn'tsqueeze out and go where it's not needed during assembly or when waiting to put the motor in.

I've got a new set of 3g lifters sitting here but i want to ask Darren at FFWD if i should still use the shims with his cams since the 3g's are longer than the big hole 2g stock lifters.

So now i'm wiating to save the money for the used hx35 a member on here is going to sell me, then i will finish the tune and hit the dyno armed with a 75shot of laughing gas in case the numbers don't hit what i want them to!

 

[matt98eclipse]

Thanks for the info man. I think im just gonna try the topline oil pump and hopefully everything goes well. That lube your talkin about were could i buy it? I think ill give it a try. How many miles you got on her now?

 

[Imback]

Nice build. I like the AN fitting look haha.

 

[steve-o_95_GST]

It looks really good, except for the cuts on the timing belt cover.

 

[HIGHPSI4]

Very nice. I like the engine color.

 

[turboglenn]

Thanks fellas. The Ultra Slick can be had at just about any car-quest, napa, o'reilly auto parts store. It's a permatex product and is usually next to their gasket sealers and such.

glad some one likes the AN look besides me

can't wait to get a decent turbo on this thing, put some E85 back in the tank and turn the wick up on it a bit... it's built to handle power and i got no way to make any for now hahah just my luck

I agree that the timing cover doesn't look the best, but when i was cutting it the first time it got a crack that had to be cut out (can't be seen in the pic) but there's a lot more timing ocver missing now from the crack and where the fidanza gear bolts were rubbing the cover really bad.

 

[microgalant]

Nice man keep it up