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Engine build

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milenium99

15+ Year Contributor
45
0
Jun 9, 2004
bronx, New York
After about a year and a machine shop f-up (used a 6 bolt core when doing my 7 bolt head) I've decided to build a motor. Top end I'm good on what I need but bottom end I would need some help. Looking to make 600whp, but don't know where to start ( this will be a 6 bolt). Lower compression pistons and more boost? or higher compression pistons and less boost? Looking for suggestions you guys on the boards that've had experience with any of these parts. A friend of mine is a mechanic and his machinist is going to build the block, but I just want to make sure that only the best parts are being used.

Thank in advance
 
do you daily drive the car or is it coing to e a track car? What octange gas will you be using?

The reason i ask is because if you will be running on the street and only have like 91 octane (like i have) you should go with lower compression like 8.3. If you have 94 octane or better or will be running at the track with leaded gas go or 9.0.

The rest is easy, pick a rod you feel comfortable with, i went with skat because i D/D my car and wanted the extra oiling hole.
I went with clevite bearrings, lots of people on here run ACL or engine pro

Eliminate your balance shaft.
Port the oil relief valve
New oil pump, water pump, all timing components.
A nice lightened flywheel will make the motor rev even faster than just forged internals. I went with fidanza

Get a good reputable machinst, get everything balanced and micro polish your crank.

Anything else you can do a search on and there is LOADS of info in this section on what people built and why, I searched for weeks figuring out my setup.

Any more questions feel free to ask or shoot me a PM
 
Same questions everyone is going to be asking you...

what are you doing with the car?
are you just set on making 600hp and nothing else?
are you looking for a motor that has top end power only? (ie 600hp)
have you considered a stroker motor?

SCAT rods

1) they're rated to 950 hp
2) they're lighter then Eagles
3) they have the extra oiling hole like T9S1i mentioned.

Mahle pistons

1) they're cheap
2) they're coated from the factory
3) they're light weight.

ACL tri metal bearings
Kiggly main stud brace
B/S eliminator
ARP main studs
balanced and blueprinted rotating assembly
double check ring end gaps
New oil pump, ARP main studs, Mitsu MLS head gasket
Have the machine shop finish the block and head to a 40ra or better smoothness
double check overthing, then check it again
use a good torque wrench....
 
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