Altered Mental Status (1G AWD 5spd)

[Stapl3]

Injectors might not be fully closing. That's what I'm working through on my car with hot start issues.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Injectors might not be fully closing. That's what I'm working through on my car with hot start issues.

Any idea of a fix? Cleaning/flowing them? Or am I gonna have to go new set of high z?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Checked Key Start?
You running Low Z's now?
Hi-z's are, in my limited tuning abilities, easier to get to work at idle and at WOT, the bigger you go in injector size. Their transition from one to another (like an idle circuit going to a high speed circuit in a carburetor) just works better. I am running 1100 Hi-z's in my stock 1990 GSX (well almost stock) and I had my youngest son dial them in as a test and the car doesn't really know any difference.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Hey.....you drive an ambulance? Don't you have access to a big syringe like this? I suck brake fluid out with it and you can get one at a animal supply store (Atwoods, Tractor Supply, like some of those that sell livestock supplies and vaccines etc). It will pull a vacuum super easy.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Checked Key Start?
You running Low Z's now?
Hi-z's are, in my limited tuning abilities, easier to get to work at idle and at WOT, the bigger you go in injector size. Their transition from one to another (like an idle circuit going to a high speed circuit in a carburetor) just works better. I am running 1100 Hi-z's in my stock 1990 GSX (well almost stock) and I had my youngest son dial them in as a test and the car doesn't really know any difference.

Yeah, I've been running the Low Z's from the beginning. On a MAF they seemed way more forgiving. On this SD Setup they are cutting my throat. Or maybe they're just acting up and it's a coincidence. I haven't logged Key Start yet tbh, I struggled all day with the fuel pump and installing the clevis. I'll do that on my next set of days off.

Hey.....you drive an ambulance? Don't you have access to a big syringe like this? I suck brake fluid out with it and you can get one at a animal supply store (Atwoods, Tractor Supply, like some of those that sell livestock supplies and vaccines etc). It will pull a vacuum super easy.

View attachment 747716

This is also a great idea. I have access to medical supplies of all kinds including syringes.

 

[Stapl3]

Any idea of a fix? Cleaning/flowing them? Or am I gonna have to go new set of high z?

Cleaning.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

All jokes aside, I did suck/blow on a mechanical pressure gauge once. It was the first boost/vacuum gauge I ever bought, and I quickly realized that it's not meant to measure pressure from a human. I couldn't get it past -1hg and not even creeping to 1 psi. That was obviously a light hearted joke but I've been there

My "vacuum bleeder" often gets repurposed from bleeding hydraulic systems. It's really nice to own one.

 

[Justin DuBois]

My "vacuum bleeder" often gets repurposed from bleeding hydraulic systems. It's really nice to own one.

I inherited the one I got from my Father, its not deluxe - its plastic actually - and the lid to the fluid container has cracked - but the hand pump still works.

For context, he used it on his 1962 Volvo P1800

 

[CrackedDSM]

So, think I should drive the car to work tomorrow or just let it sit? It seems like it's not wanting to die randomly(at least not more than usual), and it did great today. But I'm conflicted. I feel like I should drive it, but don't know if I feel like it. It's not a lack of desire, but it is a little bit of obligation.


So I'll let yall decide. Drive the shit out of the Talon to work, or just let it sit until I can mess with it some more two weeks from now.

 

[Anfurnyy]

So, think I should drive the car to work tomorrow or just let it sit? It seems like it's not wanting to die randomly(at least not more than usual), and it did great today. But I'm conflicted. I feel like I should drive it, but don't know if I feel like it. It's not a lack of desire, but it is a little bit of obligation.


So I'll let yall decide. Drive the shit out of the Talon to work, or just let it sit until I can mess with it some more two weeks from now.

Depends on your tolerance to work on it on the side of the road or parking lot if something happens

 

[DreamChaser7]

Personally I would be letting her sit until she was happier with my actions, but I don’t want to roadside mechanic if I can avoid it.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Depends on your tolerance to work on it on the side of the road or parking lot if something happens

Personally I would be letting her sit until she was happier with my actions, but I don’t want to roadside mechanic if I can avoid it.

I drove the edge to work. . @Anfurnyy was pretty convincing.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I drove the edge to work. . @Anfurnyy was pretty convincing.

I been there

 

[CrackedDSM]

I been there

View attachment 747933

I have too. That shit brought back memories immediately. .

I’m not like afraid of working on it on the side of the road, but the thing is when it comes to my work showing up late is essentially abandoning a patient. You’ll be fired immediately. So if the dsm leaves me stranded I’m screwed.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I have too. That shit brought back memories immediately. .

I’m not like afraid of working on it on the side of the road, but the thing is when it comes to my work showing up late is essentially abandoning a patient. You’ll be fired immediately. So if the dsm leaves me stranded I’m screwed.

That's a very compelling reason then, you made the right choice then!

 

[CrackedDSM]

Replaced the diaphragm in the AFPR just now. Took like 5 minutes. The old diaphragm looked great so I don’t think it’ll fix anything but at least now I know it’s brand new and working.


Also to anyone that orders an aeromotive rebuild kit for their AFPR, the diaphragm is no longer tan/reddish brown. It’s dark blue now. I thought I got sent a knockoff and reached out to Aeromotive and they confirmed it’s authentic, they switched suppliers.


I haven’t started the car or anything because I haven’t slept yet. Which I’m about to do right after this post. Lol. But yeah. I’ll do it later. Might drive it some too, to see how it acts.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Alright, so far so good. Started the car and double checked fuel pressure. Fuel Pressure is solid, if maybe like .5 higher than before. Even with it slightly higher, it's leaner everywhere. Not by a significant margin, but the fact I changed nothing but the diaphragm and now it's leaner everywhere suggests the old diaphragm was just letting fuel blow by it. It's 11.8ish at WOT now where before it was hitting 10.9. I haven't done a full third gear pull yet, but so far I definitely see a difference. I also let the car die and restarted it after a few cranks. Before I had to cycle the key a few times, but this time no key cycles needed.

It was a short drive, so this is far from conclusive...but honestly, so far so good. It also didn't die while I was letting it warm up either, where before it absolutely would. I had no clue just swapping the diaphragm would make so much difference, man.


Also, since I adjusted the clevis further out, it's changed the release point of the clutch pedal, so I'm gonna have to get used to it again. I didn't realize before but I think it was releasing like...immediately(millimeters) off the firewall/floor. It's now significantly higher. I can slip it much more now. Crazy.


Also: I did the bastarddsm "first gear test" where the car is sitting flat, idling, not touching the clutch and I gently apply pressure to first. The engine bogs down and it never grinds. So IDK. Maybe the synchros are juuuuust barely starting to go out, because if I try to grab first immediately when the clutch hits the floor, it'll grind. However I ripped a 2-3 and 3-4 shift as fast as I could, and it went right in and didn't grind at all. It kind of startled me. Lol. I expected a grind.


But anyway. That was fun. Maybe I can start driving the car to work again. I'll have to find an excuse to drive somewhere today or tomorrow to get a nice 3rd gear log, and to test the car further.

 

[Justin DuBois]

DSM's smell fear... Drive to work (or don't) there is no try.

 

[CrackedDSM]

DSM's smell fear... Drive to work (or don't) there is no try.

Oh I will. Gotta relearn the clutch and put some break in miles on it! Once it hits 500 miles the oil will be changed with good stuff, and boost will be turned up.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Roughly measuring my clutch engagement point has it like 2.5-3” off the carpet. Awesome! Very pleased with that.


Also have a new sending unit coming my way to replace the bad fuel level sender on my current one. So that’s exciting as well. I need to run a wire from the new unit to the gauge cluster though so the idiotic low fuel light goes away. The wiring on this poor car really does need to be completely gone through.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Roughly measuring my clutch engagement point has it like 2.5-3” off the carpet. Awesome! Very pleased with that.


Also have a new sending unit coming my way to replace the bad fuel level sender on my current one. So that’s exciting as well. I need to run a wire from the new unit to the gauge cluster though so the idiotic low fuel light goes away. The wiring on this poor car really does need to be completely gone through.

What's wrong with the wiring to the cluster?

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

What's wrong with the wiring to the cluster?

Right... I'd see if the new sending unit fixes the low fuel light issue before tearing into wiring

 

[CrackedDSM]

What's wrong with the wiring to the cluster?

I don’t really know honestly. I think someone bastardized the dash harness because when I got the car the only thing that worked on the cluster was the speedo. Tach, coolant temp, oil pressure didn’t work. I had to run a wire from the ptu to the actual pin on the harness that plugs into the cluster to get the tach to work. I’d have to do the same thing to the temp, pressure, and low fuel pins I’m guessing. I think someone tried to put in a 90 dash harness and just gave up and clicked what would click in.

I need to pull the dash one day but man am I not looking forward to that. Lol.


Edit - for reference the wire colors at my ecu plugs are 1990 colors. But the engine harness has 1991 colors. The previous owner warned me that the idiot he bought the car from was like “good luck with that dash harness, I took the good one that was in there.” It was the same guy who “fixed” the shifter cables with a beer can and duct tape.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I don’t really know honestly. I think someone bastardized the dash harness because when I got the car the only thing that worked on the cluster was the speedo. Tach, coolant temp, oil pressure didn’t work. I had to run a wire from the ptu to the actual pin on the harness that plugs into the cluster to get the tach to work. I’d have to do the same thing to the temp pressure and low fuel pins I’m guessing. I think someone tried to put in a 90 dash harness and just gave up and clicked what would click in.

I need to pull the dash one day but man am I not looking forward to that. Lol.

I'll be 100% honest pulling the dash is not bad at all. Once you know where the bolts/screws are it's like maybe a 20 minute job. Just be sure you've got room to open the doors a good big.

IIRC the light comes on when the fuel falls below the little node on the sending unit which I think closes the loop and turns the light on?

 

[CrackedDSM]

I'll be 100% honest pulling the dash is not bad at all. Once you know where the bolts/screws are it's like maybe a 20 minute job. Just be sure you've got room to open the doors a good big.

IIRC the light comes on when the fuel falls below the little node on the sending unit which I think closes the loop and turns the light on?
View attachment 748026

Yeah it does. It’s a thermistor. Mine works and I checked it with my multimeter but the light won’t ever go off. Lol. I’m gonna ground the wire later and see if the light goes out. (And by later I mean in like a damn week when I have time off )