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Altered Mental Status(1G AWD 5spd)

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Dude I know exactly the same horror kinda. While fixing some fencing up in Dade City a while back, I was digging out an old post to replace it. Down in the rotten wood saw something moving, like a wave or synchronized flock of birds, but solid and black. It was hundreds of baby spiders, but they were on momma’s back! Still don’t know what they were but she was huge! Only thing I had out on the truck was wasp spray so they all got a can of that! Lol
Oh yah the banana spiders were already scary as shit out there too, they would be hundreds of them everywhere including all over the house the size of you hand. This was my wife’s father’s house after he died and we had to share responsibilities of upkeep until they sold it. Still get the chills thinking about those bastards!
 
I had to read that twice, and do a little research. That may be a little funny, but mostly concerning. It looks like this time of year the eggs are hatching in less than a month (2-3 weeks out in the heat and closer to a month in the A/C). Those mirrors were in my parts room for more than a month. And it seems like the eggs only hatched because you disturbed them. So mommy is somewhere in my f***ing parts room. How many other parts are a time bomb? OMG It's time to empty that room out completely. And potentially roleplay some pest control. I've been needing to tear the room apart anyway for renovations, but have been waiting for the parts to clear out.

Yea, so all that complaining you guys like to do in terms of Florida climate... Spiders are the curse in mine. A few years ago I opened the door to an 8 inch garden spider webbed in the doorway, and I almost walked face first into it. And now apparently I sent you a ton of those f***ers, first class next day delivery ROFL. At least they all died easy. Just can't help but imagining more of that shit in my parts room.


I was legitimately going to message you and warn you, but I forgot. ROFL I immediately thought of you.
 
Surprised you didn’t paint the mirrors before they went on. Rain guards look cool tho they flow with the body

I was going to but decided against it. Thankfully it’s super easy to paint the mirrors on the car if I change my mind.


Dude I know exactly the same horror kinda. While fixing some fencing up in Dade City a while back, I was digging out an old post to replace it. Down in the rotten wood saw something moving, like a wave or synchronized flock of birds, but solid and black. It was hundreds of baby spiders, but they were on momma’s back! Still don’t know what they were but she was huge! Only thing I had out on the truck was wasp spray so they all got a can of that! Lol
Oh yah the banana spiders were already scary as shit out there too, they would be hundreds of them everywhere including all over the house the size of you hand. This was my wife’s father’s house after he died and we had to share responsibilities of upkeep until they sold it. Still get the chills thinking about those bastards!


Banana spiders are terrifying. I hate how big those SOBs are. They look like evil made physical.
 
For your FIC 1050 injectors, what flow sheet did you use? I have searched these forums but not come up with any reasonable results.
I have the same injectors and just getting started on a base SD tune, but I believe either the latency table is out of whack, meaning I am running must less deadtime than I have seen from others. (110um vs. ~330um).
 
For your FIC 1050 injectors, what flow sheet did you use? I have searched these forums but not come up with any reasonable results.
I have the same injectors and just getting started on a base SD tune, but I believe either the latency table is out of whack, meaning I am running must less deadtime than I have seen from others. (110um vs. ~330um).


It was a flowsheet that @DSMPT posted. Let me see if I can find it. Check this post routinely, as when/if I do, I'll edit this post and attach it here.



FWIW I had to add an additional like 150uSec of deadtime in the fuel tab to get it to idle properly. So if you're having to add more, don't be surprised.


Edit: Found it! Post #9 of this thread. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/injector-data-sheets.535257/#post-153815522


I'll attach a log of mine, so you can see my deadtimes in my InjBatteryAdj tab, and what my deadtimes are on my fuel tab under config.
 

Attachments

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Adjust your throttle stop so the plate closes a little more. You may have to adjust the BISS counter clockwise while doing this as they are dance partners. Then do a Capture and stomp on the gas pedal. Then stop the Capture and right click on the graph, select TPS Adjust and save to ECU. Have the Enable TPS Adjustments box checked.
 
Dave and Tom at ecmlink made an injector testing rig to come up with actual deadtime values. This is for FIC1150's, not FIC1050's, but if I were you, I would put the values below into my InjBatteryAdj and never change them again as that shape of behavior is probably excellent for them. I would then only change the global deadtime adjustment on the Fuel tab to make changes at idle until afratioest = actual wideband. That value could be into the hundreds on either side of zero and that is completely OK.

7v -> 2988
9v -> 2142
12v -> 1266
14v -> 971
16v -> 789
19v -> 558
 
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Adjust your throttle stop so the plate closes a little more. You may have to adjust the BISS counter clockwise while doing this as they are dance partners. Then do a Capture and stomp on the gas pedal. Then stop the Capture and right click on the graph, select TPS Adjust and save to ECU. Have the Enable TPS Adjustments box checked.


So loosen it a little? Am I going by feel or is there some kind of target value I'm after? Not being a smart-ass, genuinely curious/real question. I don't wanna close it too far.
 
Cross an item off my bucket/to-do list with this car.

  • Drove it to work

I did this partly for two reasons. 1) I wanted to use it as a good test/to put more in-traffic miles on the clutch. 2) Because I simply wanted to. :p


The drive went perfect. The more time goes on, the more I think this alternator is dying or not long for this world. Because on the way there(about 15-20 minutes) it idled fine on its own, and had no real issues. But soon as the fans started kicking on more than just occasionally, and putting a load on the system it started to have its dying idle/slight bucking at super low RPM in gear issues. (like sub 2k rpm) I think honestly the bucking at 1-2k rpm is just my fault for being 15 years+ since I daily'ed a M/T car, but the idle is consistently bad anytime a load is put on the electrical system. At night with the headlights and fans or during the day with fans on more than a few seconds at a time, etc.

On the way home I couldn't be more proud of it. I kept it alive by driving with two feet and blipping the throttle occasionally. At stoplights I'd hold the car with the ebrake and hold the idle up at 1500-2k rpm ish for a few seconds then let off, and that would be enough for it to chugalug a bit, but idle on its own. Taking off in gear was no problem.

The thing I'm the most proud of, is even with 95* ambient temps(110*+ with humidity/head index), IN traffic, with only one working(oem) cooling fan, it never overheated. Temps never got above 190's(I have an AEM water temp gauge) even at the hottest condition, and once you got the car moving with some decent airflow, it actively cooled down to 180's. This is huge to me because there's a few things to remember.

  • This is Florida aka the Fiery Pits of Hell
  • The car has the A/C Condenser in front of the radiator
  • The car has an intercooler in front of the A/C Condenser
  • The car has only one working fan, but it's OEM(high volume, baby)
  • This was in traffic, on black top asphalt, in a black car.
  • There is ZERO ducting(Aftermarket or OEM), no holes in the bumper, nothing aiding flow to the radiator at all.

Super, super pleased honestly. It handles great, over any kind of bump it rides like a bouncy castle(ROFL), it keeps up with traffic, it makes turbo noises, and the best thing by far of the whole drive?

I didn't stall it even a single time. Even on an incline, from a dead stop, at way too low of RPM. Achievement Unlocked! Lol.


But yeah. Super stoked. It's so surreal to be typing this because at so many points it felt like this would never happen. The car f*cking drives, yall.
 
That's awesome! Congrats!
Soon, very soon, people will stop you at the gas pump or grocery liquor store, "I use to have one of those." "It was soooo fast." "it was so much fun." "I sold it and regret it." "that thing is so cool! It's older than me." (seems like this stuff recently came up in another thread)
LOL, l o l seriously, I get those comments all the time since I daily drive mine. With an occasional thumbs up on the road and tons of people rubber-necking.
 
By the way, this may or may not have happened while ridin' dirty. The Talon may or may not actually have a license plate yet. :p

I'm also still waiting on my retrofit fitting for the high side line. Hopefully it comes today, because next week-ish I'll install all the seals, and the compressor, and seal the system. From there I'll be able to get it charged/put under vacuum, and try to get that A/C workin'.

That's awesome! Congrats!
Soon, very soon, people will stop you at the gas pump or grocery liquor store, "I use to have one of those." "It was soooo fast." "it was so much fun." "I sold it and regret it." "that thing is so cool! It's older than me." (seems like this stuff recently came up in another thread)
LOL, l o l seriously, I get those comments all the time since I daily drive mine. With an occasional thumbs up on the road and tons of people rubber-necking.

Lol, I can imagine. A few weeks back I drove it to the gas station at night to get some fuel, and the gas attendant remarked about it. Said basically what you said above. It was pretty cool though. The drive today I didn't make eye contact with anyone(see the line about license plates, and also because I was laser focused on not letting it stall. Lmao) and didn't stop anywhere so I couldn't see if people were admiring, mean mugging, or ignoring me.


I’m totally jealous, but you put in the time and work man, enjoy it!


🤗 Appreciate ya brotha. I definitely busted my ass on it. Still got some things to do, but it's come a long way...
 
So, played around with some connectors today. Two things.

1) ECU plugs are STUPID easy to de-pin. It's like cathartic almost. I had a spare bad ECU plug(disconnect level is snapped off) that I wanted to test on, because if I broke something oh well, it was bad anyway. And honestly...so easy and fun.

2) I received a spare ISC/headlight motor/Solenoid pack connector, and started playing with it too, and discovered a cheater trick. I have destroyed two of these plugs, and doing it the way that I've seen previous articles say NEVER worked for me. I've found a cheater solution. To follow are some hilarious paint.exe drawings showing what I mean for anyone curious.

How to remove terminals.jpg


Hilarious picture explained: The black portion is the actual pin inside the connector. The red portions, are the "locks" that hold the pin in and keep it from moving. What I did was slide a small flathead screwdriver down onto the portion that's gray in the picture(the line pointing and saying bend this open) and used it to pry the little round portion open. You may have to tap it down lightly to separate it, but it does separate.

Once this has been separated, it's childs play to reach down with a flathead screwdriver on the other side to pry the lock backwards/out of the terminal, and easily pull the wire and terminal out. Once you have the terminal out, use the same screwdriver to fold those two pieces back into a semi-circle/mountain shape before you install it into a new hole. This way you don't have to mutilate the plug, or try to somehow use two small screwdrivers to pry them out.

Again, this works for the ISC/IACV plug, the solenoid pack plug on the firewall, 1ga popup motor plugs, and whatever else I'm forgetting. I think I'm the only one who will ever need to do this...but hey, if some random dude 15 years in the future needs this info...it's here. :) It made this job 10x easier and felt like cheating.
 
So I got so inspired by depinning stuff last night, that I bought some stuff today. Terminal Crimping tool, and a couple plugs w/ terminals. I'm gonna convert the plug on this harness back to a 1G MAF plug, and then make two harnesses. One will be a 1G MAF -> SD Harness and the other will be a simple 1G MAF -> 2G MAF harness. If it works, IDK I might start making a bunch of this stuff to order and just selling it for at cost or maybe a little above. I'm tired of seeing people charge $45 for a harness that takes like $15 to make, plus I think it'll be fun. The older I get, the more I like wiring.

Are there any kind of conversion harnesses anyone would like to see made or would buy if you saw them for cheap?
 
Dave and Tom at ecmlink made an injector testing rig to come up with actual deadtime values. This is for FIC1150's, not FIC1050's, but if I were you, I would put the values below into my InjBatteryAdj and never change them again as that shape of behavior is probably excellent for them. I would then only change the global deadtime adjustment on the Fuel tab to make changes at idle until afratioest = actual wideband. That value could be into the hundreds on either side of zero and that is completely OK.

7v -> 2988
9v -> 2142
12v -> 1266
14v -> 971
16v -> 789
19v -> 558
Would this be okay on a 2g? I was going to follow this:
 
Would this be okay on a 2g?
Absolutely.

As for your link, think about it like this, the creators of ecmlink made a testing station to come up with real world exact values to use for those specific injectors to pair with their software. You'll never get information better than the values listed. Info elsewhere could be ignored.

For example, they tested 2150s and I put their values in, then only changed deadtime on my fuel tab, so a global adjustment of those DA values. Profound adjustment for me.
 
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Alright, ordered a new 90 AMP alternator for the Talon(even if the current one isn't bad, it's a parts store 65amp model), and a set of four Cooper Zeon RS3-G1's. I had them on my old Red 2G GSX, and loved them. They're wide, have great traction, and comfortable too. Pretty excited TBH. Gonna replace the old dry-rotted and cracking tires that are on it now, that have always been a source of concern for me.


When I jack the car up to remove the wheels, I'm honestly thinking I'm gonna throw the stock struts and Tein S tech springs back on this thing, and save the coilovers for if I need them in the future/want to go drag racing. It's not a bad ride, but getting airborne over dips/divots in the road gets old. So the stock struts and good comfy new tires should be a great combo.
 
Absolutely.

As for your link, think about it like this, the creators of ecmlink made a testing station to come up with real world exact values to use for those specific injectors to pair with their software. You'll never get information better than the values listed. Info elsewhere could be ignored.

For example, they tested 2150s and I put their values in, then only changed deadtime on my fuel tab, so a global adjustment of those DA values. Profound adjustment for me.
I input the latency values you provided and they do seem to be working out quick well for me. Wanted to close that loop, so thank you!
 
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