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97 eclipse

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Made some phone calls and found out i have a lifetime alternator at Oriely that i purchased in 2019. :hellyeah:Going down to get a new one tonight.
have some stuff going on with an oil cooling system that im sorting out but got the means to make the Mishimoto sandwich plate fit for the application and will make another post on the subject after the charge system is fixed.
 
20211103_183547.jpg
Can't get a good pic of the oil cooler its tucked up in the passanger side fender. And im running these lines across the front so it has plenty of time to cool down before it returns to the housing. I just have to install the adapter plug and put on the filter but I think i will sit and watch a movie with the kids first LOL
 
You can fit that adaptor? I just remember my 2g had no room between the oil filter and the downpipe. Always had to use wix iirc.
Cut the down pipe and changed the angle slightly. Got a 1/4 to put the filter on and about 5/8 from exhaust bolt when the filter is tight. The down pipe is wrapped with Tomei wrap. IMO they make the best quality wrap. One other thing i did was use the 3000gt oil filter. It's shorter and fatter. It would definitely be impossible with the oem 7bolt filter on there.
 
I was reinstalling the alternator and cannot express my hatred enough getting the tensioner bolt and slide back on there during installation. I put my tools down and walked away after dropping the hardware like 20 times. At least i dont need to touch the a.c. compressor that one is true evil LOL
 
Chasing down a parasitic draw. Battery is too weak to start after sitting for less than 24 hours. Just a basic alternator and a red top battery. Not even sure where to start.
 
Have you measured the draw? Unhook the negative battery terminal and hook a voltmeter set on amps between the battery post and the terminal. 50 mA was the maximum acceptable draw when I was working at the dealership, and that’s on newer cars so I’d imagine dsms should run lower than that. Most common causes are gonna be aftermarket modules and wiring. Unplug fuses until the draw goes away, then components on the circuit you narrowed it to.
 
Have you measured the draw? Unhook the negative battery terminal and hook a voltmeter set on amps between the battery post and the terminal. 50 mA was the maximum acceptable draw when I was working at the dealership, and that’s on newer cars so I’d imagine dsms should run lower than that. Most common causes are gonna be aftermarket modules and wiring. Unplug fuses until the draw goes away, then components on the circuit you narrowed it to.
Thank you thats very helpful. Unfortunately i have another issue. Injector 3 is not firing. Chasing that too. Could be the source of the draw too i suppose.
 
P1105 seems to be the CEL. Unplugging injector 3 seems not to make a change. Can't drive the car that cylinder is 100% leaned out dont even want to start it. Looks like i have a damn scavenger hunt on my hands. Right on time too had everything ready for some casual driving and boom runs like crap. Lucky for me im way too cautious backed out of the garage knew it didn't feel right and putted back in and let it idle for a bit til it threw a code. Before that i did notice the AFR was freaking out but it usually doesn't like cold starts anyway and the fuel lines were dry from having them off and the injectors weren't primed yet. I think its a short but i haven't had fuel trouble since i went to these 750 injectors. I have a set of 1000s that i can put in i will just have to switch back to another saved tune i have for them.
The 750s are rebuilt injectors but im starting to think they aren't quite that good of quality. It might be possible that that injector is clogged.
 
Im having trouble testing the injector plug for activity to see if its being given power. 2 and 3 do not respond to an idiot light test while in idle i figured the light would flash every time the injector is given signal. Neither 2 or 3 reacts, but pulling the plug on #2 almost kills it so 2 is definitely being fed. Getting my butt kicked any pointers would be really helpful.
 
For injectors, it constantly has 12v at the positive wire and the ecu controls the ground side to pulse the injector. A noid light would work best but if you use a test light, it would be very faint.
 
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