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92 Galant

Year
1992
Model/Trim
Mitsubishi Galant VR-4

KCDsmDude

Proven Member
176
79
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
Been out of the DSM scene for over 10 years, but finally got back into it this past October. Purchased a built Galant, and have been stacking parts for further upgrades. Ideally I'd like to make 700 whp on the new setup, while keeping outside appearing "stock". Only thing is the wheel/tire combo are very aggressive so anyone in the "know" will know.

Current Mod List:

Eagle H Beam Rods
Weisco Pistons
L19 HS
MLS HG, OEM crank
GSC high rev springs and retainers
HKS 272's
Walbro 450 high flow e85 pump, 2150 FIC's, Aeromotive FPR, AN line from rail to FPR
SS clutch line
Scirocco radiator with 16 an fittings
3000 gt shifter
4 bolt rear, rear arms are tubular with active toe eliminator
D2 coilovers with camber plates
15x8 xxr 002 with R888R tires
Manual rack
Bolt on 6262 (stock exhaust mani)
AEM WB02
ECMlink V3
Jacks stage 4
Comp twin disc
Tial bov
JMFab Drag Race intake mani
ETS intercooler kit
Hallman MBC
Sparktech COP (no cdi yet)
93 headlights

What I have sitting in the apartment:

Gen 2 6466
Dual tial 38 mm wastegates
Morrison Fab divided t4 manifold with downpipe and dumptubes
DSS alumimum DS - used
S90 throttle body - used
ECB-1 boost/afr/fuel temp gauge
JM Fab small battery kit and tray
All new Ground wires for the entire engine bay - 6 gauge - 6 of them
All new vacuum lines - 25 feet of 3mm and 4mm line - will be replacing all the line in the car

I move into a house in the coming weeks, and will have the garage space to finally dig into the issues on the car.

Additional plans I have for the car:

- Remove the ABS system and replace all brake lines with stainless steel. Seems I can pick up a non-proportioning ABS 1g valve for cheap, and JNZ tuning makes a kit that replaces all the lines for the front wheels. Also found a post that said if you call them, they would make rear lines as well.
- Add a CDI box - likely the ARC 2
- Replace the drives side window regulator and window switch - doesn't want to roll up very well and the it won't roll up the passenger or rear windows at all
- Locate a f***ing drivers side a-pillar
- Paint the car - 30 year old paint is ROUGH
- Put the stock O2 back in it, as well as the ECB-1 setup so tuning is easier for someone much smarter than I
- Have the entire exhaust system from downpipe back changed over to a lighter metal
- Replace the stock fuel lines with SS
- Clean up engine bay wiring/grease removal

Current issues I have with the car:

Note: that I'm an idiot when it comes to electrical things, but I'm forcing myself to learn. I'm sure I will be posting some VERY elementary questions starting out, but I'd rather ask and be sure, than risk blowing something up; spent a pretty penny on the latest round of upgrades.

First Issue:

The car will not connect to Link. I have tried the following: Two laptops, both driver versions, both Link versions, three different USB cables (one brand new from ECMLink). The car recognizes the com port and that does pop up, the correct driver IS installed. Browsing Link forums, the next thing I'm going to try and do is:

- verify the OBD port is getting power/data using this link: https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/diagport-12pin
- verify that there is a connection between Pins 1 and 2 on the ECU and pins 1 and 10 on the OBD port.
- If this is true and there is continuity, open up the ECU and look for any damage


My question here is, how do I check to see if PIN 12 has connectivity to ground? I have my voltmeter set to OHMS, do I place one clamp on PIN 12, and another on a nut/bolt that's screwed into the chassis? Can I use the bolt that's near the fuse box/OBD 1 port? What kind of reading should I be expecting to see on my voltmeter? Close to zero? Should it beep if I have it set to the correct setting? I know that for Pins 1/2 to Pins 1/10 I should hear a beep.

How does one check for this? Pins 1 and 10 should not have connectivity to chassis ground and should not be connected with each other. Check that this is true. And please, explain it as if you were explaining it to a child, or a golden retriever.

Second Issue:

The car, at WOT, breaks up around 5,000 RPM plus. If I stay out of boost, I can creep it up to 7k just fine. I've replaced the plugs and that didn't impact it one way or another. But without being able to LOG it, I can't get much detail out of the car. I did a boost leak test, and that came back "fine", car didn't want to go above 27 psi, their is a "hissing" sound coming from the wastegate at that psi. I popped off the vacuum line and plugged it with my hand, hissing went away and car held the remaining psi for well over a minute. I've seen some folks post on other forums that their Tial WG leaks around 30 psi, they spoke with Tial and said this is expected. I believe it was a Honda forum, maybe Subaru, I can locate it if needed


Previous owner connected to Link just fine before I bought the car Oct 2020, this whole time I've had it, I've not been able to get Link to connect. Car pulled strong when I got it, but developed the spark/boost related issue I highlighted above. However, that's not worth really digging into it since I'll be making so many changes to the car

Once I get all the upgrades on, would love to see 7-750 whp out of her.

Thanks for looking! Any help with the Link issue is appreciated, but hoping that I can figure it out after a few hours of research and figuring out how to use a voltmeter, ha.
 

Ludachris

Founder & Zookeeper
7,617
2,002
Nov 12, 2001
Newcastle, California
Been out of the DSM scene for over 10 years, but finally got back into it this past October. Purchased a built Galant, and have been stacking parts for further upgrades. Ideally I'd like to make 700 whp on the new setup, while keeping outside appearing "stock". Only thing is the wheel/tire combo are very aggressive so anyone in the "know" will know.

Current Mod List:

Eagle H Beam Rods
Weisco Pistons
L19 HS
MLS HG, OEM crank
GSC high rev springs and retainers
HKS 272's
Walbro 450 high flow e85 pump, 2150 FIC's, Aeromotive FPR, AN line from rail to FPR
SS clutch line
Scirocco radiator with 16 an fittings
3000 gt shifter
4 bolt rear, rear arms are tubular with active toe eliminator
D2 coilovers with camber plates
15x8 xxr 002 with R888R tires
Manual rack
Bolt on 6262 (stock exhaust mani)
AEM WB02
ECMlink V3
Jacks stage 4
Comp twin disc
Tial bov
JMFab Drag Race intake mani
ETS intercooler kit
Hallman MBC
Sparktech COP (no cdi yet)
93 headlights

What I have sitting in the apartment:

Gen 2 6466
Dual tial 38 mm wastegates
Morrison Fab divided t4 manifold with downpipe and dumptubes
DSS alumimum DS - used
S90 throttle body - used
ECB-1 boost/afr/fuel temp gauge
JM Fab small battery kit and tray
All new Ground wires for the entire engine bay - 6 gauge - 6 of them
All new vacuum lines - 25 feet of 3mm and 4mm line - will be replacing all the line in the car

I move into a house in the coming weeks, and will have the garage space to finally dig into the issues on the car.

Additional plans I have for the car:

- Remove the ABS system and replace all brake lines with stainless steel. Seems I can pick up a non-proportioning ABS 1g valve for cheap, and JNZ tuning makes a kit that replaces all the lines for the front wheels. Also found a post that said if you call them, they would make rear lines as well.
- Add a CDI box - likely the ARC 2
- Replace the drives side window regulator and window switch - doesn't want to roll up very well and the it won't roll up the passenger or rear windows at all
- Locate a f***ing drivers side a-pillar
- Paint the car - 30 year old paint is ROUGH
- Put the stock O2 back in it, as well as the ECB-1 setup so tuning is easier for someone much smarter than I
- Have the entire exhaust system from downpipe back changed over to a lighter metal
- Replace the stock fuel lines with SS
- Clean up engine bay wiring/grease removal

Current issues I have with the car:

Note: that I'm an idiot when it comes to electrical things, but I'm forcing myself to learn. I'm sure I will be posting some VERY elementary questions starting out, but I'd rather ask and be sure, than risk blowing something up; spent a pretty penny on the latest round of upgrades.

First Issue:

The car will not connect to Link. I have tried the following: Two laptops, both driver versions, both Link versions, three different USB cables (one brand new from ECMLink). The car recognizes the com port and that does pop up, the correct driver IS installed. Browsing Link forums, the next thing I'm going to try and do is:

- verify the OBD port is getting power/data using this link: https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/diagport-12pin
- verify that there is a connection between Pins 1 and 2 on the ECU and pins 1 and 10 on the OBD port.
- If this is true and there is continuity, open up the ECU and look for any damage


My question here is, how do I check to see if PIN 12 has connectivity to ground? I have my voltmeter set to OHMS, do I place one clamp on PIN 12, and another on a nut/bolt that's screwed into the chassis? Can I use the bolt that's near the fuse box/OBD 1 port? What kind of reading should I be expecting to see on my voltmeter? Close to zero? Should it beep if I have it set to the correct setting? I know that for Pins 1/2 to Pins 1/10 I should hear a beep.

How does one check for this? Pins 1 and 10 should not have connectivity to chassis ground and should not be connected with each other. Check that this is true. And please, explain it as if you were explaining it to a child, or a golden retriever.

Second Issue:

The car, at WOT, breaks up around 5,000 RPM plus. If I stay out of boost, I can creep it up to 7k just fine. I've replaced the plugs and that didn't impact it one way or another. But without being able to LOG it, I can't get much detail out of the car. I did a boost leak test, and that came back "fine", car didn't want to go above 27 psi, their is a "hissing" sound coming from the wastegate at that psi. I popped off the vacuum line and plugged it with my hand, hissing went away and car held the remaining psi for well over a minute. I've seen some folks post on other forums that their Tial WG leaks around 30 psi, they spoke with Tial and said this is expected. I believe it was a Honda forum, maybe Subaru, I can locate it if needed


Previous owner connected to Link just fine before I bought the car Oct 2020, this whole time I've had it, I've not been able to get Link to connect. Car pulled strong when I got it, but developed the spark/boost related issue I highlighted above. However, that's not worth really digging into it since I'll be making so many changes to the car

Once I get all the upgrades on, would love to see 7-750 whp out of her.

Thanks for looking! Any help with the Link issue is appreciated, but hoping that I can figure it out after a few hours of research and figuring out how to use a voltmeter, ha.
Nice update - hope you'll keep sharing as you work through the build. Would love to see more photos when you get a chance too.
 

KCDsmDude

Proven Member
176
79
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
Nice update - hope you'll keep sharing as you work through the build. Would love to see more photos when you get a chance too.

Definitely, will be pretty silent over the coming weeks as I try and hunt down this ECMLink issue, but should see some big updates coming late April/early May.

Just need someone to walk me through using the voltmeter to test things, and I'll be smooth sailing.
 

KCDsmDude

Proven Member
176
79
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
I've done some digging and looked up a few tutorials online, also have someone local coming to help me out. But does anyone viewing want to answer this from my OP?

"The car will not connect to Link. I have tried the following: Two laptops, both driver versions, both Link versions, three different USB cables (one brand new from ECMLink). The car recognizes the com port and that does pop up, the correct driver IS installed. Browsing Link forums, the next thing I'm going to try and do is:

- verify the OBD port is getting power/data using this link: https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/diagport-12pin
- verify that there is a connection between Pins 1 and 2 on the ECU and pins 1 and 10 on the OBD port.
- If this is true and there is continuity, open up the ECU and look for any damage


My question here is, how do I check to see if PIN 12 has connectivity to ground? I have my voltmeter set to OHMS, do I place one clamp on PIN 12, and another on a nut/bolt that's screwed into the chassis? Can I use the bolt that's near the fuse box/OBD 1 port? What kind of reading should I be expecting to see on my voltmeter? Close to zero? Should it beep if I have it set to the correct setting? I know that for Pins 1/2 to Pins 1/10 I should hear a beep.

How does one check for this? Pins 1 and 10 should not have connectivity to chassis ground and should not be connected with each other. Check that this is true. And please, explain it as if you were explaining it to a child, or a golden retriever."
 

KCDsmDude

Proven Member
176
79
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
Couple more pics I have on phone and a Dragy video. 60-90 in this video came back at 2.1s, I'd like to get that down to 1.5s range or so.
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KCDsmDude

Proven Member
176
79
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
I've done some digging and looked up a few tutorials online, also have someone local coming to help me out. But does anyone viewing want to answer this from my OP?

"The car will not connect to Link. I have tried the following: Two laptops, both driver versions, both Link versions, three different USB cables (one brand new from ECMLink). The car recognizes the com port and that does pop up, the correct driver IS installed. Browsing Link forums, the next thing I'm going to try and do is:

- verify the OBD port is getting power/data using this link: https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/diagport-12pin
- verify that there is a connection between Pins 1 and 2 on the ECU and pins 1 and 10 on the OBD port.
- If this is true and there is continuity, open up the ECU and look for any damage


My question here is, how do I check to see if PIN 12 has connectivity to ground? I have my voltmeter set to OHMS, do I place one clamp on PIN 12, and another on a nut/bolt that's screwed into the chassis? Can I use the bolt that's near the fuse box/OBD 1 port? What kind of reading should I be expecting to see on my voltmeter? Close to zero? Should it beep if I have it set to the correct setting? I know that for Pins 1/2 to Pins 1/10 I should hear a beep.

How does one check for this? Pins 1 and 10 should not have connectivity to chassis ground and should not be connected with each other. Check that this is true. And please, explain it as if you were explaining it to a child, or a golden retriever."


Quoting myself and I think I found a video explaining it/showing it.
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong:

1. To check for ground on pin 12, set the meter to OHMS, black lead to ground, red lead to pin 12. I should expect a 0.0 reading and get a beep if I turn sound on.
2. To check that pins 1 and 2 on ECU have connection to pins 1 and 10 on OBD 1 port, set meter to OHMS, place one clamp on pin 1 OBD and other on pin 1 of ECU, I should hear a beep if I selected the correct setting.
3. To check pins 1 and 10 against grounding, would I just make sure that it doesn't beep?
4. To check pin 10 is getting 4.5v, change mulitmeter setting to volts, black on ground, red attached to pin 10, and I should see 4.5v - https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/connectionproblem
 

KCDsmDude

Proven Member
176
79
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
Well, slowly but surely we are getting closer to being able to tear into this for some major upgrades. Moved the car into the house the first night I had the keys!

Also figured out the AEM uego is not calibrated correctly. I had some really bad high rpm cutting out, which I thought was spark related so I changed back to stock ignition + NGK wires; car previously had COP with no CDI. I'll be keeping the COP setup for 700+ range, if it gets there, and wire in a CDI as well. Either way, I changed the spark plugs, gapped to several different measurements, and still had the popping issue. At first we thought it was running too rich, based on the gauge , so we pulled fuel a little 5500 rpm +, it got worse. I put the original tune back in and added a few % fuel where it cut out, problem solved. Pulled hard and clean but since my gauge is incorrect, I'm not going to beat on it too hard. Replaced the plugs again and made a couple 3rd gear WOT pulls, pulled those out and plugs looked decent (based on the opinion of someone more familiar with reading plugs).

Plan is to likely have Kevin Jewer tune the car; but first I'm going to replace the AEM UEGO with the ECB-1 gauge and bosch 02 sensor I picked up, change over the the 6466 setup, and swap over to the DSS aluminum driveshaft; stock one is leaking at the yolk. I chose Kevin because he is open to tuning the car using a WB that is used to simulate the NB 02. I've printed off his check list for things to verify/make sure of before contacting him for a tune, and I will be going through all of that before hand.

Also need to dig into my high idle issue, I think I'm going to send out the current throttle body for a rebuild to TMZ Performance, my BISS screw looks like it's rusted out LOL.

Either way, hope to have some more updates soon!

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KCDsmDude

Proven Member
176
79
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
Well, got 99% moved in and started tearing into the car; but first I needed to build some type of work bench because there is no way I'm doing all of this on the ground. Will likely be building another one on the opposite side of the garage that's about a foot longer so I have over double the work space.

Next I started tearing into it; removed the tb intercooler piping, current turbo setup. Battled the usual difficult bolts, rusted and old... PB blaster saved me on a few. I'll need to heli-coil a couple of the exhaust studs as I somehow managed to mess up one with this turbo install, and one was already messed up as is. Got the turbo and manifold on for test fitting, one thing I noticed was the oil drain and the front motor mount is going to be an issue, looks like I'll be ordering the boosted fab front motor mount. https://www.boostedfabrication.com/collections/galant-vr4/products/galant-vr4-344-mount

While the car is down this time, new turbo setup, new 3" exhaust, new 2.5" IC piping (powder coated wrinkle black) rebuilt tb, changing from AEM UEGO to ECB-1 wideband kit, put the DSS driveshaft in, replace all brake lines with stainless, and upgrade the stock feed and fuel return to 6AN feed/8an return, front motor mount... anddddd taking some degreaser and cleaning the engine bay.

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KCDsmDude

Proven Member
176
79
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
Assembled one of the wastegates tonight and put the 1.7 bar (~24 psi) combo of springs in, black, blue, yellow. Removed the fuel rail, intake mani, jmf coil pack bracket in preparation of running 8 an feed/6an return and swapping over to non-ABS setup, will be using a 3an brake line size from JNZ tuning when they have it finalized for the vr4.

Sent out the TB to TMZ for cleaning and rebuild yesterday, need to ship out the 2150's to be cleaned, flow tested, and shipped back. In contact with @Kai Hefner and will be ordering his 3d printed fuel/brake line holders to fit my setup, will also be picking up his shifter bushing set as my current shifter is not 100% smooth going into first, you can feel it grind in the base of the shifter ever so slightly.

Tonight; I haven't decided what I will do, but will likely remove the stock exhaust system and drop the driveshaft, or begin to remove the ABS unit and all brake lines, also have a small battery relocation kit sitting here...

Decisions, decisions...

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KCDsmDude

Proven Member
176
79
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
Didn't get as much done as I wanted to, house stuff and other life items came up.

-Partially installed my Hallman MBC cockpit add on, thankfully I have two of those boost controllers because I lost one of the barbs/fittings so I'll just take it from the other.
-Assembled the other wastegate and put it on the setup for viewing pleasure, I will need to rotate the compressor housing and placement of the dump tubes when in the car, but for now it looks pretty.
- Removed the coolant lines flowing to the firewall. I wont ever need heat in the car as I don't drive it when it's that cold, if I do, they make jackets. I looped the lines within in each other.. BUTTT it looks terrible, so I may have someone weld them closed and remove the rubber hose all along.
-Sold my old 6262 setup

Just ordered ABS delete SS brake lines and prop valve from JNZ, as well as both front window regulators.

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Irane_Ryan

Probationary Member
1
0
Apr 23, 2021
Zurich, Europe
Didn't get as much done as I wanted to, house stuff and other life items came up.

-Partially installed my Hallman MBC cockpit add on, thankfully I have two of those boost controllers because I lost one of the barbs/fittings so I'll just take it from the other.
-Assembled the other wastegate and put it on the setup for viewing pleasure, I will need to rotate the compressor housing and placement of the dump tubes when in the car, but for now it looks pretty.
- Removed the coolant lines flowing to the firewall. I wont ever need heat in the car as I don't drive it when it's that cold, if I do, they make jackets. I looped the lines within in each other.. BUTTT it looks terrible, so I may have someone weld them closed and remove the rubber hose all along.
-Sold my old 6262 setup

Just ordered ABS delete SS brake lines and prop valve from JNZ, as well as both front window regulators,software and employee time tracking software

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Can you, please, add some arrows to you photos
 

KCDsmDude

Proven Member
176
79
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
Not much to update, didn't touch the car and won't until I get some other parts in. ABS delete kit from JNZ is supposed to be here soon. Boosted Fab front motor mount looks like it's showing up on Saturday.

Started on a second work bench to give myself over double the work space.
 

KCDsmDude

Proven Member
176
79
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
Got the following done on Friday evening/Saturday

- Second work bench done
- Removed the ABS unit and all the front lines - except the ones in the wheel well, haven't taken those off just yet. The stainless line/non- abs prop valve shows up tomorrow from Fedex. Damn ABS unit itself weighs 19 lbs!
- Boosted Fab front motor mount - had to buy this one due to oil drain/compressor housing clearance - I need to run to Ace Hardware and get a new M12 x 1.25 bolt for one of the two bolts that hold the motor mount to the block; the head is kind of beat up and don't want to deal with a stripped head when trying to torque this thing down or remove it again.
-Moving my fan to opposite side of the radiator - puller to a pusher - gives me a lot more clearance/space in the engine bay.
-Mounted up the turbo setup with the dump tubes and downpipe attached - pulled back off car to tighten up v-band clamps and will do a final check when installed on vehicle.
- Took some engine degreaser to this frame and will continue to clean up the years of oil/grunk/debris that's accumulated in the engine bay.

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KCDsmDude

Proven Member
176
79
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
Another question on the vacuum lines for the wastegates and MBC; I'm planning to mimic the previous setup but wanted to be sure I wasn't missing anything. https://www.maperformance.com/products/tial-mv-s-38mm-v-band-external-wastegate-tial-mv-s38mm

This tial gates came with plugs for the additional air ports around the base of the gate, but they didn't come with plugs for the water holes..

1 - do I leave the water holes open? Seems like it would be easy to get debris in here and f*** up a gate?
2 - previously the vacuum lines ran from the air port on the side/base of the wastegate to the boost controller, with the top air port open. I plan on doing that exact same thing for my twin setup; both vacuum sources from side of the wastegates to a T, that T to the boost controller, and the top ports are open. Then the other side of the boost controller runs directly to the nipple on the compressor housing
 

KCDsmDude

Proven Member
176
79
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
Another question on the vacuum lines for the wastegates and MBC; I'm planning to mimic the previous setup but wanted to be sure I wasn't missing anything. https://www.maperformance.com/products/tial-mv-s-38mm-v-band-external-wastegate-tial-mv-s38mm

This tial gates came with plugs for the additional air ports around the base of the gate, but they didn't come with plugs for the water holes..

1 - do I leave the water holes open? Seems like it would be easy to get debris in here and f*** up a gate?
2 - previously the vacuum lines ran from the air port on the side/base of the wastegate to the boost controller, with the top air port open. I plan on doing that exact same thing for my twin setup; both vacuum sources from side of the wastegates to a T, that T to the boost controller, and the top ports are open. Then the other side of the boost controller runs directly to the nipple on the compressor housing

Answering my own question based on what I looked at yesterday. Water cooled ports can be left open to allow heat to escape, most applications won't need it. Top air port is only used for electronic boost controllers.

Wanting to replace the colored 16an radiator hose and fittings with black line and fittings, as well as do the fuel system. Decisions, decisions...

As for the fuel system, has anyone used the Vibrant lines with success? https://stmtuned.com/products/vibrant-nylon-braided-flex-hose-black
 
Last edited:

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
7,914
3,870
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Make sure you fill the gates up with water before plugging them...……………………...
ROFL
Just kidding.
I have had connectivity issues with link and the only way I could get the car to "talk" was to start the car and connect then. IDK why it does it, but that is what I do when it happens to me. Sometimes just a bump of the starter while I am trying to connect will get it. No rhyme or reason to it and it has never been mentioned as a fix in any FAQ that I have read.
You will really like the Vibrant line. It will make you say "why did I ever fool with that stainless stuff" after you get to work with it.
 

KCDsmDude

Proven Member
176
79
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
Make sure you fill the gates up with water before plugging them...……………………...
ROFL
Just kidding.
I have had connectivity issues with link and the only way I could get the car to "talk" was to start the car and connect then. IDK why it does it, but that is what I do when it happens to me. Sometimes just a bump of the starter while I am trying to connect will get it. No rhyme or reason to it and it has never been mentioned as a fix in any FAQ that I have read.
You will really like the Vibrant line. It will make you say "why did I ever fool with that stainless stuff" after you get to work with it.

Should I put some water wetter in them? maybe some distilled water too? 80/20 split? haaaa.

It's been so long since I've touched stainless line (10+ years) that I've forgotten the pain.

My Link issues have been weird, very weird. I redid some of the grounding connections and then the car magically connected.

At times the car will just lock itself and the alarm light will come on in the dash. It also has a weird starting issue; sometimes it fires right up, other times you turn the key and it feels like the starter doesn't even attempt to turn over; fuel pump kicks on and battery is new. Will likely replace the starter while it's torn apart as well.
 
Last edited:

KCDsmDude

Proven Member
176
79
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri

KCDsmDude

Proven Member
176
79
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
Alignment should not matter at all and just leave the water ports open. Make sure an extra air ports are plugged obviously.

Fair enough. Figured I'd double check.

Got a decent amount done.

-Driveshaft and t-case out to swap over to a DSS aluminum drive shaft.
-JMF ignition bracket installed as well.
-Hallman cockpit MBC add on - now I can adjust boost from my drivers seat.
-Turbo setup on the car, oil feed and drain on... when I was tightening down the manifold the LAST EXHAUST STUD decided to come out... do I need to take everything off and helicoil that one, or is the exhaust manifold going to be secure with 7/8 on tight? It's the far left, upper row when looking at the car.

Also decided to wait until next winter to take the car down for fuel lines and SS rear brake lines, I'd rather enjoy it this summer/fall; only reason it's down is because I wanted more power. I'm finding guys making 600 whp+ with stock fuel lines, I have the pump for it.

This coming week I hope to.. bleed the brakes, install the driveshaft and t-case again (changing t-case fluid while it's out), install new starter, wire in the ecb-1 items and remove the old wiring fore aem uego, hopefully reinstall the intake manifold, cleaned injectors, and rebuilt throttle body by TMZ.

The instructions for the ECB-1 say to put the sensor 24" from the turbo, but the bung that came from Morrison fab is more like 6" from the turbo. Is the only reason they advise putting it so far away from the turbo to increase life of the sensor, i'm really only concerned with reading correct AFR.

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