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92 Galant

Year
1992
Model/Trim
Mitsubishi Galant VR-4

KCDsmDude

Proven Member
139
58
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
Post a log and I'll look.
Will tonight, going to try and blip the throttle for 30 seconds to see if it catches. Car was previously tuned by RRT, so I would ASSUME it should hold idle better once I get it going; was battling idle surge and the TB itself looked horrible and stock. Front O2 is simulated as well.
 

We're on Boost

Proven Member
1,236
170
Aug 25, 2007
Seattle area, Washington
I'll never buy a cheap starter again. I bought a new Bosch unit and it fired the car up so easily. I don't know about anyone rebuilding them. I'm sure they're out there.

Yeah I bought a New Bosch starter in 2013 (from NAPA) and it still seems fine. I just checked the part number to see if it has changed since then. It's still the same. SR298N. If it ends with an X it's a reman.

BTW OP did you notice that your volt meter readings that were big numbers like 400 or 200, those were millivolts, not volts. Still plenty funky, but anyway, in post #45. Sometimes autoranging is a pain in the butt, which is why these meters usually give you a way to turn that off.
 

Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,434
2,253
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
You should be able to choose lc1. They (current Innovate widebands) all have the same voltage range. It's not the Bosch 4.9 that determines it but the controller box to my knowledge.
 

KCDsmDude

Proven Member
139
58
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
BLT to 30 psi fine just now. Can't get it to idle. Attached log shows me revving it up to keep it on for around 30 seconds in hopes that it would catch idle.

No fiav, simulating idle switch, blt to 30 psi, throttle body rebuilt by TMZ, open downpipe, Link settings are how I got the car...

-Another issue I'm having is the ecb-1 gauge shows nothing but "EtE10" in the AFR location. And yes, it's plugged in.
-And the TPS adjustment tool is not making any suggestions. I assumed it would have with all that I changed on the car
 

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KCDsmDude

Proven Member
139
58
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
How are you telling that the IAT was dead? Gonna have to see if extreme will reimburse me for it. Didn’t change anything except the IAT between two logs.

I’ll double check the CAS wiring tomorrow.

I’ll check the fuel pressure tomorrow, will kick pump on with Link.
 

Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,434
2,253
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
How are you telling that the IAT was dead? Gonna have to see if extreme will reimburse me for it. Didn’t change anything except the IAT between two logs.

I’ll double check the CAS wiring tomorrow.

I’ll check the fuel pressure tomorrow, will kick pump on with Link.
The iat was reading -40 degrees
 

Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,434
2,253
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Is this car on gas or e85? Battery needs a little bit of a charge too. If the car shows 40psi when pumps kicks on it should be good enough to start.
 

KCDsmDude

Proven Member
139
58
Oct 11, 2020
KANSAS CITY, Missouri
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attempted to catch idle. But had to blip throttle to keep it alive. It’s like it falls down on its face and doesn’t attempt to stop around 950 rpm.


Additionally. I have two bungs on my downpipe and one of them is a lot taller than the other. I have my wideband in that one, is this correct? This whole time my gauge in the car only reads EtE10, even in the above video, never displayed a lamba amount
 

Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,434
2,253
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
For some reason the car isn't going into closed loop. Try backing out the biss screw all the way and see if that gets it run. Then try going to a deadtime of -100. Something weird going on. ALso try a NB switch point of 2.43. Also zero out the maf clamp ve table sliders.

Edit: Ohh, the car is locked in open loop.
 
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