92 Galant

[KCDsmDude]

For simplicity's sake, I would really consider running an isc and running the car in closed loop unless you're going to have a professional tuning it for you.

Kevin Jewer will be tuning it, would tag him but don’t know his username on here.

i don’t trust myself to tune it.

 

[Vegas Smith]

@95GSXracer

 

[KCDsmDude]

Is my brake booster supposed to be this far away from firewall?

tried messing with idle switch screw, backed it in and out. Dsm link was suggesting adjustments like -13 and 110%, when I turned it in. So backed it back out so adjustments were -6 and 102%.

BISS screw all way in or out, no impact.

Car will hold idle at 12-1300 rpm if throttle is 4-5% open. Dies the moment you take foot off gas.

does that mean too much air is getting into it and it’s dying? Since 4-5% throttle would add more fuel?

 

[Kevin Jewer]

I'd bump the VE up to 65 in the whole top left corner where it's ~55s, and open up the BISS enough to get it to idle on it's own. What that done, there should be better data that will give a better idea of where to go next.

Edit> I see BISS is already all the way out, open the throttle plate somewhat instead. If it has a 1g style idle switch the factory setting is 15/16ths of one turn from fully closed. On any other TB just turn the throttle stop screw in a bit further to open the throttle a bit more. Any time you change throttle plate idle position, rerun the TPS Adjust tool in ECMlink.

 

[KCDsmDude]

changed to 65 and tried getting it to idle in 5-6 various different BISS settings, car just falls on it's face.

Also noticed that when I turn motor off, sometimes there is a ticking sound. You can't hear it when it's running, or so my gf claims. But this def sounds like it's from inside the motor. Video incoming.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Ticking video

 

[Vegas Smith]

At this point I think you need to start checking the mechanical health of the motor. Timing marks, compression test, leakdown test.

 

[KCDsmDude]

At this point I think you need to start checking the mechanical health of the motor. Timing marks, compression test, leakdown test.

I’ll get a compression test done and check the timing marks on the cams sometime this week.

was hoping it would idle just finnnnneeee since it did “before” but now has a rebuilt and leak free TB.

when I boost leak test I’m using a 4” tester on the turbo, I’ve seen some others test using a tester on the tb elbow. What’s the reason for this? Shouldn’t testing at the turbo also catch any and all leaks, from intake manifold to turbo?

 

[Vegas Smith]

Ideally you would test at the turbo but once you start testing on these 4” inlets it becomes a real pain in the ass. The testers want to fly off due to immense pressure. I just check at my tb elbow. Tiny leaks at the inter cooler piping are less important on SD cars but still should be ruled out.

 

[Kevin Jewer]

If the throttle body is all that changed you almost certainly need to open up the throttle plate at idle as I mentioned. That is something that is adjustable, and 99% of DSMers know nothing about it for some reason.

As for the ticking, I'd say that's a bomb, and I'd GTFO.

 

[KCDsmDude]

If the throttle body is all that changed you almost certainly need to open up the throttle plate at idle as I mentioned. That is something that is adjustable, and 99% of DSMers know nothing about it for some reason.

As for the ticking, I'd say that's a bomb, and I'd GTFO.

For items that impact idle (I think), that is all I changed. But between last time car idled and now it's had...

new turbo setup
new driveshaft
new IAT sensor
rebuilt TB
cleaned and tested 2150's
magnus fuel rail
all new vacuum lines
changed from AEM uego to ECB-1 wideband kit

But holding throttle partially open - few % the car stays alive... so opening the plate to allow more air to pass through makes sense. I'll try that and report back.

The ticking concerns me, and seems to have developed out of nowhere, so that's the next "issue"

 

[Kevin Jewer]

Yup, the absolute number one factor in idle speed is airflow bypassed around the throttle (throttle plate opening, BISS, FIAV, ISC, and vac leaks). AFR (normally closed loop and not adjustable) and timing (if idleSW = 1 the ECU will control timing to fine tune idle speed to target on TPS/RPM tab) are factors as well, but airflow is the biggest.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Yup, the absolute number one factor in idle speed is airflow bypassed around the throttle (throttle plate opening, BISS, FIAV, ISC, and vac leaks). AFR (normally closed loop and not adjustable) and timing (if idleSW = 1 the ECU will control timing to fine tune idle speed to target on TPS/RPM tab) are factors as well, but airflow is the biggest.

Car is locked in open loop since front 02 has the WB in it. I've read your idle page on sixsigma a couple times now, going to try and open the throttle plate more than I would assume to be acceptable and go from there.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Kevin Jewer]

Strangely, it's often a good sign when it needs more air bypass. All vac leaks will result in needing to close the throttle more, and that's the case 99% of the time. If it turns out to just need more air, that's usually not a bad problem to have.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Screwed the idle switch screw all the way in and started car, it actually attempted to catch idle. Bounced between 6-1000 for four-five attempts and then died.

but it was so far in that my throttle was registering a few % open, and tps volts were so far off .63.

I backed it back out until I could get 0% and .63v. And didn’t have more time to mess with it tonicht, so I’ll mess with tps adjust and all that tomorrow.

let’s say it’s reading 3% open throttle now, will tps adjust set that as my new 0%?

 

[Vegas Smith]

Correct, that’s the purpose of tps adjust. I don’t know if @95GSXracer saw but you have no isc. I’ve never dealt with a non-isc car so maybe they need a much higher idle? Maybe Kevin knows.

 

[KCDsmDude]

If all else fails, may try this "mod". Just saw one posted up for sale on here too so I'm gonna snag it just in case.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-add-a-dsm-iac-to-any-aftermarket-throttle-body.448261/

 

[Kevin Jewer]

You'll want to adjust the TPS to the throttle position, not the throttle position to the TPS. Let it warm up and see if it'll idle on its own. It's the only way to see the rest of the data to know what else it might need. Rarely it is a one thing fix, you'll have 4 or 5 things to adjust once you can see them properly.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Meanwhile, likely going to order this cross member to replace current one. I need more space. The current dump tubes for wastegates rub against the stock crossmember, it's too wide. Likely going poly over a solid motor mount insert.

1G 3-Piece Crossmember

Lightweight, yet very strong front crossmembers than fit 1G Manual, 1G Automatic and now GVR-4 cars . This is the 3-piece design. It is made out of Docol R8 steel (1.65" 0.083 wall) and have a two bends in them, that mimic the factory piece, which also allows you for greater clearance for your...

www.bulfab.com

Also noticed a comment on the GVR4 forums, someone said "hose little plates that are bolted to the chassis and stock cross members. Do not run the car with out them they are there for a reason". Haven't even looked for these said plates, but I'll make a note.

Also, I have the JMfab front motor mount, hope these pair together nicely.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Well, that's what I get for not double checking. Had the old address in the ship to field and pressed order.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Got the Bulfab 3-piece crossmember installed, only have a couple questions. Overall fitment was pretty decent, the only bolt I'm having a really hard time with is the motor mount, top bolt, doesn't want to tighten up. Few questions.

1. Does anything need to go between the frame of the car and the Bulfab piece, looks like it mounts up flush to the body and when torqued down, appears correct.
2. First pic - this is the drivers side piece, am I supposed to bolt this into the hole that is closer to the drivers side, or passenger side. If I line it up with the "passenger" side, it cross directly under the oil drain bolt and will just get coated every oil change.
3. Third pic - these little metal pieces, how do they factor into this installation? They were zip tied to the links when it arrived, and I thought they might attach to the front section of the cross member, but the supplied bolts are too large to thread through there (Second pic). Do these go between the crossmember piece and the subframe of the car? I also found this thread. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/bulfab-crossmember-install.440474/ - the second pic of the first post, you can see the little metal pieces, but I also see that another member posted and it appears one is attaching it "below" the frame, another is attaching it "above" the frame. Based on what I'm seeing in the car, there is no way I can attach it "above" the frame like that person has in the first post, second pic; my oil pan would prevent that.

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[KCDsmDude]

After searching the interwebs I found another Galant with the same setup. hopefully this information helps someone in the future.

Looks like those little metal "bushing" go between the bulfab piece and the actual frame of the car. Additionally, I notice this person has the round metal piece (blue circle that's not circling the correct portion). I did NOT install those, I just have the nut torqued down to 50 ft./lbs. and it's making direct contact with the Bulfab piece.

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[Tyler_Race]

Sweet build. I picked up a stock vr4 back in March with a bad motor. Just got it going a few weeks ago but its been a blast daily. Your setups looking great. Ill stay tuned for updates man.

 

[KCDsmDude]

Shot from under the car.

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[KCDsmDude]

is my starter supposed to be making this clicking sound 60+ seconds after shutting car