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92 Galant

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Log goes with video in next post.

I've tried various positions of the BISS and idle plate switch. The only thing I can think of is to add an IAC or something, but that requires drilling into the intake manifold and TB elbow like so.. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-add-a-dsm-iac-to-any-aftermarket-throttle-body.448261/

I have a rebuilt TB, just not sure I see where one would even attach to this thing, has FIAV block off plate and no ISC.

I have an S90 here that has an ISC, but the connector doesn't look like it lines up with the one I have in my car. Assuming this is an updated version or a 2g vs 1g one.

Another 3-5 hours on this idle issue, almost at the point I'm going to inquire about shipping it to someone smarter than me to fix it, nothing like paying 2k + to get this piece of shit to idle.
 
1. Planning on running through this list of shit as a last hope. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-tune-a-1g-v3-sd-ecmlink-with-no-maf.395564/

I would have assumed the car would start right up and work better. But no. Wanted to get @95GSXracer a proper idling and running car by now but the world has other plans.

2. Would a faulty wideband cause issues here, regardless of how long I have the car on at partial throttle, gauge doesn’t read AFR.

3. I saw a thread that went through each plug/connector in the engine bay, listed the wires running to it, and had a pic of the plug. I can’t recall where I saw it but it would greatly help here. I may try and put back in the idle switch connector so I can stop simulating that. I dunno yet. Just getting prepared in case that’s what needs to happen.

Hoping that document does some good.
 
The plug in your hand is the injector resister delete which is required for hi-z injectors on DSMs. At this point I would just buy a stock throttle body off someone and pair it with your isc and run it like a street car with isc and closed loop.
 
Vegas Smith said:
The plug in your hand is the injector resister delete which is required for hi-z injectors on DSMs. At this point I would just buy a stock throttle body off someone and pair it with your isc and run it like a street car with isc and closed loop.
Click to expand...

I had an s90 laying around that had the lower half of the TB I need, so I'll inspect that and see if it's something I can use. I need a FIAV bypass plate.

With my car only having the wideband/simulating the front 02, am I going to run into issues with the ISC operating?
 
Vegas Smith said:
It wont have anything to do with the isc but I would run everything as close to oem as possible right now.
Click to expand...

Fair enough.

found an extra tb I had laying around. The fiav lines are welded shut here so I prefer to use this one. But 2 of the 5 screws are stripped... why the f*** would they install these weak ass screws on this. They stripped with minimal pressure. Ended up getting the outside one with pliers. Gonna try tapping inside one with a small flathead to loosen her up

View attachment 631420
 
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ISC wired in...

and it idles. Fired her up, gave partial throttle for 45 seconds, got out of the car and it held an idle. Attempted to stall once but caught itself.

Also, my buddy wants to sell me his built 2g, so I'm considering finishing the Galant and posting it for sale - not sure on price tho, or if I should try and keep both LOL. The only major issue with the 2g is that it has a custom wiring harness, and the car DOESN'T shut off when you remove the key. Owner said he has to purposely stall the car out to get it to shut off. And has to disconnect the battery - car acts as if it's in permanent ACC mode.

For the Galant - before I attempt to drive it

-waiting on wastegate seal between manifold and the gate
-BLT again
-re-check tightness of all subframe parts
-figure out why my ecb-1 isn't displaying any lambda value
 
Had the Galant tinted yesterday. 25% all the way around and 35% on the windshield.

The ecb-1 kit is finally showing lambda - the gauge has three display screens, and shows lambda on two of them... and I cycled through them the other day, the lambda displays on one of the two displays that is has a spot for, but not the other.

This weekend I hope to get the idle/cruise tuning done on it but I had a general question before I begin.

-The car is locked in open loop, but for idle and cruise tuning I'll need to uncheck that, correct? Car is running .83 lambda at idle, so very rich. Based on ECMlink fueltrim update points, car ignores stft in open loop.
-The ecb-1 display is showing in link correctly, but my AFRatioEST table shows 14.7, because it's solely an e85 car should I change this to be stoich for e85? Does ecmlink have the ability to show this the ECB-1 display in Lambda?
 
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Vegas Smith said:
You don't have to change the scale. You can change the scale on gauge to read gas scale and it will be match in link.
Click to expand...

Meaning I can have the ECB-1 display the equivalent AFR in pump gas, even tho it's sending me lambda/e85 afr?

I like the idea of tuning using just lambda and not worrying about these conversions and pump vs e85, etc :)
 
KCDsmDude said:
Meaning I can have the ECB-1 display the equivalent AFR in pump gas, even tho it's sending me lambda/e85 afr?

I like the idea of tuning using just lambda and not worrying about these conversions and pump vs e85, etc :)
Click to expand...
So, e85 and gasoline use the same scale on ecmlink. I don't fully understand it so I'm not going to try and explain it, but you don't change any scaling between e85 and gas. You just use slightly different WOT afr targets. For example, some people may target 10.5 if using gas and 11.5 if using e85. Most people in the US seem to use gas scale so it's all preference. I would say 99% of dsmers use the gas scale just because most people have grown up running gas and the gas scale.
 
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Vegas Smith said:
So, e85 and gasoline use the same scale on ecmlink. I don't fully understand it so I'm not going to try and explain it, but you don't change any scaling between e85 and gas. You just use slightly different WOT afr targets. For example, some people may target 10.5 if using gas and 11.5 if using e85. Most people in the US seem to use lambda so it's all preference. I would say 99% of dsmers use lambda just because most people have grown up running gas and the gas scale.
Click to expand...

Ya, I keep confusing myself going back between lamda, gas afr, e85 afr LOL.. But with more time I'll get used to it.

I'm sure more silly questions are in order, butttt I'd rather ask the dumb questions than blow up a built car; cheaper on the wallet that way.
 
Decided to tint the Galant, so glad I did, love how it looks. Won't look too bad either after I have the trunk/roof wrapped to mask the messed up clear coat, and give the rest of the body a good waxing/paint correction. Thrilling to think about this cruising down the highway at night with the open downpipe LOL.

Sorry for the mower, that thing is a whole other issue in itself.

Still waiting to attempt to idle tune, it's been above 100 here and I'm not about that life.

View attachment 632080

View attachment 632081
 
Trying to dial in the idle a bit more; car still "hunts" for an idle a little bit so airflowperrev is hard to get down to what it's supposed to be. STFT are bouncing between 1-3% in the current state, but it idles right at stoich now; between 1.0 and 1.02. Rain in the forecast for the next week so that may delay any cruise tuning.

While the car is idling; has a lot of rumble to it and tps reads 1% and volts read .67, turn the car off and that goes to 0% and tps volts to .63 like I expected; I would assume this 1% reading is also impacting fuel trims. Tried tightening down my tps bolt and ensuring all connections secure.

Ordered the innovate oil pressure gauge around two weeks ago, just waiting on that to arrive.

Car is slowly coming together.

View attachment 632698
 
KCDsmDude said:
The wiring in this car is old and a lot of it will be replaced come winter time.

What is everyone doing for soldering irons/pens? I was going to pick up something like this.. Amazon product ASIN B08YVTTNPC
Any feedback on this product? Or if you have a personal preference drop it in here.
Click to expand...

I use a power probe - same thing as you have posted there, but a little cheaper. ( Amazon product ASIN B001DIE9BO )

Then I use non-insulated crimp connectors, crimp my connection, torch the middle of the connector and drop solder in on both sides. IF I have enough room, I opt for my mini torch over the power probe as it heats up quicker. After that I run my heat shrink. Maybe overkill for some, but its a rock solid connection I don't have to worry about later on.

You can get non-insulated crimp connectors at O'Reilleys/Advance, but better to order bulk from Amazon if you have some time to wait.

View attachment 632701

View attachment 632702
 
What’s everyone doing for electronic boost control?

I had the black, blue, yellow spring in my 38 mm gates. Boost wouldn’t go below 34 psi.

I removed the yellow, expecting 17 psi or so, car held 23-24 psi through two gears, lambda read fine.

Turned the Halman mbc to the right a little, 27 psi, little more and now it won’t go below 37-42psi 😂. I have the cockpit add on too, so adjusting while I drive. I turned it all the way to the left and it wouldn’t go any lower.

Edit: All new vacuum lines, everything is in tact, no holes, BLT good to 30 psi. Next up I'm going to try and just drive it with the line from compressor housing going straight to gates. Has the black/blue spring combo and based on Tial's charts that should be 17 psi.
 
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