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$50 Paint Job [merged]

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Me and my friend took his spoiler off earlier today to try this method and it looks to be coming along great. We went with Gloss Black (rust-oleum professional ;)) and used a 2 (paint) to 1 (mineral spirits) ratio. It smoothed out nicely and we had no problems with bubbles. We already prepped it and got the 1st and second coat down. Now he's just waiting a little while to wet sand and then apply the 3rd coat to let it sit over night. I'm pretty excited at the progress and how fairly easy this is going. Of course, about 83% of the smoothness of our project is owed to 420A
 
Me and my friend took his spoiler off earlier today to try this method and it looks to be coming along great. We went with Gloss Black (rust-oleum professional ;)) and used a 2 (paint) to 1 (mineral spirits) ratio. It smoothed out nicely and we had no problems with bubbles. We already prepped it and got the 1st and second coat down. Now he's just waiting a little while to wet sand and then apply the 3rd coat to let it sit over night. I'm pretty excited at the progress and how fairly easy this is going. Of course, about 83% of the smoothness of our project is owed to 420A

Good stuff man, heres my other DSM I got it running for the first time in 2 years today.

I bought it with half a motor all torn apart and neglected sitting in grass taller than the car for 800 bucks about 4 months back, but it runs and it going to be badass when I get through with it. Im starting a big thread after all my DSMs complete their transactions. Heres the pics.

The Red is after I pulled all the crap the previous owner had left in ( oldblock, tranny random shit ) then I got it all sanded down and cleaned up for the paint.
81646d1206499281-420a-engine-swap-redcar1.gif
 

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That sanding turned out beautiful, and with all the DSM's you got lying all over the place you should be able to make a mean Frankenstein DSM. ;)
Maybe we should start calling you Dr. Matt :D
 
That sanding turned out beautiful, and with all the DSM's you got lying all over the place you should be able to make a mean Frankenstein DSM. ;)
Maybe we should start calling you Dr. Matt :D

Haha yea that sounds good. Another Thing I did when I used the black rustoleum on my intake mani is I hit it with a heat gun on medium for about 20-30 minuted sort of like an oven would act...It dried the paint alot faster ( obviously ) but it also seemed stronger like it cured better.

Alot of folks on other forums are saying after your final wet sand with say 2000 grit..you should wait about a week or two before trying to buff so the paint fully hardens. Just a thought.
 
Yeah, that's they only area we're not too sure on and defiantly need to read and learn more about is the buffing and polishing. We did steal his mom's hair dryer to help speed up the drying process :sneaky:. The first coat only took about an hour and a half to fully dry. The second coat is going on about 5 hours now and it's still relatively tacky.
 
Cool man just take your time though. I had about 8 hours between coats sometime more if I was tired at night. Make sure its completely dry.
 
i have been thinning w/m ineral spirits to spray..working well

I tried it with mineral spirts and it ran badly. The acetone evaporates much faster and I layed good coats with it. But hey if it worked for you, all the better.:thumb: Nice job on that engine bay!!:rocks:

To date I have'nt had any problems with my hood with paint seperation between the enamel and clear.
 
hey guys im going to home depot tomorrow morning and going to buy some professional gloss white and a white primer too. wish me luck!
 
I tried it with mineral spirts and it ran badly. The acetone evaporates much faster and I layed good coats with it. But hey if it worked for you, all the better.:thumb: Nice job on that engine bay!!:rocks:

To date I have'nt had any problems with my hood with paint seperation between the enamel and clear.

Im gonna try the acetone then, I did have runs with mineral spirits but I just took my time and worked around it. Ill give that a shot to see if it will be all around better.

Goodluck above me, the white is a nice color.
 
This is what it says on the back of the can right - mix with accetone. I'm still priming, but hopefully I'll be painting next week or so. I chose Safety Red color of the Profesional Rustoleum. I'm still confused about the door jambs, because I'll have to take all the doors and the front fenders.

here is my progress so far

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hey 420 just a quick question.
Me and my buddy have been trying this method for the past couple of days on his spoiler and we on about coat 6. Well it's getting coverage but everytime we wetsand it it gets the "orange peel" look to it....but not the texture. It's still smoothed out from the wet sanding but that awful orange peel look still comes back. Then when we apply the next coat and let it dry the orange peel look goes away...
any tips?:confused:
 
Hey you have to do 2 coats then wet sand, otherwise you will start to the the factory color through the new paint. Let me know if thats how you are doing it.
 
yeah. that is how we were doing it.. :beatentodeath:
But after it started doing that then we began doing two coats... it's starting to turn out better.
I do have a question about the last 2 coats though. Did you wetsand and the end and then buffer? or did you just buffer right after the last couple of coats dried?
 
you are supposed to wetsand with 2000 then buff to shine.., but bufffing should come weeks later remember.
 
I see. Wet sand it enough to just smooth it out? and then is driving it for a week before you buff it going to affect it? or are we stuck with just letting it sit in his garage? haha That might be a dumb question but we just want to get the best results :thumb:
 
I see. Wet sand it enough to just smooth it out? and then is driving it for a week before you buff it going to affect it? or are we stuck with just letting it sit in his garage? haha That might be a dumb question but we just want to get the best results :thumb:

I have driven mine for a month and some on the last wetsand. I want it to bake in the spring sun at some hot temps before I go and buff. You should be fine after a week though I suppose...the original guy did it all in one week.
 
Having done this to a spare hood. The results are decent for what they are but if you are anal about how it turns out than this wouldnt be the solution for you. I coated a hood with 10+ thick layers. In between coats i just lightly scuffed the surface incase any dust dried on it. After all the coats fully dried a few days I took sanding block and DA and did part of the hood. Reasons being since you are taking the paint down smooth anyways you might as well do it at the end and take it all down to make it smooth as in a real 2 stage. Results came out good but if you are a painter/detailer like myself then you will notice the lack of depth and shine.
 
I hear you on the perfection thing, but my dd just needed some paint I only paid 2000 for it, it was not getting 2000+ dollars of paint work. Anyway heres the bumper for the 800 dollar car. Turned out real nice and thats only the first coat. I switched to acetone because of what was waid above and it worked out alot better.
 

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I hear you on the perfection thing, but my dd just needed some paint I only paid 2000 for it, it was not getting 2000+ dollars of paint work. Anyway heres the bumper for the 800 dollar car. Turned out real nice and thats only the first coat. I switched to acetone because of what was waid above and it worked out alot better.

That turned out amazing. Did you use any special method to get into the small place like in the front of the bumper?
or just an even spray?
 
just an even spray and yes its the aluminum w/ 50/50 acetone. Looks like toyota quick silver in person
 
420a
looking really nice!! as for my car i decided to step it aside and get the car running before i start with painting it. just gotta pull the motor and drop in new pistons and rings. after that then i can finally get the car painted. anyways keep up the excellent work!!! and dang painting three cars...wow!!..LOL
 
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