For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.
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I see. I managed to turn off my speed sensor DI because for some reason I thought they didn't have one.
You have to do any sort of calibration for your speed sensor to work? Mines setup just as the factory vr4 tune from the base map file and doesn't show anything for wheel speed?
I never touched anything in regard to the speed sensor, and I don't recall ever seeing speed anywhere in logs. I'll look through some old logs to see if shows up when I get home later.
Hmm, now that I look bad I dont see anything for wheel speed. I guess I never noticed.
Yeah, it's pretty. However, with new technology with these it's more technology more problems. Lots of problems to iron out.I just now sped through the Powertune Dash user manual. Looks like a cool thing. One of the things you can do if you have an ECU with CAN bus, like Link and Haltech and so-forth. I noticed they show the stock Evo X ecu as one example. I'm just dabbling in the 21st century here.
Well damn. I wonder if the pull-up resister needs enabled. I know I had to enable it for my Ethenol content sensor DI
CAN stuff is so cool. I hopefully one day will get a CAN Keypad installed for my stuff to use cruise control and maybe different boost maps.I just now sped through the Powertune Dash user manual. Looks like a cool thing. One of the things you can do if you have an ECU with CAN bus, like Link and Haltech and so-forth. I noticed they show the stock Evo X ecu as one example. I'm just dabbling in the 21st century here.
I really don't know much about that except that they exist! I mean, if I watch in Task Manager, Performance, Ethernet, while streaming a YouTube video, it's real clear that the data is coming in chunks. Those might not be the packets, but I've seen packets talked about as a thing. And that's about it haha!
Yup, I don't know how many new problems I want per year anymore. Mostly I like to know about stuff, even if I'm not going to go there.
Can confirm the pull-up resistor does need to be enabled. Although speed is all over the place in the log.
What parameter are you loggin to get speed?
Either LF wheel speed or Driven wheel speed. I wonder if the driven wheel slip filter needs adjusted.
makomotorsport.com
Oh dang. That's pretty customizable too. I'll have to keep that in mindMitsubishi Eclipse / DSM Eagle Talon 1st Gen 89-94 Dash Mount
Mako Motorsport plug and play dash cluster mounts for the AEM CD5 and CD7, Emtron ED5 and ED7, Haltech iC-7, AIM MXS, MXP, MXG, MXL2, MXM and PDM, ECUMaster ADU5 and ADU7, Fueltech FT450, FT550, FT500 and FT600, Holley 6.86" EFI and 7", Microtech 7", Motec C125, C127 and CDL3, Powetune Digital...
Keep in mid that the cost adds up quick when you start adding back-in the turn signals, brights etc icons that you take for granted with stock dash.
Thank you sir, it's by far the cheapest dash you can get with CAN abilities.
, your car has come a long way in the last few years man, can you post a rundown of your new motor? Like rods, pistons compression etc, what are your goals with it? Hopefully a dyno video in the future?
Frickin 1Ga guys
It's a 2.0L with 9:0 Arias pistons, Pauter x-beam rods, stock crank, no girdle. Built by Huy Tran at Inline Racing here in Houston. Still the same Curt Brown 2G head. ARP l-19s, arp washer inserts into the head, Mitsu MLS head gasket, o-ringed block.Just noticed in that video your black engine bay, looks way better than it used too
Yeah, still cant get the wideband to read right on display. Just fixed the fuel level though. It's fully customizable but very hard to use (in my opinion). I just one of their stock templates and I think it looks great.Nice to hear it running!
It sounds like a hybrid !
Oh maybe that's the fan you have in front of it there?
It sounds like a constant 260 Hz, matching it with a tone generator. Doesn't vary pitch with the engine speed.
Anyway the engine sounds good!
Oh I think I see your base fuel pressure must be about 50 psi am I right?
And the other psi must be your oil pressure - the one that's running between 20 and 60 something.
I no longer have an MPI relay (big mistake). The ignition outputs are just moved around. I can send my settings if you need.
