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ECMlink Wideband dropping to 0 during WOT pulls

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Joshrojas98

Probationary Member
4
1
Jul 28, 2022
Omaha, Nebraska
During tuning I am running into an issue on DSMLink where it’ll give me my over all fuel trim during driving and light boost but during wide open throttle pulls it’s reading 0 as in it saying it doesn’t need correction which is not true haha..

Any help? I am currently trying to tune on 1220cc injectors in e-85 and a garret T28 turbo
 
I'm a bit confused on what you're trying to say because widebands don't normally read 0. Can you post a log please?
 
@habitatguy187 has the answer. WOT puts it into Open Loop so no feedback from sensors.
 
To add, the way you figure out if you need fuel correction during open loop / WOT is to compare your AFRest to your Wideband reading.

Usually if you're on a MAF then you can reference the loggable value "WBFactor", which gives you a percentage difference between AFRest and Wideband reading. If you're leaner than your target AFR, richen up your mixture at those RPMs/Load cells and/or tweak your MAFComp sliders.
 
To add, the way you figure out if you need fuel correction during open loop / WOT is to compare your AFRest to your Wideband reading. Usually if you're on MAF then you can reference the loggable value "WBFactor", which gives you a percentage difference between AFRest and Wideband reading. If you're leaner than your target AFR, richen up your mixture at those RPMs/Load cells and/or tweak your MAFComp sliders.
MAF or SD. May richen or lean the mixture in different ways but the WBFactor still works with both 😉
 
@Joshrojas98 The wideband measures the air fuel mixture in the exhaust system and will never read zero when using AFR (air fuel ratio), not sure about this when using Lambda. Fuel trims are percentage(s) of correction the ECU is making to achieve stoichiometric during closed loop operation. Two completely different animals.
 
Have a feeling he's just looking at fuel trims. Still important for us to know what the "wideband" reads though so we know he's not trying to have a cookout inside the cylinders.

If you are, I'll take my steaks medium done. Thanks!
 
Have a feeling he's just looking at fuel trims. Still important for us to know what the "wideband" reads though so we know he's not trying to have a cookout inside the cylinders.

If you are, I'll take my steaks medium done. Thanks!
Lol, loser. Everyone knows you can't make power until medium-well!
 
Check the box that says lock in open loop in ECMLink and you'll see it doesn't touch trims at idle. As soon as you go WOT trims go out the window and just have to mess with MAF or VE to hit your target.

I lock in open loop to set base idle at my desired AFR before turning closed loop back on to do my driving to set cruise VEs up. Once all that is done I keep closed loop off and use my VE table for everything
 
You're talking about fuel trims? The ECU only makes fuel corrections when in closed loop operation.

Wide open throttle is open loop operation and the ECU is paying absolutely no attention to the O2 sensor when in open loop.


I'm a bit confused on what you're trying to say because widebands don't normally read 0. Can you post a log please?
Thanks for the help. I’ll post a log tomorrow or sometime soon so you could maybe see what’s going on..
 
Last edited by a moderator:
For some reason my 6 bolt is bucking when I’m getting into boost and during pulls but not getting knock code..
6 bolt 1220CC injectors Garrett T28 turbo
Problem seems to be somewhat inconsistent.. is it a tune spark plugs ? Fuel ? Help
 
If this issue has not been corrected, try out a different PTU. I have a 90 and tried a second PTU and rewired everything FAIL. Changed my battery, and upgraded my alternator FAIL. Wired in the prius coils and it fixed my issue!
 
For some reason my 6 bolt is bucking when I’m getting into boost and during pulls but not getting knock code..
6 bolt 1220CC injectors Garrett T28 turbo
Problem seems to be somewhat inconsistent.. is it a tune spark plugs ? Fuel ?

With what you got going on I'd inspect each plug wire especially for any tears or rips. Then I'd check the plugs see if they look healthy. I've never really had to change gap or even check it even though that can't hurt. My plugs are always in great shape (good color no debris carbon build up burning etc.) If it's your power transistor unit or coils I'd suspect it to constantly misfire or not start at all.
 
Boost leak test
New plugs/wires
Compression test

Mine did kind of the same thing but more on the top end. I had crummy compression and it went away after a bottom-end rebuild.
 
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