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Where are the FWDs at????

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I'm going to be shooting for the 11's once my build is done.
 
All the details are in my profile. FP3575 and FP4R cams. Cams are not set in stone just yet. Got almost everything together just need to take the motor to the machine shop to get everything straightened out on that end. Here is a direct link to my build there is some pages you can look at to see where I started and where I am at, at this point in time. I Will Call Her "turdbo" - Dallas DSM - Page 5

Sorry for making you start out on page 5 that is what I just copied and pasted for the link just go to page one to read up on everything that has been done so far and what I have bought. Should be a fun little car once everything is said and done.
 
Well, might as well add my fwd to the pile. haven't run her i'm hoping for 12's at minimum

engine:

Bottom end
fresh rebuilt.
1g rods, 2g pistons
kiggly 6bolt griddle.
b/s deletion
Arp head studs
new gaskets.
Fluidampr dampaner with arp bolts
mitsumoto oil cooler 10an lines

Top end

Stock lifters,rockers,springs
BC 280 in/ex
aem adjustable cam gears.
Kiggly oph
smim

maintance

Gates timing belt,
oem pullies and tensior
knock sensor
water pump.
oil pump.

Fuel

1600cc fic injectors
8an fuel line with an fittings
255hp in tank, 255 in-line
Fuel lab fuel filter, fuel lab afpr


turbo system

hy35 turbo rebuilt gonna run 28-32psi
12an oil drain
4an oil feed
vfrs with hks ssqv2 with fmic c02 spray bar
spf turbo manifold
tial 40mm wastegate with screamer pipe
Meth injection
exhaust out front bumper

tunning/monitoring

ecm v3 with boost by gear
autometer boost gauge-30/+35
autometer electircal oil pressure gauge 0-150psi
lc-1 wide band
speed density set up


Drivetrain
Brand new 1g transmission rebuilt by magnus
dss stage 3 axles
act 2900 6 puck sprung
fizanda light fly wheel
arp fly wheel bolts
solid shifter bushings
short throw shifter

Suspenion

Kyb g2 struts with springs
polyurothane control arm bushings,sway bar bushings, trailling arm bushings
new ball joints,tie rods


I'm sure i'm missing some..

Does anyone think i can make it to the 12's gonna run on 94 octane pump
 
You need better valve springs than stock for those cams and I would consider a different turbo. Or at least one with a bigger turbine side than the 9cm2 open T3 on that HY35..

Just my 2psi. Should be a fun ride either way.

What you have in mind for tires? Any thoughts on an LSD, motormounts or bushings? AWD Halfshafts?
 
You need better valve springs than stock for those cams and I would consider a different turbo. Or at least one with a bigger turbine side than the 9cm2 open T3 on that HY35..

Just my 2psi. Should be a fun ride either way.

What you have in mind for tires? Any thoughts on an LSD, motormounts or bushings? AWD Halfshafts?


I have a qualife lsd, urothane motor mounts all around. and i stated i have dss stage 3 drive axles.

The hy35 has seen tens, and stock springs will be fine for this summer on these cams, a buddy was running tens on his awd with these cams and stock springs.
 
Yeah I agree with what has said. Why bother with FWD trouble when you have the AWD option? I mean shit once you have a lot of power even the AWDs are having traction trouble. I just got sick of trying to find a decent AWD that wasn't beat up, over priced, or whatever and ended up getting a great deal on a very clean FWD so decided to take the challenge. Even after getting the GST Ive still once in awhile looked for an AWD but again, not found any ones in decent shape, over priced, beat up, etc.. So I guess you can say I to am going to ATTEMPT to build a fast FWD :rolleyes:

I really dont see what the big deal is. AWD is nice and all, but your right; they are a pain in the ass to find in nice condition, and they are rare to find. FWD is just fine with me, you can still blow the doors off of a GT mustang if you build your car right. Thats all the instant gratification i need ROFL
 
I have a qualife lsd, urothane motor mounts all around. and i stated i have dss stage 3 drive axles.

The hy35 has seen tens, and stock springs will be fine for this summer on these cams, a buddy was running tens on his awd with these cams and stock springs.

Use some rubber with some sidewall to give the trans a chance then.

As far as springs... could and should are two different things. Don't wind it out to high in the mean time LOL

All I was saying with reference to the HY35 is that is a pretty tight hot side. You'll make more power/psi with something that can breathe better up top.

As far as the HY35 in the tens.. so is a 14B (Bucci).

There is also Curt Browns 499awhp 16G. Those results are not typical.

Sometimes a certain setup is perfectly complimentary and those are hard to come by.

You want 12s on pump gas? Do yourself a favor and run an efficient turbine side.

You were asking for thoughts on your setup. No need to get defensive. I was by no means knocking on your car, that combo will be fun no doubt. :thumb:
 
Use some rubber with some sidewall to give the trans a chance then.

As far as springs... could and should are two different things. Don't wind it out to high in the mean time LOL

All I was saying with reference to the HY35 is that is a pretty tight hot side. You'll make more power/psi with something that can breathe better up top.

As far as the HY35 in the tens.. so is a 14B (Bucci).

There is also Curt Browns 499awhp 16G. Those results are not typical.

Sometimes a certain setup is perfectly complimentary and those are hard to come by.

You want 12s on pump gas? Do yourself a favor and run an efficient turbine side.

You were asking for thoughts on your setup. No need to get defensive. I was by no means knocking on your car, that combo will be fun no doubt. :thumb:

Oh, i'm not defensive, And if it isn't enough i'm sure my hx-40 will be more then enough. I wanna push my hy35 tho.

it's only gotta run 4-5 track days and one show this summer then the head is getting springs and retainners. Just wife didn't allow for that stuff at this time gonna sneak them in under the radar. I'm gonna be going with bc springs and retainers
 
tires i dunno about yet.. any recommondations for tires. i'm trying to find some rota slips
 
126? This a typo
I ran 12.8 at 126, with a T28 guys its time to show the awds we can hang, I have more plans for my car this is just the beggining I started taking apart my block to do more work, I'm about showing the potential of a fwd!!
 
I see that I have posted in this thread awhile back. I dropped my fwd days when the car went 12.1@114 on pump gas and 11.8@120 on 100 pump mix with a 50 shot. This was back in like 03-04. I switched to awd for many years after. But the awd is under the knife and im loving playing with my fwd since last year.

Its got the built engine out of my awd (engine in profile). Im running a pte 6262 this go around. Quickest to date is an 11.004@128. Having major issues with my tre trans 4th gear. The 7.0@110 in the 1/8 shows that. Im trying to get the car back out on the 20th with a whole different trans and clutch combo. The car has seen the best of 1.68 60' but I know there is a bunch left on the table. I Ran those 60' times on a 15x7 wheel and a 26x8.5x15 m/t tire. I just switched over to a 15x9 weld wheel and gonna realign the car. Almost to the point of having to run boost per gear. Im gonna wait til I run just a tad lower tire pressure and these wider wheels.

All I have to say is im having a blast with this fwd, and its a handful to drive with a welded diff. Never can wait to get to the track.
 
I just ran a 12.69@112 second pass of the night. Only changes I made was the bc272's and I was only at 18psi boost flowing 36lb/min. Auraii just ran 12.64@111 in first round of comp and won cause we both broke out LOL. Almost 2 tenths faster with just cam swap :) ho just ran [email protected] with a 1.788 60' :)
 
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I'm a greenhorn when it comes to drag racing, but I went out last year in my n/t Laser and had some fun. I knocked a second off my time with each pass and got down to 17.7 or something pathetic LOL Got to start somewhere though.

My local track is a 10 minute drive and every Wednesday they have the 'run what you brung' sort of event, so I'd like to start getting into drag racing a bit more. I'm just starting out with the 14b I rebuilt and some low-key bolt-ons for my fwd Laser. I just had some questions:

1. It sounds dumb but when do you know to start revving it for the launch? Because you pull up to the line and stage using the amber bulbs. Then you sit and wait for the amber lights to all fall and get to the green. But what is the indicator for when the lights will fall so you know when to start revving it?
Sometimes we stage and then sit for 25 seconds and then sometimes we stage and the lights fall right away. I asked two of the guys that work the track and they looked at me funny and said "just go when it turns green".

2. Also, I wanted to know about the water pit. Do you just pull into the puddle and do a burnout for a second and that's all there is to it? Do you even need to do this with summer street tires?
 
I'm a greenhorn when it comes to drag racing, but I went out last year in my n/t Laser and had some fun. I knocked a second off my time with each pass and got down to 17.7 or something pathetic LOL Got to start somewhere though.

My local track is a 10 minute drive and every Wednesday they have the 'run what you brung' sort of event, so I'd like to start getting into drag racing a bit more. I'm just starting out with the 14b I rebuilt and some low-key bolt-ons for my fwd Laser. I just had some questions:

1. It sounds dumb but when do you know to start revving it for the launch? Because you pull up to the line and stage using the amber bulbs. Then you sit and wait for the amber lights to all fall and get to the green. But what is the indicator for when the lights will fall so you know when to start revving it?
Sometimes we stage and then sit for 25 seconds and then sometimes we stage and the lights fall right away. I asked two of the guys that work the track and they looked at me funny and said "just go when it turns green".

2. Also, I wanted to know about the water pit. Do you just pull into the puddle and do a burnout for a second and that's all there is to it? Do you even need to do this with summer street tires?


From my experience it all depends on when both drivers stage is when the tree will drop. I was told by an old timer when u see that last light before green go. Its because the brain and body take too long to react when u actually see green, I go on the third yellow.

2. Dont use water with street tires.
 
I'm a greenhorn when it comes to drag racing, but I went out last year in my n/t Laser and had some fun. I knocked a second off my time with each pass and got down to 17.7 or something pathetic LOL Got to start somewhere though.

My local track is a 10 minute drive and every Wednesday they have the 'run what you brung' sort of event, so I'd like to start getting into drag racing a bit more. I'm just starting out with the 14b I rebuilt and some low-key bolt-ons for my fwd Laser. I just had some questions:

1. It sounds dumb but when do you know to start revving it for the launch? Because you pull up to the line and stage using the amber bulbs. Then you sit and wait for the amber lights to all fall and get to the green. But what is the indicator for when the lights will fall so you know when to start revving it?
Sometimes we stage and then sit for 25 seconds and then sometimes we stage and the lights fall right away. I asked two of the guys that work the track and they looked at me funny and said "just go when it turns green".

2. Also, I wanted to know about the water pit. Do you just pull into the puddle and do a burnout for a second and that's all there is to it? Do you even need to do this with summer street tires?

Usually as soon as both driver's are fully staged the lights will start to fall. Proper drag racing etiquette though is not to "stage" (both amber lights at the top) until both drivers are "pre-staged" (the first amber light).

As for the water box, drive around it if they will let you. If they make you drive through it just do a quick little spin just to clear the water off. Burnouts with street tires are a waste at best and can actually hurt your time at worst.

So the way it should work out is: you pull up in your lane and wait until they wave you forward. You dive around the water box and prestage while your opponent is doing his 2 minute burnout in his mustang. Once he pre-stages, you will both stage at the same time. As soon as you stage start revving up to your desired RPM. The lights will fall and you should slip the clutch out and go on the last yellow light. If you are spinning, give it less throttle.

I ran a 16.1 on my N/T with a catback, intake, and fresh OEM plugs and wires. Good luck!
 
I will be tossing a run , down in august some time if all goes well ,Just waiting for my injectors and dsm link ..Then tune it :thumb:
 
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