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Wheel Studs [Merged 4-9] stud broken replace replacing

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TalonRacer18

20+ Year Contributor
1,053
1
Aug 21, 2002
Okay the other day when i was taking my front rim off to change my rotors and brakes, one of the studs that the lug screws on broke. Will i have to replace the whole hub or is there a way to get to the stud?
 
I need to get this wheel stud separated from the lug nut. I have the wheel stud stuck onto the Lug Nut. With all the rust and crap on it it has apparantly cross-threaded. I cannot get the stud and the nut to spin independently of each other. It's a long story don't ask.

I think I need to cut it. One suggestion was a hacksaw, but my talon has the 1G GSX wheels. It's VERY difficult, I think, to get in their with a hacksaw and cut it out.

Here are my ideas:

1. Dremel with a cutting wheel. It's small enough to fit, but I don't know if their cutting wheels would cut through the wheel stud.

2. Buy a compressor and use an electric grinder to cut it off. My dad works with Lockheed Martin so he has the cutting wheel and grinder. I just have to get a hold of a compressor.

Please help guys. I don't think many people have been in this situation before. I am truly a newb, but have learned alot through slight mistakes.

I want to freaking start my project. The reason that I need to get new studs on there is to tow to my new house. I now have a garage so I can start as soon as I get it here.
 
See if you can borrow a sawzall or go rent one from Home Depot or a tool rental company. You could also rent an air compressor.

Edit: The sawzall will only work if you can get the wheel loose to get behind it.
 
:talon::talon::talon::talon:So I went out and bought a Dremel with my tax return (which was $300 over what I thought I would get back. YES!)

In the video above, this guy is using some of Dremel's old technology. I used the Cordless version of the Dremel 300 Series. Dremel calls it the 10.8V Cordless Tool, but it's essentially the same.

The fit was VERY hard. This is what I did:

Using the Dremel 300, I used their EZ lock cutting wheel. I first used the thick cut blade. Then after grinding it down I switched to the Thin Cut and it eventually heated up enough to where I actually bent it off. I had to do this on both the front wheels.

Guys, if you don't have a Dremel, get one!

Thanks for all the input

TUROK :talon:

for towing purposes, is it okay to put the wheels back on with new wheels studs without the rotors? I wouldn't think so.
 
One of my wheel stud bolts is stripped and I can't get the nut off to remove the wheel. The entire bolt turns with the nut. Any ideas on how to get the nut off?
 
Bust out the wheel stud and install a new one..I'm not sure how this is done, but I'm told it's pretty easy..I paid $175 at a shop to pop 3 of mine out and install new ones..:thumbdown:.
 
If there is anyway you can pry on the wheel next to the stud to try and get it to catch a thread it might help. This could be a bad situation. Is the wheel loose at all? Can you get behind it to cut the stud?
 
Take the brakes off(unbolt caliper take rotor off). Hit them with a hammer. I am not sure if the wheel bearing has to come off on your car because of space issues behind the stud. Try hitting one out once and see if it will come out. Make sure to turn the wheel bearing so that the stud you are hitting has the most room possible behind it. Use the same spot for the rest of the studs.

I use my air hammer to pound the new ones in. Just use a punch and a hammer to hit the new ones in from the back. If there is not enough room in the back to do this, put some spacers around the stud and then thread an extra( not gonna be used) lug nut on the stud to pull it through until it is flush with the back of the hub.
 
Take the brakes off(unbolt caliper take rotor off). Hit them with a hammer. I am not sure if the wheel bearing has to come off on your car because of space issues behind the stud. Try hitting one out once and see if it will come out. Make sure to turn the wheel bearing so that the stud you are hitting has the most room possible behind it. Use the same spot for the rest of the studs.

I use my air hammer to pound the new ones in. Just use a punch and a hammer to hit the new ones in from the back. If there is not enough room in the back to do this, put some spacers around the stud and then thread an extra( not gonna be used) lug nut on the stud to pull it through until it is flush with the back of the hub.



Thanks, man! If I took more time to look, I could have seen myself that it's actually quite easy. With the rotor off, a mini sledge will knock them right out.

On the rears I had to remove the bottom spring on the parking brake shoes (under the rotor), and the adjuster piece in order to get the old stud out/ new one in.

I used a 1/2" impact and stud installer tool to pull the new ones into place.


Thanks again.
 
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