[RESOLVED] Ignition Switch Replacement [Merged 9-9] lock removing replace replacing

[GoSpeedRacerGo]

OK guys, I made the mistake of selling the ignition switch out of my talon that I'm parting out before it was out of the car. So now I can't figure out how to get the fuggin thing out...Can anyone give me any tips? I don't know where to start.

Also, does anyone know how to get the driverside airbag out? I went to take it out, and there is one wire that won't come out. I dont remember which one, think there was one white one and one black one, and one of them unclipped easily, and the other one is stuck behind the steering wheel or something. Help!

Thanks,

 

[RedTalon95]

I can't think of a technical reason for why that would be happening, but I can give you a few suggestions which you probably already tried, but just in case: Did you try pushing the key in farther? Mine sometimes gets stuck if it isn't fully pressed into the ignition and I have to jiggle it a few times. Also, did you try holding the steering wheel all the way to the left and right? If the wheel is locked with the car off, you have to turn in all the way to either direction to get the key to turn.

 

[Hoot]

I did try both those things. Could it be a clutch issue? The clutch needs to be fully depressed in order to turn the key. So is it possible that the cold temps are not enabling the clutch to be fully depressed? Is this even possible?

 

[CrazyM]

My only experience with this 'type of situation' was in my buddies Cavalier, it would not let him turn the key pass ACC either. He took it to the dealership and told him the Rockers, or rollers(can't remember exactly what they were called,one of the 2 though) needed replacing...They are inside where the key goes so...

Hope it helps...

 

[Laysher91]

I had the worst trouble with this for a few months. My keys and locks were so wore out that only my door lock would work. Usually a good wheel jerk/jiggle would get it but after time it wouldnt move at all - not even to acc. You will have to modify your lock. I took the ignition cylinder lock out and took the lock apart and took a dremel to the tumblers (the things that move up and down when you put your key in). You have to remove enough of the tumblers so that they are fully retracted when your worn out key is fully inserted so the cylinder will turn ( from off to acc to on to ignition). It takes some time to get it right and there are VERY small springs that hold tension on the tumblers. It sucks trying to find those little buggers on your filthy floor . You can do it all in a couple hours but the kicker is you have to the key to the ON position (I believe) to remove the cylinder lock Try like hell to get it there so you can take it out and fix it.

 

[Hoot]

Awesome. This is enough info for me to go off of. I'll look into what I need for redoing the tumblers.

 

[Laysher91]

This might help. The worn out key prevents the tumbler from fully retracting up or down thus preventing the inner cylinder from rotating. It might be all of them or it might just be one. It will be obvious once you get it apart. Make sure that you check that all your spare keys turn the ignition as well before you reassemble. It would suck to have to redo if only one of your keys worked!

 

[Defiant]

It sounds like you know about how the column lock can jam in the steering column if the wheel's turned after locking the ignition, and that turning the wheel to take the load off it will release it.
I wonder if you could have frozen a lock in that weather. You might try a small shot of WD-40.
And yes, the lock does need to be turned to "ACC" in order to pull the cylinder easily.
You should be able to feel when the steering column's "loose" and not jammed by the lock pin. When you have it in that state, try gently twisting the key while jiggling it against the tumbler pins. If it's a case of a worn key/worn pins (they're not really pins in a car ignition, but they're routinely called that), you'll actually be picking the lock at this point, and will find the sweet spot where it'll turn. Don't get frustrated and crank on the key- they are easy to twist off inside the lock when you're pissed.

 

[Locke]

If it's a case of a worn key/worn pins (they're not really pins in a car ignition, but they're routinely called that)

Wafers, or discs.

 

[Hoot]

Alright! I got it to work! You have no idea how happy this makes me!

Defiant was right - there is a sweet spot. Theres no need to describe "the spot," just the fact there is one is nice.

Wheel wasn't locked and ignition switch wasn't frozen (due to weather). It is the warn tumblers/pins/wafers/discs or whatever we want to call them. Now that I can get the key into the ACC position I can pull the switch and smooth the tumblers. On that note thanks Laysher for the help and the visuals.

Thanks everyone for the help... I'll be back w/ more questions, I'm sure, really soon.

 

[CrazyM]

I guess if i had my definitions right it would be much easier to understand. I guess the correct word was 'tumblers'

Hey ya learn something new every day

 

[Pont]

Ok, total noob here so be patient!

I have a 97 Eclipse GS-T Spyder. I bought it about 2 1/2 years ago. It's been a great car and has never given me any troubles, AT ALL!. It's dependable and runs perfect. 129k mi.

About 6 months ago, I bought another daily driver and parked the Eclipse. It has been sitting all this time, although I would go out and start it about once a month, just for good measures.

Today, I decided to pull it out of storage to clean it up and sell it. I started it up and drove it about 100 ft. (in front of the garage) and proceeded to prep it so I could sell it. After some cleaning, I hopped back in the car to start it but it did something it has never done before.

I turned the key to the on position, then ACC, but it immediately sprung back, like it would after trying to start it. Hmmm I thought, how weird! It springs back at the ACC position instead of springing back after advancing to the "RUN" position.

Now, I can start the car, but I have to hold the key in the RUN postion (or somewhere between RUN and ACC) to keep it running. If I let go of the key, it comes back far enough to kill the engine.

SO MY QUESTION IS: has this happened to anybody else? Can it be adjusted? Do I need to replace the ignition switch? and if so, what kind of chore is that going to be.


Many thanks for reading my post and your prompt replies.


Pont

 

[spooln4fun]

If you have to replace the ignition switch, its not that big of a chore. You'll need to remove the plastic trim around the steering wheel(there are 3 screws on the bottom, 2 in front and one in the rear on the dr. side) once thats off. I unbolted my windshield washer lever(2 screws and a wiring plug). Now you may be able to get by just getting the part that actually turns.

On your ignition there is the part that your key slides in to, then at the end of that is the piece that turns with the spring in it. That part can be got at advance, or autozone. I got mine from autozone and it was a mitsubishi part (factory made). I would try replacing that piece first. I will try to find a picture to better help my explaining of this.

 

[Pont]

A picture would be great! Thanks for any help that you can provide. I am well versed at working on and building older muscle cars but have no idea what I'm getting into with this ignition problem on an import.

Thanks again for any help or visual aids you can provide to make this job an easy one.

 

[Robb]

So my key is lost and a mitsu dealer will not vin cut a new one... I need to replace the tumbler without the key, and I'm not sure what route to take. I have an entire spare column to work with... any suggestions?

 

[Unreal89]

I had my drivers side key cylinder stolen a while back, so I replaced all the locks in my car fearing that the thief would make a copy of my key. I called my local Mitsubishi recycler, and this is what they told me to do, it works great:

If you are trying to remove the ignition tumbler that has the bolts with broken off heads on top they are actually really easy to take out. Just take a sharp object, I used a nail, and position it on top of the bolt towards the outside edge of it, and point the nail in a counter-clockwise direction. Then strike it with a hammer, not super hard, they come loose really easy. It takes some time cause 90% of the time the nail will just slip, but when it catches it will start loosening it. You only need to loosen it like a quarter of a turn, after that just use your finger like a screwdriver.

To install it back you can use normal bolts, or i just reused the stud thingies and tightened them the same way I loosened them.

Good Luck

 

[Robb]

That removed the tumbler for you, not just the housing?

 

[Unreal89]

I'm not sure what you're referring to... I'm talking about the big metal assembly that has the key cylinder and steering wheel lock in it, around the steering column. Are you trying to remove just the cylinder in which the key is put into?

 

[Defiant]

The ignition has to be turned to ACC, then you press up on the small button inside the housing underneath the casting with a Phillips screwdriver and it pulls straight out.

To get the ignition to turn to ACC, get a blank key and shave it down, and jiggle it in the lock while turning. Destroy the key afterward, as it may be a misdemeanor to have one where you live. If you can't get it, locksmith time.

The dealer probably no longer has the database for the Eclipse VIN/key lookup.

 

[cincinnati4g]

You can get a key cut from the mitsu dealership with the vin and proof of ownership of the car. I had to do this when i lost my only set. $17.95 And its an Evo key

Whoever owned my talon before me hardwired a turbo timer into the ignition instead of not being cheap and buying a $20 harness. So my question is, how hard is it to replace the ignition harness? Would i have to replace the switch also and use a different key?

 

[MelloOne420]

So I lost my keys for my car. Ordered a new lock and cylinder. Got the old one out. Put the new one in. My key does nothing!!!

We got it started with a screw driver, but then it wouldnt shut off. We think we messed something up.... Behind the lock and cylinder housing, there's another piece. We pulled it out to examine, but still can't get it to all go back into it proper place and tie the ignition...

Any help is appreciated. I can post pics too...

It's a small piece of metal behind the lock and cylinder housing, what is it??? What did I do wrong???

 

[melg40]

I am the same person as above.... i forgot my password, wasn't on my home computer..
anyways, my adventure in trying to fix my car continues.

here is the mess we made in the first pic.
second pic is with the cylinder removed.
third pic is the ignition switch we messed up.

I ordered the new part today. after we figured out that we messed up the ignition switch. $40 mess up....

Hopefully we can get it fixed tomorrow. I'll take pics of the ins and out of the ignition housing, switch, cylinder because I couldn't find a lot of info when I was searching.

 

[chrysler kid]

Did you try to dill the old key cylinder out of the column? Because that's what the first picture looks like