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Cleaned my grounds and looked for potential electrical issues, came to the realization that I will have to rewire the whole car at some point in the near future, the cables are old, it was giving me an issue with starting the car.
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Just look for those botched connections and solder with some heat shrink. You'd probably be just fine. 🤘

So after the new PB last weekend, it was still running fine but felt off, the log showed the car hit 41 psi coolant pressure and after looking over the car, the oil turned to a milkshake. I was thinking head gasket but unfortunately not. Block is toast after 9 years of abuse, can't be mad at that. I've already started prepping to transfer everything over to a new block. She'll be ready for Ohio.

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Damn, man, that's wild! Can't complain, that block has seen some serious duty!
 
I don’t know where I went wrong but finished up the install and adjustment then took the car out on a drive and now I’m losing brake fluid somehow 🤦🏽‍♂️ Always something. Rides much better at least

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Still waiting of some parts for my own car but i helped a local with his vr4 made a new downpipe and midpipe. Hopefully by next week i'll be able to post progress on my personal car

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So after the new PB last weekend, it was still running fine but felt off, the log showed the car hit 41 psi coolant pressure and after looking over the car, the oil turned to a milkshake. I was thinking head gasket but unfortunately not. Block is toast after 9 years of abuse, can't be mad at that. I've already started prepping to transfer everything over to a new block. She'll be ready for Ohio.

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Your a hell of a dedicated man Jason! Kudos 👏
Best of luck at the SO. Take some of my donated $$$'s :thumb:
What do you think pushed the block over the limit???
 
Flywheel and clutch setup on. Put transmission on and fork was a bit biased left of center. ACT Streetlite, fidanza v2 6puck and pressure plate, comp clutch forged fork, new OEM pivot ball and TOB.

Fingers look correct, just slightly convex, unless there's something I'm not seeing.

Clutch fork isn't bent. Flywheel is .609 all the way around.

Perhaps the disk is just a tad thick and needs to wear in a bit but I'm considering a shim between .7 and 1.1mm. three aftermarket parts that are all determining fork resting position, the variances could be adding up to just aint quite right.

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Your a hell of a dedicated man Jason! Kudos 👏
Best of luck at the SO. Take some of my donated $$$'s :thumb:
What do you think pushed the block over the limit???
With all luck it should be back together this coming weekend. I'll do my best LOL

I put the blame on fatigue, that block has been in the car for 9 seasons, the last 4-5 of which has been at 40ish psi of boost.

Flywheel and clutch setup on. Put transmission on and fork was a bit biased left of center. ACT Streetlite, fidanza v2 6puck and pressure plate, comp clutch forged fork, new OEM pivot ball and TOB.

Fingers look correct, just slightly convex, unless there's something I'm not seeing.

Clutch fork isn't bent. Flywheel is .609 all the way around.

Perhaps the disk is just a tad thick and needs to wear in a bit but I'm considering a shim between .7 and 1.1mm. three aftermarket parts that are all determining fork resting position, the variances could be adding up to just aint quite right.

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I've seen that on a clients car before with the Comp fork, shim the ball, will fix it.
 
With all luck it should be back together this coming weekend. I'll do my best LOL

I put the blame on fatigue, that block has been in the car for 9 seasons, the last 4-5 of which has been at 40ish psi of boost.
Well I'm no JD, but I drive my "contraptions" pretty hard and lots of boost. I can't possibly be you, but I can follow in a good set of footprints! If I lived closer, I'd be over tomorrow to help change parts!
 
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Hated calculus in U, but trig is my jam.
What I mean is how 0.8mm behind the fulcrum magically (its magic, just admit it) amplifies the deterministic super positioning effect of the pivot point through, what is effectively, reductive transmogrification.
 
So its been some time since the last major update!

But its been moving along over theast few weekends! Its ALMOST COMPLETE!!!!!!!!!

We need new exhaust hangers as they were wrong and too small of a hole, and also we ended up with GL5 trans fluid so thats being rebought for GL4. So this should all be here this week and by NEXT weekend its possible to start it and likely have it on the ground! WOW. Will be great once this happens as then once all ok and checked for leaks etc I can then get it booked in for our MOT which is a yearly inspection to make sure its safe to be on the road. If all goes to plan by the end of sept this will now be off my hands and back with the owner full time where he can drive it for a few months before it goes back to sleep for the winter months as salt gets spread as he never drives in that.

These pics are also slightly delayed now as mostly all hardware is now torqued up, front droplinks are now the correct way as i placed them on the outside vs inside while i had it all in loosely for mock up, propshaft is now rebuilt and back in and bumpers fully on with lights and ALL new led upgraded bulbs! Want to make sure people see it stopping and indicating afterall LOL

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So its been some time since the last major update!

But its been moving along over theast few weekends! Its ALMOST COMPLETE!!!!!!!!!

We need new exhaust hangers as they were wrong and too small of a hole, and also we ended up with GL5 trans fluid so thats being rebought for GL4. So this should all be here this week and by NEXT weekend its possible to start it and likely have it on the ground! WOW. Will be great once this happens as then once all ok and checked for leaks etc I can then get it booked in for our MOT which is a yearly inspection to make sure its safe to be on the road. If all goes to plan by the end of sept this will now be off my hands and back with the owner full time where he can drive it for a few months before it goes back to sleep for the winter months as salt gets spread as he never drives in that.

These pics are also slightly delayed now as mostly all hardware is now torqued up, front droplinks are now the correct way as i placed them on the outside vs inside while i had it all in loosely for mock up, propshaft is now rebuilt and back in and bumpers fully on with lights and ALL new led upgraded bulbs! Want to make sure people see it stopping and indicating afterall LOL

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The engine bay looks really good. Nicely done all around!
 
The engine bay looks really good. Nicely done all around!
Cheers. It was decent as it was but cleaning up the air box and other corroding parts greatly made this bay look a load better. We cleaned up some small surface rust on the tops of the rails which could be seen in person but not any more so its now alot noce to view overall. But without the engine out i did what I could for him
 
Hated calculus in U, but trig is my jam.
What I mean is how 0.8mm behind the fulcrum magically (its magic, just admit it) amplifies the deterministic super positioning effect of the pivot point through, what is effectively, reductive transmogrification.
🤔
 
Ended up going through my inventory of misc things and found a few sets of straight cut gears. Also finally finished the downpipe and dump on my friends car. Trying to get a few of us to make it to ohio again this year.

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Dam, I guess I need to tear open ALL of my used oil pumps. :thumb:
I must have 5 or 6 1g's :hmm:
 
Those straight cut gears are gold these days, seen them selling for $100+ per set.

Mine are still like new after 9 years in the car, hell after 2 money shifts, 200+ drag passes and probably 40k miles, other than some light marks on the case that you can't even catch a finger nail on, I'm very happy with this pump. This was fed a diet of 20w50 VR1 since day 1.

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