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Vrpracing's 16g powered 1g auto 11.3 @ 118!

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OMG:banghead:

That huge explanation has nothing to do with the fact the car started the 1/4 mile timer with his rear tires and ended the 1/4 mile with his front tires. It's all posted above go through it thoroughly.

And there is no way in this earth his car with a 16g makes anywhere close to the power I was making in first gear. I was launching at 25lbs of boost on a GT40r at about 5800rpms. It took that and a full bias ply tire to cut 1.3s. I've played with 16gs and drag radials and it was a lot of work getting consistent mid 1.5s.

I'm telling you this car DID NOT legitimately cut a 1.3 60' time.

Did not want to be so long winded but I just want to make it clear to some folks what is going on with big turbo.

Are you running an automatic also? Maybe that man is putting down the power at his hp level and you are just spun a bit with a 25psi launch.
 
Lol not even close. My car was hooking. Your not understanding that his car is incapable of hitting 1.3s on street tires. I guess you have to be in the game for awhile and have much track experience which it seems the majority of the commenters in this thread lack.
 
FP HTA Green Ball Bearing Turbo Testing 510whp E85 422whp pump gas 1-4 rip on Dyno - YouTube

Watch this video. This is why them boys from English Racing are so bad ass. They know something a lot of guys have yet to know. Watch the dyno graphs for all four gears. They got it in hp vs time but you can also do it in hp vs speed. If you have a responsive turbo, you will get four graphs that are similar in amplitude. If you have a laggy bastard, you will see a significantly lower power in first and second. Set your 2 step high if you wish to come out hard and gear second so when your turbo will drop to its critical boost zone after first gear.

Automatic tends to have a trampoline affect from what I have seen at the track. All that preloading of the tranny and suspension make the car jump off the line hard. With a manual, you usually need to snatch 2nd just before the end of the 60ft mark. Same goes with an automatic. You just get to power shift the hell out of an automatic and don't lose a bit of momentum. It is like the car just move out with zero nose diving at the 1st to 2nd shift. Could explain this man nice as 60ft time.

I don't see any reason to doubt this man 60ft time. I like to see his car on a dyno in first and second gears compared to some bigger turbo/hp cars in the same gears. This will resolve a lot speculation.
 
Wasn't lucas's car only in the 1.4's on slicks when it ran 9's on a 68hta. That's arguably the best setup 16g car there ever was, and you are claiming to be better with less power, less traction, and on your first time out, and then never backed it up? Come on. Show us a broken stock tcase on one of these magical launches and we'll talk.
 
There is something about how a small turbo produce power in 1st and 2nd that give people quick time without high mph. If the Dynojet place near you will allow you to do a simulated 1/4 mile run on the Dyno, you will see that some of the mid size and large size turbos will produce significantly less amount of power in 1st and 2nd than 3rd or 4th when graph with mph vs hp. Although 1st and 2nd feel quick/fast with less power, the truth is there is not that much power seen by the Dyno. This means less work being done by the car than you think or feel. This low power seen by the Dyno is the result of low load in first and second gear which them translate to the car not seeing full boost in these two gears.

When I had a turbonetic t72, I did not even build a lb of boost in first and second saw only 10 psi. The car was slow as crap. 3rd and 4th would hit 30psi and the car would haul ass then. Even with 2steps and car would fall out of boost once I hit 2nd. A lot of people Dyno in 4th because it is closest to the 1:1 ratio that the Dynojet suggests. Some people Dyno in 3rd and it gives similar power to 4th but not quit the same. The truth is a Dyno does not know what gear you are in. It just knows how quickly thr car is spinning the roller or how much the car is able to put on the strain sensor. The reading you get when dynoing in any gears is what is seen by the Dyno. This is power to the ground in real world situation. This is why you see turbo cars running sloppier times than cars with smaller turbos. Yeah you make big power in 3rd and 4th but your power in 1st and 2nd are crap because you are not building full boost in 3rd and 4th.

Just go to a Dynojet center and see for yourself. Do a first through 4th gears run and display it in hp/tq vs mph. You will get 4 hp/tq curves and be ready to catch you dropping jaws. An ideal turbo will give you the best average of the 4 curves. Look online and see that a lot of guys already know what I am talking about.

Unless you're launching your car on the dyno, I fail to see how this relates properly to the drag strip. My 2G doesn't really make any boost in 1st just taking off normal, but if I launch I guarantee I make boost just fine.




If the 60' was really that good, I don't see why the 1/4 ET wouldn't have been better than that. I'd probably hit 10's with my 16G if I could get a 60' like that.
 
I know it didn't cut the 1.3 60' time because the cold hard facts that he didn't are right in his video. This has nothing to do with comparing large turbos to small. I was launching my big turbo with full spool and don't shift til just after the 60' marker. So completely invalid argument.

It's sad that you can't see what's goin on. I've explained what happened and it's flying over your head. He doesn't just go from high 11s all day and 1.8s 60' times to somehow getting some magic curt brown fairy dust sprinkled on the car then running one 11.3 with a 1.3 60'.

THE CAR DIDN'T START THE 1/4 MILE TIMER WITH HIS FRONT TIRES.

Watch the staging lights as his front tires pass them they don't even shut off when his car moves off the line. Watch his video and then watch the one I posted. It's right there clear as day that there was a timing error.
 
Lol not even close. My car was hooking. Your not understanding that his car is incapable of hitting 1.3s on street tires. I guess you have to be in the game for awhile and have much track experience which it seems the majority of the commenters in this thread lack.

Justins 9.9 Fallon - YouTube

I know you seen this video a billion time but see what I mean about nose dive in your first run. This is because snatch 2nd a bit slow and fell out of boost or something. Your 2nd and 3rd runs did not have any noticeable nose dive and you just rip the feaken down the track with a vengeance.
 
That's my fwd on the 14b. That is not my awd on the 40r. The reason the nose drops is because if you've ever ran slicks at 7psi you'd know they are flat. That's tire drop and the on and off throttle time with those shifts are very quick.
 
Sorry didn't watch the video. That is my awd. The 9.9 pass was a true 1.3 60'. The pass right before that rolled out a little and started the timers to soon. The 60' time was a 1.6 but everything was the same but higher mph.

The green light doesn't start the timer, passing the staging beams do. End of story. Nose drop, turbo size, Yada, Yada, has nothing to do with the timing error that shows in the original video. Everything your saying will not make the difference between a 1.8 and a 1.3. If you see the drop doesn't occur til right at the 60' if not after it. That has not affect on the 60' time since I'm in first gear the whole 60'.
 
Your small turbo vs big turbo arguments has nothing to do with discussing this false 60' claim. It doesn't matter how much horse power or torque it makes under any circumstance the limiting factor is the tires. The only way its going to cut that 60' is if there is a sling shot attached to the car.
 
Unless you're launching your car on the dyno, I fail to see how this relates properly to the drag strip. My 2G doesn't really make any boost in 1st just taking off normal, but if I launch I guarantee I make boost just fine.




If the 60' was really that good, I don't see why the 1/4 ET wouldn't have been better than that. I'd probably hit 10's with my 16G if I could get a 60' like that.


We putted 8 straps on one of my friend car and did a 2 step at 5500rpm on the dyno to see what the 4 power curves would look like. The car built 12psi with a PTE bolt on 50trim bb turbo on the 2steps. The car build 22psi max boost in first and 2nd and then 30psi in 3rd and 4th. You can clearly see a different of about 50hp less in 1st and 2nd compare to 3rd and 4th because of the boost different.

I am running a 35r. I did the four runs on the dyno but I did not launch it. I rolled the car up to 5000rpm where critical boost is and punch it. wow! I was so disappointed after see the result. My car made less than my friend 50trim in first and 2nd. 3rd and 4th, I made 100hp more than him though. That is why your boy is a proud owner of a GTX3076r with a used FP bolt on housing. Quick boost here I come. I am not going to let my boy out do me in first and second. LOL.

Some turbos like the 35r or 6262 can bog out really bad after getting off the line on a 2step if you launch below 5500-6000rpm. Sometimes the car will catch traction after the launch and the engine will fall below launching rpm. The turbo then struggle to recover boost. These turbos I mentioned above will fall out of critical boost if you don't snatch 2nd fast enough or do a no lift to shift. Turbos like the 16g and 14b make guys look like pros because they are so forgiving. You can granny shift and the 16g or 14b will recover nearly instantly after 1st.


I am no fan of FP turbo but damn the 68HTA is a feaken beast of a turbo. It does miracle on dsm like there is no tomorrow.
 
My head hurts, apparently ignorance is bliss. There needs to be no more proof then what is in the video that was posted in the very first post. Please go back and watch it, tell me that you don't see the car moving before the lights turn green. Then please for the love of donuts tell me you at least understand how things work enough to know that should have been a redlight and that the timer should have started immediately as the car was moving. Don't post another word until you watch the video a couple times.
 
Well I wonder how quick my cars are if they ran 1312ft with a rolling head start. Might have to try it sometime.

https://vimeo.com/16353832
Timing errors never happen.... Lol. Same here as with your pass. The lights held, the car moved, then the tree dropped. Basically giving you a head start

I remember this. The difference here though is that Jesse knew the red rocket wasnt a 7.5 sec car and go claiming that.
 
I thought it was pretty obvious too. You can see the staging lights both stay on solid until the rear tires cross the start line.

Maybe the exhaust pipe was being pushed down by the torque of the engine, and the car was squatting on the launch.
 
I thought it was pretty obvious too. You can see the staging lights both stay on solid until the rear tires cross the start line.

Maybe the exhaust pipe was being pushed down by the torque of the engine, and the car was squatting on the launch.

Launched so hard it carried the front tires over the beam.
 
Launched so hard it carried the front tires over the beam.

That doesn't make sense. If the tires lifted out of the beam, the lights would go out. The staging lights only come on if something is blocking the beam. They were supposed to go off when the front tires move out of the beam, and flash once more when the rear tires pass through the beam.
 
That doesn't make sense. if the tires lifted out of the beam, the lights would go out. The staging lights only come on if something is blocking the beam. They were supposed to go off when the front tires move out of the beam, and flash once more when the rear tires pass through the beam.

Im sorry that was just a sarcastic remark. Kinda fits in with what these other guys are saying.

Yes the lights would go out as the tires lifted over the staging beams.
 
Oh my god there is so much stupidity in this thread! The car didn't go 1.31! Period!! At those short times you start to run into oiling issues. If you think the car pulled a 1.31 your retarded plain and simple. Maybe you should put a slick on the car and pull some .9 60' so you can be up there with farced power and top fuel funny cars and dragsters....
 
Besides the fact that some of the most well-respected and knowledgeable racers on the site have explained why a 1.3 60' is so highly unlikely in this case, the car starts rolling at 1:31 in the video (after being fully staged), and then rolls for a full second or more before the green light comes on just before 1:33. It can't get any more obvious than that. Anyone arguing with that is either trolling, or certifiable.

Why not just say "Too bad about the timing error, but still a damn nice pass!". I don't get it.
 
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If you look at the shot from outside the car, the reflection confirms that the light turns green about the same time the rear tires cross the line.

Ps. Damn nice pass. The paint is nice and shiny (reflective) too. :)

Ps ps. Is it possible that since the other driver red lighted it caused some sort of glitch?
 
He never red lighted. When you deep stage, the top staging light goes out. It never did. Great timing! In all he did a kick ass 60ft and good reaction time. Even if he staged on the back well, it is coming out of the hole hard to get that time. Considering that a Gsx is about 15', I am calling it a 1.3s a 45ft or 50ft time. Lol.
 
He never red lighted. When you deep stage, the top staging light goes out. It never did. Great timing! In all he did a kick ass 60ft and good reaction time. Even if he staged on the back well, it is coming out of the hole hard to get that time. Considering that a Gsx is about 15', I am calling it a 1.3s a 45ft or 50ft time. Lol.

Center hub to hub is a little over 8'
 
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