The 14b Drag Race Discussion Thread

[SBstar]

Seriously! Best wifey ever!

 

[Nate Crisman]

Well I got a welcome surprise yesterday. Got my engine parts and a little something extra.

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My wife apparently decided to get me something for my birthday early (it's in October). She said after two broken driveshafts last year, and this year the best explanation we have for my leaky t-case being the driveshaft out of balance she wanted me to just do it right. Who am I to argue. Then she stated she planned this before I decided to blow my engine and have to rebuild it, oops

Big favor: PLEASE get an accurate weight using a bathroom scale before you put the driveshaft on.

What's your plan for timeframe on getting the motor back together and the car running? Will you be able to get back to the track this fall? We seem to be in the same boat w/ late season engine failure....maybe we can "race" to have a running car. hahahaha

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Well I got a welcome surprise yesterday. Got my engine parts and a little something extra.

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Awesome Shane! She done good!

 

[Steve93Talon]

Big favor: PLEASE get an accurate weight using a bathroom scale before you put the driveshaft on.

We installed one on my friend's car and found the weight listed on their website to be dead on. Basically 10 lbs lighter than stock.

 

[SBstar]

I'll have to weigh the front two pieces of the stock driveshaft but the aluminum one with all parts (meaning including the conversion plate for the cv end and hardware) was 13.5 lbs. The conversion plate and hardware is the 1.5lbs extra from what the claimed weight of 12lbs.

Also I just finished up the bottom end, it's ready to throw the ARP's on and bolt the head down. I need to drive over to my buddies and finish the head since he has the valve spring compression tool. I'm going to replace the one bent intake valve and double check the rest of them. I also plan to pull the cams out of his head and swap his new ones in for him so I can steal the hks's.

 

[Nate Crisman]

Island Talon Sep 17 - YouTube

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/bN5vlawwXHE?hd=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[91stocker]

Damn man, thats too bad. It was on its way to a hell of a pass too. Two tenths in the 1/8 faster. 10 second pass for sure man.

 

[Pirrofab]

Congrats on the driveshaft! I thought I had it good when my fiance bought me reproduction AWD Turbo badges for my sideskirts. You sir have me beat. Maybe with my tax return in the spring I can get one of these. Does the driveshaft shop make an aluminum replacement for the final rear part of the driveshaft? I've been told that is the actual weakest part of the driveshaft. It just doesn't make sense to only do half of it. Plus if I can shave more weight then why not?

I now have a spare evo3 16g in my posession. GOt if of a car that my friend said wasn't building any boost. He said there was excessive shaft play and the wheel was hitting the compressor housing. Wheels look ok to me and there are no rub marks. All he did was swap with another 16g and problem solved. I may send this unit out and get back into the small turbo world. I also have my 14b with a 16g housing ready to rock. It will not be going on girls 2g at this point as she might be selling it. Things are up in the air. My top end on my car though I feel is to built up for a 14b to be impressive.

 

[hubz91talontsi]

What was the 1/8 on the pass you blew?

Nevermind.. Got it!

Need more NOS!

 

[SBstar]

Most driveshafts I've seen break, including mine, has been in the first two sections. But even if the rear was weaker the front part being aluminum and taking some of the abuse being more torsional should still help. Unfortunately they don't make the rear section yet.

 

[Nate Crisman]

What was the 1/8 on the pass you blew?

Nevermind.. Got it!

Need more NOS!

Needs more fuel!!! I need to clean out the entire fuel system and find the source of debris. Then re-assemble with utmost cleanliness.

More nitrous will just melt er down quicker if I dont fix the problem.

BTW... How's your 14b project progressing?

 

[hubz91talontsi]

Slowly, 10.5:1 aluminum rod motor. I'll be running e98 with water/meth as secondary fuel. Going to start with the stock block though. Car will go down the track next season. 100% sure of that.

 

[Pirrofab]

Haven't made it yet? Wow. All the years they've been making this front part and they haven't made a rear? I guess there isn't that much of a demand for it being as the front piece is expensive enough. Although if they made it and I had the cash I would just build it nice or build it twice. Stick my head between my legs and kiss my a** goodbye.

 

[SBstar]

Yep, no one makes the rear section yet, figure that one out.

Valve guide is cracked, now I've got decisions to make. It sounds like it's cheaper to find another head then to replace the valve guide. So I either find a 1g head and use it, or use a free 2g head I have access to and finally pick up one of those fancy evo III manifolds. I'd also have to have the 2g head done for the 1g head studs of course.

 

[Kevin Jewer]

I get guides replaced all the time. Most heads need 8, and it does add to the cost, but I thought it was pretty reasonable. Just one shouldn't cost much at all. I know a lot of machinists just don't want to deal with it though so they jack up the price.

 

[Phil1320]

Yep, no one makes the rear section yet, figure that one out.

ACPT Carbon fiber is a full length one piece. Not sure if its still in production, but it was out at least 8 years ago.......

 

[hubz91talontsi]

ACPT Carbon fiber is a full length one piece. Not sure if its still in production, but it was out at least 8 years ago.......

They sure do! More info here fellas
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/389552-carbon-fiber-drive-shaft-specifications.html

The product.
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/acpt-carbon-fiber-driveshaft-mitsubishi-eclipse-9399-p-9400.html

 

[SBstar]

I get guides replaced all the time. Most heads need 8, and it does add to the cost, but I thought it was pretty reasonable. Just one shouldn't cost much at all. I know a lot of machinists just don't want to deal with it though so they jack up the price.

I must be running into said machinists who don't want to deal. I'll call a few more today. I kind of like the idea of going to the 2g head for the better ports and the "claims" of keeping a great midrange with the evo III intake mani, but it's going to end up being whatever is cheapest honestly. The 2g head is free and I should be able to break even selling my extrude honed 1g mani and getting an evo III intake. But if it isn't rediculous to get the one valve guide replaced it's much easier to stick with what I have currently.

ACPT Carbon fiber is a full length one piece. Not sure if its still in production, but it was out at least 8 years ago.......

True, I guess I meant the aluminum ones. Also the driveshaft shop doesn't seem to like the idea of the 1 piece ones, even in carbon fiber.

Also weighed the stock front 2 pieces of the driveshaft with hardware, 23.5lbs on the ol bathroom scale method. So a true 10 lbs. lost in the driveshaft!

 

[Phil1320]

True, I guess I meant the aluminum ones. Also the driveshaft shop doesn't seem to like the idea of the 1 piece ones, even in carbon fiber.

Ahhh...ok. C/F is pretty much a race only thing I'd guess. The thing is they are tough to balance apparently so not so great for cruising in your street ride. However, I remember how stupid light it was over the entire stock stuff with carrier bearings.

They sure do! More info here fellas
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/389552-carbon-fiber-drive-shaft-specifications.html

The product.
ACPT Carbon Fiber Driveshaft Mitsubishi Eclipse 93-99

There you go.....cool....wow price went up........Oh well

 

[SBstar]

Wow, so one place wanted a hundred bucks, then I called a local place I used to mount my pistons on my rods last time. Fifteen bucks, pretty easy decision I guess.

 

[Steve93Talon]

True, I guess I meant the aluminum ones. Also the driveshaft shop doesn't seem to like the idea of the 1 piece ones, even in carbon fiber.

I"ve read alot here and there about the CF one piece units having horrible vibrations. I believe Shep ran one at one point and got rid of it.

 

[Phil1320]

I"ve read alot here and there about the CF one piece units having horrible vibrations. I believe Shep ran one at one point and got rid of it.

Yeah, as I stated, balancing problems. Extreme ran one and that's how I saw it first hand. Never bothered them as far as I know. I think the DSS aluminum is great, don't think I'd bother with the carbon for $1890....that money is better spent elsewhere IMHO. You can get the DSS piece and have more than half of that $ leftover for whatever.....an NX kit for instance....hehe....

 

[GRNDSM]

This isn't about balance, but rather harmonic vibration due to the length and alignment of the 3 segments. You can have a perfectly balanced object which would vibrate itself apart if it experiences harmonics. CF shaft is able to slightly flex and absorb those vibrations. Is it worth it? I guess it all depends on your budget . But I do think that it makes more sense on FWD to AWD converted cars, because then, you do not have to worry about welding in carrier bearing points.

As for DSS driveshaft, this is my experience with it through driving Bruce K.'s car. He upgraded to it a few winters ago, it was "treat myself to something nice" type of mod. It did look pretty and was slightly lighter than the two sections that it replaced.

First problem happened when transfer case broke and we couldn't take the broken shaft stubby out, because DSS yoke had too much twist in it! Wasted day at the track (normally, we would have replaced the t-case and went on).

He bought a replacement DSS yoke (which wasn't cheap) and went back to the track. On first pass, the u-joint fell apart. Another wasted trip to the track... I am not going to blame them for it, because it could have been install error. But the fact it, unless you have a spare DSS drive shaft sitting in your trailer, your day will be over when anything goes wrong with this shaft. Where as, having a stock DS allows you easy access to OEM parts. BTW, Bruce has been on a stock shaft ever since....

My point is, it is not a very smart mod... save your $700 for something else.

 

[Phil1320]

This isn’t about balance, but rather harmonic vibration due to the length and alignment of the 3 segments. You can have a perfectly balanced object which would vibrate itself apart if it experiences harmonics. CF shaft is able to slightly flex and absorb those vibrations. Is it worth it? I guess it all depends on your budget . But I do think that it makes more sense on FWD to AWD converted cars, because then, you do not have to worry about welding in carrier bearing points.

As for DSS driveshaft, this is my experience with it through driving Bruce K.’s car. He upgraded to it a few winters ago, it was “treat myself to something nice” type of mod. It did look pretty and was slightly lighter than the two sections that it replaced.

First problem happened when transfer case broke and we couldn’t take the broken shaft stubby out, because DSS yoke had too much twist in it! Wasted day at the track (normally, we would have replaced the t-case and went on).

He bought a replacement DSS yoke (which wasn’t cheap) and went back to the track. On first pass, the u-joint fell apart. Another wasted trip to the track... I am not going to blame them for it, because it could have been install error. But the fact it, unless you have a spare DSS drive shaft sitting in your trailer, your day will be over when anything goes wrong with this shaft. Where as, having a stock DS allows you easy access to OEM parts. BTW, Bruce has been on a stock shaft ever since....

My point is, it is not a very smart mod… save your $700 for something else.

^Same guy that says a FMIC doesn't help on a 14b set-up
WTF
The DSS driveshaft is a sweet piece, considering it's rotating, it's MUCH lighter than the two pieces it replaces. The gain in response is awesome. I've had mine for 7 years now with zero issues whatsoever.....

 

[GRNDSM]

OK... You want to talk about rotation? Then, look up moment of inertia and tell me what does a larger shaft diameter does to your effective "weight reduction"?

There are very little net weight savings from the rotation perspective.

Any reports of "feeling the difference" from the mod like this, are what is called a placebo effect.