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Spyder Surging when idling

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Yeah, could be a lot of things.

When you say idle surge - can you provide more details - this description covers a couple different issues people generally complain about.

Example:
Engine running - warmed up - coolant 190deg and fans cycling on and off. Idle is high 2000+rpm, and then fuel cut hits and the idle drops, only to rev right back up again. repeat.

This is too much air bypassing the throttle plate while the throttle closed position switch is on.
 
 
Yeah, could be a lot of things.

When you say idle surge - can you provide more details - this description covers a couple different issues people generally complain about.

Example:
Engine running - warmed up - coolant 190deg and fans cycling on and off. Idle is high 2000+rpm, and then fuel cut hits and the idle drops, only to rev right back up again. repeat.

This is too much air bypassing the throttle plate while the throttle closed position switch is on.
It's surges maybe I can get a video it searches why it's idling and then it sometimes revs up when it's driving
 
Hey guys my 4g64 is surging when idling and revs up when driving. OBD2 said O2, just fixed that don't know what's wrong told could be a lot of things 😩 HELP

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Your profile is unclear. Have you done an engine swap or not? You have a front mount intercooler. Is it turbo? There is not a mods list in your profile. Fill us in on what you have etc so we can help you diagnose.
 
Yeah, could be a lot of things.

When you say idle surge - can you provide more details - this description covers a couple different issues people generally complain about.

Example:
Engine running - warmed up - coolant 190deg and fans cycling on and off. Idle is high 2000+rpm, and then fuel cut hits and the idle drops, only to rev right back up again. repeat.

This is too much air bypassing the throttle plate while the throttle closed position switch is on.
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Your profile is unclear. Have you done an engine swap or not? You have a front mount intercooler. Is it turbo? There is not a mods list in your profile. Fill us in on what you have etc so we can help you diagnose.
No the 4g63 is in my garage the intercooler is on the front as storage because I have nowhere to put it 😂 it currently is a 4g64 automatic with $190,000 miles on it. I have a 5-speed transmission with the other engine and a stage 2 clutch that I have yet to figure out how to swap once I figure it out I'll get it done put the other ECU that's been tuned on the car and the other wiring harness. I have everything I believe that I need from a 97 GST that I gutted over 6 years ago.
As far as the surging it's surging when I'm idling sitting in the car but it also will rev up when I'm driving sometimes now sometimes my surging gets better when it warms up but not always.
 
Thank u thank you!!
 
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OH Kay - that is not the typical "idle surge" due to big air leaks. You would see your RPM needle climbing past 2000, and then dropping down. What you have there is a great idle for some people. ;-)

Your OBDII code reader will help you identify the check engine light. If you had one code for the 02 sensor, and you replaced the sensor - you can get a new read on the check engine light code to see if it is the same issue, or the "next" issue to address.

I think you may still be able to borrow a code reader from places that rent tools like Autozone.
 
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Ya, that not what we call idle surging. Here's an example of a 2G surging once he plugs the MAF back in.

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Okay yeah mine's not that bad it does search though when it's idling like the RPM gauge is like moving around it settles after it warms up I'm glad mine's not that bad thanks for the video
 
OH Kay - that is not the typical "idle surge" due to big air leaks. You would see your RPM needle climbing past 2000, and then dropping down. What you have there is a great idle for some people. ;-)

Your OBDII code reader will help you identify the check engine light. If you had one code for the 02 sensor, and you replaced the sensor - you can get a new read on the check engine light code to see if it is the same issue, or the "next" issue to address.

I think you may still be able to borrow a code reader from places that rent tools like Autozone.
Yeah I'm going to do that this week. I'm just trying to get her running good for daily while I rebuild my other engine but then I want to swap it to the 4g63 and the other ECU eventually
 
OBD2 codes in my experience are about as good as poking around the engine bay in many cases. Something many people don't suggest is If you already have a laptop and a few bucks get a cable and software that can poll OBD2 sensor data. The factory polling rate on our cars sucks but being able your see your fuel trims, how much air its metering, and how your O2 sensor is oscillating all under various operating conditions its better than guessing based on behavior and what codes the ECU has generated. Much of the cost effective software out there will also graph and record it for you so you can see what it was doing after a drive. I started with OBDlink SX because its what was cheapest and the included software did what I needed at the time. I'm sure if you poke around their are likely better options now.
 
OBD2 codes in my experience are about as good as poking around the engine bay in many cases. Something many people don't suggest is If you already have a laptop and a few bucks get a cable and software that can poll OBD2 sensor data. The factory polling rate on our cars sucks but being able your see your fuel trims, how much air its metering, and how your O2 sensor is oscillating all under various operating conditions its better than guessing based on behavior and what codes the ECU has generated. Much of the cost effective software out there will also graph and record it for you so you can see what it was doing after a drive. I started with OBDlink SX because its what was cheapest and the included software did what I needed at the time. I'm sure if you poke around their are likely better options now.
Okay that sounds really complicated especially since I'm just now learning my engine I'm just going to follow the link with all the different things that could be wrong and start looking for vacuum leaks replacing the IAC and the TPS possibly
 
Get it scanned again at AutoZone, Advanced Auto, or O'Rielys. Whatever you have local. If it's the O2 code again then there is still something wrong with it. If it's something else then that is a clue.

Check to see if there is slack in your throttle cable like there should be. Testing the ISC coil resistance is a good idea as is gentle cleaning of the TB. Don't buy any parts until it's been clearly identified as defective.
 
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