Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[bryanwheat]

What do you mean by it starts but won't turn over? Turning over is referring to the engine turning when you hit the key.

 

[camas90gsx]

I didnt say that it starts. It just keeps turning and turning and turning but wont start.

 

[gho5tone]

No start 101

 

[motozachl]

Check fuel pressure, cas 180* out, timing, everything plugged in

 

[camas90gsx]

No start 101

The mechanic says that when he turns the key the needle on the boost gauge goes up to the zero mark, im on my way to his shop right now to see whats going on with it, so if anyone has any more ideas please let me know. I will keep you posted on whats going on with it. Thank you so much for your help so far, hopefully I can get this damn car going today.

 

[GsxMan98]

Its supposed to go to zero.

 

[camas90gsx]

*UPDATE* We got the car to start, but theres a vaccum leak now. You can hear it on the drivers side near the intake manifold, so im not sure if its the actual intake manifold where the leak is, or if theres just a vaccum line that isnt hooked up. The car will keep running as long as you give it throttle, but if you let off the throttle it dies. Help or suggestions please. Thanks

 

[Talon_Spade]

Do a boost leak test.... Look it up... You can make a tester for less than $20... I just built a new one after my move and it was like $19 but I put two fittings for a hand pump/bike pump or for a quick hose connect from my air compressor. You can find an excellent write up on how to do these things on VFAQ....

 

[camas90gsx]

We got it running it turned out that the oring for one of the injecrors wasnt in.It started and after it was idling perfect for awhile i reved it up to pull it out of the shop and it started knocking when i rev it up!!So after all of this it has rod knock,i dont know if the guy i got the block from didnt get the crank machined or if a rod didnt get sized right or what.All i know is that when i rev it it knocks pretty loud.The mechanic said he checked the block and the baerings were all new,but the guy might have rigged it to look all good.He said he can drop the pan on sunday and check it out,and maybe send out the crank to get done and get the rod sized.He thinks its just from the #2 cylinder and he could get it to normal with doing that.Ofcourse this will cost me alot more money to do all of this.What im afraid of is that i will spend even more money and there will be something else or this might not even fix the problem at all.I am so fed up with this situation! I bought this block because it had all almost new internals,it was bored nicely and i had all the paperwork to prove it.Then i sent my head to the machine shop and had everything done with it.Also im worried that maybe this stuff could have damaged the head,i dont know.I have put a TON of money into this and see no end in sight.Should i just get rid of this car once and for all and get it over with?

 

[fourgsixthree33]

I've had the injector rings go bad causing the noise you were describing as well.

Don't ditch the car. Drop the pan and start there. That will tell you a lot.

 

[camas90gsx]

He is saying i can get the crank measured and done and get the rod sized along with new bearings and it should be good.Does that seem feasible to y'all?

I just talked to the mechanic and he thinks there is going to be more than just bearings as an issue because of how loud it was knocking.I dont know what im going to do,im just completely fed up and discouraged with the whole thing.

 

[solson1041]

Hi guys I just had my head rebuilt, it's been a relatively long process. But I got the car back together today and it's turning over with fuel and spark, but it's not catching. I don't know what to do.

My brother said something he had to do on his stratus r/t was to reset the coil pack as he thinks the spark plugs aren't sparking at the right time. I can't really test this, but I can't find anything about doing that. I've checked and double checked and everything in the car is how it should be to my eyes, no loose connections or anything. I'm at a loss because I really just want to get to driving my beloved car again.

Any help?

Thanks so much.

 

[PFC_CiarlilloM]

I finally got the car towed up to my place today, is there any easy way to check the alternator plugs? It seems pretty buried. I was thinking of jacking it up and going in from the bottom?

So I just soldered the the Power Window Fuseable Link (even though I dont have power windows) and Radiator Fan Fuseable Link that I blew and put the negative terminal back on and the car started. I really dont think the Fuseable Link's were the issue. I think my negative terminal is where the short has to be.

 

[92AWDHX40]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

 

[solson1041]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

oh awesome, thanks a bunch. I'll look over this and see if I have any other, more specific questions.

Edit: okay, so I read that, and I have timing, fuel, spark and compression is ~80 in each cyl. The guy from the shop said something about the head needing to break in before everything sat the way it should... So is 80 just too low to start? Is there anything I can do get it running for a bit so that it can break in?

Thanks.

 

[delta448]

Make sure the mechanical timing is not off. Sounds like the cams aren't aligned for proper compression.

Timing Belt VFAQ (Timing Belt TSB - ENHANCED)

 

[solson1041]

We went back out to work on it and found for some reason, those compression numbers I gave were way off. It's nowhere near 80, they're hovering around 20 at best.

We're thinking the shop forgot to shorten the valve stems after they reseated the valves, and now the valves never close. Though, I cannot imagine they managed to forget to do that, it's a very reputable shop that actually has a semi legitimate race team as half their business.

As I left the shop when I picked it up, I was in a hurry and didn't hear everything the guy said (stupid, I know), but he said something about if it didn't run well right away, to give it some time and the head should "settle" or whatever. He was saying he had problems getting the hydrolic lifters to be where he wanted them. ...But my dad, doesn't seem to think there are any lifters on a dohc engine. Can anyone shed some light on this issue?

Thanks for the help

 

[92AWDHX40]

Ok there are lifters on our engine those numbers sound bad, compression that is. I would pull the head since you have such low compression and have that head checked out to make sure it isnt leaking anywhere, so i would do that next then let us know you find, chances are a leaky head, if the timing was done correctly the valves may be ok, but if it was off then your looking at replacing some valves, hey ive been there many times, but i learned a lot over the years.

 

[solson1041]

Ok there are lifters on our engine those numbers sound bad, compression that is. I would pull the head since you have such low compression and have that head checked out to make sure it isnt leaking anywhere, so i would do that next then let us know you find, chances are a leaky head, if the timing was done correctly the valves may be ok, but if it was off then your looking at replacing some valves, hey ive been there many times, but i learned a lot over the years.

Oh, I must not have mentioned this because I've gone in and out of threads asking advice on the issue, I JUST got the head back from the shop. It's clean and flat and non-leaky with freshly replaced (where needed) and reseated valves. Wouldn't it make sense to have terrible compression if the valves can't completely close? Are the rollers supposed to ALWAYS be touching the cams? because in my car they are, then they get pushed down further when the bulge comes by. Pic coming soon.

Edit:

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[MotoEclipse]

the only thing i could think of is, the valves aren't seating properly, or your timing is off. did you make sure the dow marks on the cams were facing up when you put the belt on?

and yes, the rollers should be touching the valves at all times. if they aren't you got bent valves! ive been through all this, belt tensioner went out, all the intakes valves went to heaven. did you torque your head to the proper torque, and sequence?

 

[92AWDHX40]

That looks like the ones ive always seen.

 

[solson1041]

the only thing i could think of is, the valves aren't seating properly, or your timing is off. did you make sure the dow marks on the cams were facing up when you put the belt on?

and yes, the rollers should be touching the valves at all times. if they aren't you got bent valves! ive been through all this, belt tensioner went out, all the intakes valves went to heaven. did you torque your head to the proper torque, and sequence?

The timing is correct with the marks facing in and the dowl rods pointing up. Since the head was just redone, I have a hard time wanting to think it's the valves themselves not seating properly. I torqued the head to the proper sequence and everything, new gaskets obviously as well.

I can't figure it out.. The next thing on my mind to do is just throw some starter fluid into the throttle body and see if I can't get it to catch. As I said I can't remember all the specifics from the convo I had with the guy at the shop two weeks ago, but he said if it ran rough when I first started it, to give it some time and it should work itself out. But it seems to me that it's so bad that it won't start at all to work itself out and get "settled".

I'm feelin stumped.

 

[bryanwheat]

If the compression is that low than spraying starter fluid in there isn't going to do any good. You either have the timing set wrong or the machine shop did a horrible job grinding the valves.

 

[Redwidow]

I would do a leak down test and figure out where its leaking from. It should be extremely obvious where the problem is.

 

[tommywsmith]

Make sure you pull all spark plugs when doing a compression test. If the numbers are below 80 psi it is impossible to start. I don't care if you pack the cylinders with nepalm. Without 80 psi it wont start. An old school trick. Pour about a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder then recheck compression. If number jump up the problem is your rings. If numbers don't move at all then its valves, gasket or cracked head.