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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

prodsm

Proven Member
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:

buhay6

10+ Year Contributor
1,651
55
Jul 9, 2010
Delisle, SK_Canada
Sorry for not getting back to you guys for a few day's, works been crazy.
I've already switched out the MPI rely with the one from my running 1g awd and swapped the one from the 90 into my car. the MPI rely was in perfect working condition.
I've read all the thread google can find on 90 no starts, I've come across a few with fuelling issues and it turned out that low fuel pressure was the cause for a no start as the fuel wasn't atomising as needed.
I'm going to steal the fuellab AFPR setup and walbro 255 from my AWD car and install that when I make the drive back out this weekend, that way I know exactly what the fuel pressure is at the rail. But I do know for a fact the fuel pumps running, fuel was flowing out at a decent rate when I crawled under the car. (1/8th of a tank on the ground in the few minutes I was trying to find the problem)
 

buhay6

10+ Year Contributor
1,651
55
Jul 9, 2010
Delisle, SK_Canada
Thats got to be one hell of a leak to cause the car to not start. I would ground the mpi relay and force the fuel pump on. Pin 7 white with red wire to ground. This will force the fuel pump on if the wiring and fuses to the pump are good.
I've had the lower I/C pipe pop off on my car before and it caused it to not start period. On the 90 I found the SMIC outlet with the rubber elbow on it was pretty corroded when I popped the hose off, with out a doubt it wasn't sealing. Corrosion wasn't totally through the pip yet but it wasn't far off.
 

buhay6

10+ Year Contributor
1,651
55
Jul 9, 2010
Delisle, SK_Canada
Lots of people break the sending units when they do fuel pump swaps because the line fittings get so rusted together (ask me how I know...) Definitely swap a new one in, this should help, but im still not convinced that this is the only issue.
I almost broke mine on my awd too, I came across cement etching acid and decided to use it. Worked wonders in the matter of like 5 minutes, I was bending my flare nut wrenching trying to get the connection loose before using the acid. Ended up cleaning the whole sending unit with the acid to paint it with really good results.
 

gsxeclipse102

Proven Member
564
128
Mar 8, 2003
carmel, New_York
I've had the lower I/C pipe pop off on my car before and it caused it to not start period. On the 90 I found the SMIC outlet with the rubber elbow on it was pretty corroded when I popped the hose off, with out a doubt it wasn't sealing. Corrosion wasn't totally through the pip yet but it wasn't far off.
I was talking about the fuel line leaking.
 

buhay6

10+ Year Contributor
1,651
55
Jul 9, 2010
Delisle, SK_Canada
I was talking about the fuel line leaking.
From what I've found on it so far it doesnt take much lose in pressure to fuel rail to cause a no start. The injectors maybe putting fuel in the intake but its not being atomized enough for ignition.
 

buhay6

10+ Year Contributor
1,651
55
Jul 9, 2010
Delisle, SK_Canada
Well i got the fuel pump fixed and found the 90 ecu was toast so i swapped in my 91 ecu and changed pin 6 and 14 with each other like stated but the car barely idles and doesn't want to rev. Bogs out misses and wants to die while trying to drive it. I thought the ECU swap was supposed to make it run like it did on the 90 ECU or am I missing something?
The engine lights on while running as well if thats any clue, I didn't have my little LED blinker with me to take the codes with.
Ok did a little searching of my symptoms and found its more then likely a bad TPS.
 
Last edited:

greddy_1700

15+ Year Contributor
1,001
73
Aug 27, 2006
Regina, SK_Canada
A bad MAF would also do that. I forgot to plug mine in one time and it acted like that. I know the PO replaced it, but is it with a known good part?
 

buhay6

10+ Year Contributor
1,651
55
Jul 9, 2010
Delisle, SK_Canada
Well i got some bad news....the engine went pop when i was trying to figure out the problem.
I was pulling the codes and it was throwing one and I'd fix it then itd just throw a different one.
First one it threw was code 25 barometric pressure sensor. I had my maf on it which i knew was good so i figured wiring. So i cut the wire for the barometric sensor at the plug and ecu and by passed the harness.
Then it threw code 15 motor position sensor (cas) and i knew that was good too. Thats when she litterly went pop and siezed solid. Popped the oil cap off and all i smelt was fuel....so more then likely an injector was stuck open.
500 down the drain but a valiable lesson learnt.
 

Jacob hoke

Supporting Member
99
45
Jul 5, 2016
West Valley, Utah
So about a week ago I purchased a 1992 Plymouth Laser all-wheel drive 5 speed the car has been sitting for about a year however the previous owner was able to get it started then I drove it around just fine seems like a pretty good deal for $1,000 with no rust however I got it home and couldn't get it started I replaced all the starter components, baterry wires, relay and much more even the ecu which looked in good working order, however I did notice that even with the car in neutral I can't move it maybe a clutch issue? If the clutch is engaged would it keep the car from moving paired with possible bad shifter linkage. It feels like the car is in neutral brakes aren't siezed i just purchased new calipers rotors and pads thought maybe T-case had siezed however that wouldn't cause the it not to start would it? I figure something has the clutch and flywheel grabbing even when I press in the clutch it the car won't move please help I'm lost in the sauce like a meatball in spaghetti factory
 

Vegas Smith

20+ Year Contributor
5,037
2,915
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Describe exactly what is happening when you try and move the car or start it. Does the starter struggle? Does the motor turn over? Does it turn over fine? You can't push the car even in neutral? Be specific. Do the tires rotate when off the ground?
 

Jacob hoke

Supporting Member
99
45
Jul 5, 2016
West Valley, Utah
Describe exactly what is happening when you try and move the car or start it. Does the starter struggle? Does the motor turn over? Does it turn over fine? You can't push the car even in neutral? Be specific. Do the tires rotate when off the ground?
Sorry I know its hard to diagnose without being there in person I'll try my best to be very discriptive however with car in neutral foot on the clutch fully charged battery I try to crank the engine on however I get nothing as far as engine turning over or even the starter engaged I am the only person working on it so I will phone e a friend tonight so someone can crank the car while I'm under the hood but I get all the clicks in the cab one from behind the radio and a quieter one on the left I believe from the starter relay, also I will attempt to push in the clutch with car in neutral and have the car pushed "father came over" it also did not move I will jack the car off the ground today and attempt to spin all the tire however I'm fairly certain they won't spin (we will see) which is why I thought the Tcase may have locked up with all that nothing seems to move the car drove fine for about 2 days then one morning it started this clutch felt fine and so did the gears and it felt smooth shifting into all gears
 

Vegas Smith

20+ Year Contributor
5,037
2,915
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Hmm, if the starter wont turn the engine over then you may just have a bad starter or maybe a bad/dead battery that isn't supplying enough power to starter. look online and learn how to check for appropriate voltage at both starter and battery. You'll need a multimeter to do this. I'm still not sure why you think the tires won't spin. You didn't mention fi you actually tried to push the car yet.
 

Jacob hoke

Supporting Member
99
45
Jul 5, 2016
West Valley, Utah
Hmm, if the starter wont turn the engine over then you may just have a bad starter or maybe a bad/dead battery that isn't supplying enough power to starter. look online and learn how to check for appropriate voltage at both starter and battery. You'll need a multimeter to do this. I'm still not sure why you think the tires won't spin. You didn't mention fi you actually tried to push the car yet.
Yes I've attempted to push the car when it was in neutral haha even tried pulling it with my truck a few feet (not smart I know but hey I was flustered haha) I will check in about 3 hours when I'm off work I have a multimeter figured the flow would be good since I replaced everything but who knows maybe a bad part from factory I'll start from the battery and work my way to the starter battery is only a few days old though so I doubt that's it .....so list of things to check
1) battery output to starter
.2) all connections
.3)shifter linkage
.4) put car in air and spin tires to see if they rotate while the car is in "neutral"
.5) clutch and assembly hydrolics ( not sure exactly how to check that ....Google here I come haha
Any thing else that would be recommend
 

Dstarperformance01

Proven Member
884
176
Mar 5, 2016
Mustang, Oklahoma
Hey we don't use the "S" word around here haha any way I can check without pulling the tranny I'm sure if I turn it with a wrench on the dampaner but that would only work if the car does actually go into neutral right

If it's in neutral then yes it should spin freely
If the clutch is sized up or toasted then the starter should still try to spin engine and lurch the car forward. If the car/starter does nothing then it's not clutch. Can you heard the starter bendix kick out and make a clicking sound? If engine is "S'ed" then it would make the sound but not try to "turn engine over/crank it ". If it does absolutely nothing then there is an electrical issue. Have you double checked all wire connections at starter and battery? If so, then check current to starter while attempting to crank/start it see if you have a voltage drop.
 

petegsx

Proven Member
131
21
Jun 24, 2016
Lafayette, Tennessee
Just to be safe, make sure your battery is 100%, I know it's only a few days old but it could be possible that you have tried to start the car too much and ran the battery low or the car may have slowly drained the battery. Like my car, the little ring around the ignition that lights up, my light never goes out.Tap on the starter while someone turns the key or cross the starter. The solenoid could be froze up. Unplug neutral safety switch, could be a wiring issue in the harness itself so don't just make sure it's plugged in, unplug it. Make sure the female connector is connected to the male tab on the starter. Trace that female starter connector in your wire harness and make sure it's plugged into your harness. Also make sure everything is making good contact with no corrosion. All of this is just what has been pasted onto me recently for no start issues, hopefully and maybe it will help. But whatever happens, don't give up!:thumb:
 

Jacob hoke

Supporting Member
99
45
Jul 5, 2016
West Valley, Utah
Thanks for the help guys got her running I found a burnt out wire in the ignition system causing a short looked to be ate up by a rat or something however the T case was swapped out it wasn't frozen but was damn near impossible to turn by hand good thing the car came with a spare tranny Tcase and diff but I was able to clean all the grounds aff also just in case also disconnected the safety switch turns out that it went out on me also haha I hate electrical issues thanks for the help guys again I wouldn't have figures it out without this page
 

2gGst98

10+ Year Contributor
706
58
Oct 3, 2010
Concord, North_Carolina
Later. (That was supposed to be in header)

So last Friday I pretty much ran out of gas, it started bogging out and sounded like misfire and back fires from no gas. AF narrow band went lean. I managed to coast into station and fill up. Then it started right up, pulled out and got into boost a little all seemed fine. Then 5 min down the road and it looses power, back fires and basically died as I pulled over.

Went on vaca for weekend towed it home and worked a little on it today.

Replaced fuel filter thinking it picked up sediment, checked for power at fuel pump, disconnected fuel line at rail and cranked, got fuel pushing out. Tested spark on cylinder 1 and I don't think I have spark. Grounded plug on cam sensor housing and upper control arm bolt.. Battery started to dye at this point so it could be because battery is low. I'm charging bat and I'm doing searching but figured I would post this for some advice for me.

Any help is much appreciated
 
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