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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

prodsm

Proven Member
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:

James J

Probationary Member
2
0
Oct 8, 2016
Burlington, Iowa
I recently bought my first DSM, a 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo. I love the car, it's a blast and a half to drive and completely unmodified, which seems hard to find. Well, after a few days of spirited driving, I went to get gas and the car wouldn't start on its own. Turn the key, no click, nothing. I had my brother push the car and it pop started effortlessly and runs great once it's started. I assumed it must be the starter relay, solenoid, or starter, but these all turned out to be good. What else could it be? A ground? Nothing obvious is hanging off, and the engine bay isn't exactly spacious, so I'm not sure where to even begin. Any ideas?
 

James J

Probationary Member
2
0
Oct 8, 2016
Burlington, Iowa
I forgot to mention that, but I did disconnect it before replacing the starter, and it was not the issue. I went ahead and plugged it back in after that.
 

joejoe

Proven Member
126
17
May 19, 2016
millcreek, Washington
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/stumped-on-no-start-no-crank.416211/

Read through this. If you're not 100% certain starter is okay try jumping the 2 terminals with a screw driver. The thread i linked will point that out too.
same thing happend me... turned out my ignition switch was bad... I push started that thing for 2 weeks haha. I also had zero noises of any sort.
 
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thakingcb7

Proven Member
198
6
Feb 8, 2015
Lewistown, Pennsylvania
I've had this issue for a few months now. When it doesn't crank, I get my trusty 13mm out of the glove box and tighten the power wire on the starter. Doesn't matter how tight I get it... after 2-3 days I have to do it again. One of these days I'll actually buy a new starter but today isn't that day.
 

95GSX4111

Probationary Member
11
0
Jun 17, 2015
Neenah, Wisconsin
Hey there fellow dsm'ers.
I'm reaching out to the wide world of the web now for a little help on my problem.
2 or 3 weeks ago i drove my gsx home from work...It needed a rear tire so I had to park it for a little bit.
This last Saturday I tried to go out and start it... IT DID NOTHING.
Here's what Ive done and what Ive heard so far.
Battery removed and tested at autozone. Fine, full charge
Starter removed and tested at autozone. Tested fine.
Came home and put original starter back in. Still nothing.
Ordered and just installed a new starter.... Still nothing
All the dash lights and radio come on...locks windows everything works.
I'm at a bit of a loss.
When you insert the key and turn in to ACC position you can hear these 2 audible almost click or knock sounds pretty quick...click click. When you turn the key to the start position the lights inside the car do not change but the car does not even try to crank the only thing ive noticed in the car is the radio display lights go off and come back( unrelated? or possibly its supposed to do that for the stereo security) ... upon letting off the start position the same 2 audible clicks can be heard. Thats all it does... the clicks.
I had someone else turn the key for me and it really seems the clicks are coming from the starter itsself.
Ive had a lot of problems with purchasing starters so
Did I perhaps get another bad starter?
or is it something else?
Thank you guys for your help.
 

Dstarperformance01

Proven Member
884
176
Mar 5, 2016
Mustang, Oklahoma
Have you checked or sealed relays for the starter? Also, check connections at starter pod. and beg and at battery also. The click you are hearing is from starts solenoid trying to kick the bendix out to fly wheel. It sounds like a voltage issue, like not enough to kick bendix all the way out and to turn the engine.
 

boostdawd

Supporting Member
1,437
324
Apr 6, 2010
phoenix, Arizona
Is your car 5 speed? Try to push start it. If u got the new starter from an auto parts store, well that might be a problem. These things fail stright from the box. It's a hit or miss really. Did u verify voltage going to the starter solenoid when u try and crank it. I would start troubleshooting and checking currents.
 

luv2rallye

DSM Wiseman
8,441
1,202
Jun 7, 2003
Minneapolis, Minnesota
You may be dropping voltage across bad (corroded, dirty, not tight enough) battery to starter cable connections. Measure voltage AT THE STARTER SOLENOID while trying to start. Remove, clean, and retighten ALL connections (at battery AND at starter). Battery negative must be a cable that goes directly from battery to a starter mounting bolt.
 

buhay6

10+ Year Contributor
1,651
55
Jul 9, 2010
Delisle, SK_Canada
I just bought a 90 turbo fwd that's not starting and I'm starting to draw a blank here. When I seen the Ad I thought for sure it'd be just big boost leak from an I/C pipe blowing off but I can't find anything wrong on that side of things. I've confirmed timing, compression, spark, and that the CEL light come on then goes out, boost gauge needle goes to zero with ingition on like its supposed to. I've also swapped the CAS with a known working one and changed the coolant temp sensor with one of my spares. Engine doesn't seem like it even wants to start.
So now the only other potential problems I can think of are FPR, ECU, MPI relay, or injector resister pack, am I missing anything else?
PO replaced, fuel pump, fuel filter, and MAF because it was bogging when he was driving it, and parked it when the parts didn't fix it (early August this year)
One thing I didn't realise is how different the 90 1g intake and smic is from the 91+'s...... I had brought a full 1gb intake smic setup along but couldn't even use it... first time dealing with a 90 year model.
 
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greddy_1700

15+ Year Contributor
1,001
73
Aug 27, 2006
Regina, SK_Canada
First step is to open up that ecu. See whats going on there, look for damaged capacitors or burnt circuits.

So you have verified the timing belt didnt slip, that the compression is all even and acceptable, and that you are getting spark to all four plugs correct? I dont see you mentioning that you have verified that you are getting fuel.

Also take a look at the wiring to each injector, as they get very brittle and break easily.

Yeah, 90's have some fun little intricacies to them.
 

kmetiuk

10+ Year Contributor
521
125
Mar 10, 2010
Edmonton, AB_Canada
First step is to open up that ecu. See whats going on there, look for damaged capacitors or burnt circuits.

So you have verified the timing belt didnt slip, that the compression is all even and acceptable, and that you are getting spark to all four plugs correct? I dont see you mentioning that you have verified that you are getting fuel.

Also take a look at the wiring to each injector, as they get very brittle and break easily.

Yeah, 90's have some fun little intricacies to them.

+1 on the fuel. If you have spark and air it can only be fuel. (assuming the latter 2 are indeed working)
 

buhay6

10+ Year Contributor
1,651
55
Jul 9, 2010
Delisle, SK_Canada
ok well I made the 2 hour drive again today to try and fix the problem. I did confirm spark to all four plugs (very good spark), the wiring harness is in phenomenal condition... nothings brittle nothings cracked no wires exposed, nothing to suggest a problem (i know famous last words).
I did notice yesterday that the intake wasn't really secure to the turbo inlet which was probably the causing un-metered air/dirt to getting in (found dirt inside the SMIC piping). I got my intake and SMIC setup installed with a little bending and such.
But I did confirm there's a fuel problem, swapped the MPI rely with the one from my awd talon and pulled the FPR fuel return line off the fire wall location cranked the engine over and no fuel came out the return side. Then I found the fuel pump assemblies leaking fuel on pressure side right where the tube comes out of the sending unit base. So that's my main problem, you guys were correct.
I have a n/t sending unit but I'm unsure is the turbo fwd and n/t units are the same, its been so long since I parted out my GS eclipse I can't remember what the tank looked like. I just can't see them being different.... other then the pump its self.
If the sending unit inst the key then my last ditch effort is to swap in my 91+ ecu and change pins 6 /14
 

greddy_1700

15+ Year Contributor
1,001
73
Aug 27, 2006
Regina, SK_Canada
Lots of people break the sending units when they do fuel pump swaps because the line fittings get so rusted together (ask me how I know...) Definitely swap a new one in, this should help, but im still not convinced that this is the only issue.
 

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
8,434
2,951
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
I just bought a 90 turbo fwd that's not starting and I'm starting to draw a blank here. When I seen the Ad I thought for sure it'd be just big boost leak from an I/C pipe blowing off but I can't find anything wrong on that side of things. I've confirmed timing, compression, spark, and that the CEL light come on then goes out, boost gauge needle goes to zero with ingition on like its supposed to. I've also swapped the CAS with a known working one and changed the coolant temp sensor with one of my spares. Engine doesn't seem like it even wants to start.
So now the only other potential problems I can think of are FPR, ECU, MPI relay, or injector resister pack, am I missing anything else?
PO replaced, fuel pump, fuel filter, and MAF because it was bogging when he was driving it, and parked it when the parts didn't fix it (early August this year)
One thing I didn't realise is how different the 90 1g intake and smic is from the 91+'s...... I had brought a full 1gb intake smic setup along but couldn't even use it... first time dealing with a 90 year model.
If I recall the only thing different is the ic inlet and lower hoses. If you had 91 up lower hoses it should have fit.
 

gsxeclipse102

Proven Member
564
128
Mar 8, 2003
carmel, New_York
Thats got to be one hell of a leak to cause the car to not start. I would ground the mpi relay and force the fuel pump on. Pin 7 white with red wire to ground. This will force the fuel pump on if the wiring and fuses to the pump are good.
 

buhay6

10+ Year Contributor
1,651
55
Jul 9, 2010
Delisle, SK_Canada
Lots of people break the sending units when they do fuel pump swaps because the line fittings get so rusted together (ask me how I know...) Definitely swap a new one in, this should help, but im still not convinced that this is the only issue.
Like wise, the only thing i havent swapped with known working parts was the ecu and injector resistor pack so we'll see which ones the fix.
 

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
8,434
2,951
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
Thats got to be one hell of a leak to cause the car to not start. I would ground the mpi relay and force the fuel pump on. Pin 7 white with red wire to ground. This will force the fuel pump on if the wiring and fuses to the pump are good.
Even that isnt necessary. There is a factory fuel pump check connector under the hood. 12v to that jumps the relay. Easy to get to.
 

gsxeclipse102

Proven Member
564
128
Mar 8, 2003
carmel, New_York
The fuel pump check connector is on the power feed side to the pump. Yes it will power up the pump but wont tell you if the mpi relay works. The relay uses a ground (ecu) to control power to the pump.
 

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