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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

prodsm

Proven Member
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:

2gGst98

10+ Year Contributor
706
58
Oct 3, 2010
Concord, North_Carolina
All fuses under hood check out.

I did just hook up evo scan, turned pump on and it's good.

I read to check crank signal while cranking

Crank signal stays at 0

Iv read that's because I'm a 98 and they use cam sensor not a separate crank sensor not sure though.
 
Last edited:

2gGst98

10+ Year Contributor
706
58
Oct 3, 2010
Concord, North_Carolina
So after reading few threads on here about what to test and pulling out the multi meter then testing OHMs all over the place. Everything tested fine, then hooked all plugs back up and charging battery it has spark and it fired up. Found 2 broken tabbs and I'm thinking it was a loose connection. But thanks for the moral support guys always helps.
 

Jacolu3

Proven Member
642
130
Jan 31, 2015
Lake Grove, New_York
So I just finished pulling the tranny and shimming the fork and now I go to start the engine and I get no cranking at all.
I hear the fuel pump going but the engine won't cranks
I checked the battery and I'm getting 12.5 volts
I checked the starter and I'm getting over 12 volts with the key in acc
The lights on the dash light up and I'm able to connect to dsm link.
I confirmed the signal wire is connected to the starter and the ground wire is connected to the starter bolt going through the bell housing.
I also checked for continuity from the battery negative to the starter negative and I get continuity.
The car started no problem before the swap and I disconnected the battery before touching the starter.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Brian
 

jim95redgsx

15+ Year Contributor
130
48
Jan 26, 2005
Melbourne, Florida

Jacolu3

Proven Member
642
130
Jan 31, 2015
Lake Grove, New_York
There is a one wire (black/yellow) connector that runs between the main engine harness and the starter harness. It is located behind and below the thermostat housing. It carries the start signal from the starter relay (under the dash) to the starter solenoid (on the starter). Here's a pic:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/page-2#post-151542290

Make sure that it's plugged in.

Jim


Wow I just found that connection and one side of the plug was missing the wire. I'll have to redo the connector but I'm sure this was the problem.
Thank you very much for your help!!
 

talon85

Probationary Member
28
0
Sep 13, 2002
Kennesaw, Georgia
I am having a problem with my 92 Talon Tsi AWD. The car has 269000 miles and I recently had the head redone. When the car is cold (ambient air temp is irrelevant) it takes many tries before the car will run. It cranks over fine but just won't run. After several tries it will start to run but you have to keep the revs up until it warms up. Once warm everything works like it should. The check engine light is also on. I have changed the oxygen sensor, the idle speed control solenoid and the plugs are new as well as all the vacuum lines and pcv valve. The gas tank has been reworked and coated. The Walbro 190 fuel pump is new and has been rewired with large gauge wire. Timing equipment is all new as well as new radiator and all hoses. The only maintenance item that has not been replaced is the fuel filter as I cannot get the banjo bolt loose from the top. I am open to suggestions!!!! Thanks in advance for your help!
 

talon85

Probationary Member
28
0
Sep 13, 2002
Kennesaw, Georgia
Well, I replaced the coolant temperature sensor with the correct Mitsubishi factory part and unfortunately, no change in the situation. Still hard to start when cold. If you keep cranking it over and pumping the gas it will finally fire off and if you keep it revving till warm it's fine after that. Car will sometimes backfire when cranking before it's warm. Anyone have any ideas?

Your thoughts are appreciated!!!!
 

talon85

Probationary Member
28
0
Sep 13, 2002
Kennesaw, Georgia
I had it repaired previously but have not touched it since. My radio has also stopped working though.
 

ThunderChild

Supporting VIP
3,760
1,132
Jan 5, 2012
Rathdrum, Idaho
Which sensor did you replace? there are three different sensors: one in radiator for fan relay, two in thermostat housing; one is a two pin style for the ecu, then a single wire spade connector style for the dash gauge.

The ecu is another good idea to check.
 

talon85

Probationary Member
28
0
Sep 13, 2002
Kennesaw, Georgia
I will get some Royal Purple or Redline fuel system cleaner and give that a try. I will probably also take it to someone to get the fuel filter changed. I am just chicken to break the fuel line:D
 

gsxeclipse102

Proven Member
564
128
Mar 8, 2003
carmel, New_York
Theres two devices on your car for idling 1. Isc motor 2. Fiav. Your problem sounds like fiav. Its either bad or theres air trapped in the coolant section of it. Try bleeding the air or swapping in another one. Its possible isc is bad but you would have idle problemd all the time not just cold. It should be removed/cleaned and checked for proper operation.
 

ThunderChild

Supporting VIP
3,760
1,132
Jan 5, 2012
Rathdrum, Idaho
Theres two devices on your car for idling 1. Isc motor 2. Fiav. Your problem sounds like fiav. Its either bad or theres air trapped in the coolant section of it. Try bleeding the air or swapping in another one. Its possible isc is bad but you would have idle problemd all the time not just cold. It should be removed/cleaned and checked for proper operation.

i thought this too at first, and i guess an air bubble could be to blame, but id expect it to have idle surge. i guess if its stuck closed or had an air bubble then it could cause the problem too. just didnt add up to a FIAV in my mind, but its a possibility.

since the proper coolant temp sensor was replaced, id start suspecting fuel pressure loss.
 

talon85

Probationary Member
28
0
Sep 13, 2002
Kennesaw, Georgia
I have already replaced the ISC. How do you bleed the FIAV? Does anyone know the part number for FIAV?
 

boostdawd

Supporting Member
1,437
324
Apr 6, 2010
phoenix, Arizona
Have you tested your fuel pressure? When cold try to hot wire the fuel pump for a few seconds to build pressure. There is a small black connector next to the firewall. Do this at your own risk. Also, regarding the coolant temp sensor there is 2 that look alike. One is for the ac and the other is for the coolant temp for ecu. Make sure it's the lower one.
 
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