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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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You would probably get better advice from a different forum that is about 2000-2005 3g's. This is all 1g and 2g cars on here I know nothing about the 3g's besides its a 6 cylinder LOL. But you missed something for sure, I would go back to step one and start over. Something isn't plugged in right or you have the firing order backwards.
 
Is there a table somewhere that shows what color Mitsubishi injectors output are CC?s? I got some reman injectors from Ebay, said it fit all 91 Eclipse 4g63, but having a problem staying running. checked all sensors, ordered a new coolant temp sensor and coil relay, just replaced all the valves, gets good compression, knock sensor replaced, fuel filter, fuel pump replaced. Injectors I received are not black like the ones I removed. Could the injectors out of a nonTurbo cause such a problem? When it starts, it runs for a second then dies, If I pump the pedal, I can get it to rev, my tach is reading correctly, turbo gauge drops to negative numbers, no check engine lights either. Unsure if Cam angle sensor is in correctly since my mechanic removed it when doing the valves. Any ideas? :banghead:
 
What color are the injectors and what is the part number on the injector body? Non turbo injectors are high impedence and do not require a injector resistor box. All turbo injectors are low impedence and require a resistor box.
 
I have a '97 Eclipse Spyder GS. One day while I was driving at about 60-65 mph I heard a noise like a clunk and it instantly spiked the tach to 8 and then went to 0 and shut the car off. After I coasted it off the road and got it home I found out that my catalytic converter broke off from the tailpipe and the downstream oxygen sensor wire was ripped off from the tailpipe being able to move sideways. I replaced the oxygen sensor and catalytic converter but it still won't start. After not being able to get it started I checked and was not getting spark. Any thoughts on what the issue could be? Thanks.
 
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I know the ones I pulled were black, but the ones I installed were not, I will pull the rail and see.

OK, I checker the ones I pulled and ther are B450L Blue with INP .009 on one side, the replacement ones are N240H Tan/Orange with INP .059 on side. Would that be enough difference to cause it to idle low, rough, sometimes rev when I play with the throttle. Also does not feel like any throttle response, but have verified TPS sweeps in range. Only part not original from before I removed the head are valves, valve seats and the injectors. Have a cooling fan switch/temp sensor on order and just received the coil relay.
 
I have a '98 GS-T that Ive been working on. The car was a 6 bolt swapped car that was 100% stock when I bought it. It ran fine when I parked it about a month ago. I tore into the engine bay to add some modifications and to generally clean it up. Here are a list of things that I did...

1) DSMlink V3 w/'95 ecu
2) EVO 9 560cc injectors
3) EVO 9 fuel pump + rewire
4) 16G turbo
5) Custom lower IC pipe
6) Apexi 3" turbo back
7) New fuel filter
8) New spark plugs
9) New spark plug wires

I finished putting everything back together today and the car wouldn't start. I cranked it for a bit and it sounded like it wanted to kick over but it wouldn't. I checked the plugs and they were covered in fuel. I cleaned them with brake cleaner and tried starting it a few more times to no avail. Here are some things I checked/tried out...

1) New plug wires
2) New plugs
3) Good spark (had g/f crank while I held each plug/wire on strut tower)
4) Getting fuel (plugs are covered each time I try to start + fuel coming from exhaust after some long cranking)
5) Checked all sensors/plugs
6) Checked CAS orientation
7) Re-checked CAS wiring
8) Advanced and retarded CAS timing - no difference
9) Checked mechanical timing
10) Re-checked base settings on DSMlink
11) Inverted CAS signal back and forth (for ****s and giggles - no difference)
12) Checked ground wires in engine bay
13) Swapped plug wires ('95 ECU in '98)

No matter what I tried I always get the same result. Good, hard cranking but no start. After each try I pull the plugs and clean them. Im hoping its something stupid Im forgetting at this point but I cant think of anything. Also the car was an original black box ECU car, but Im not sure that it matters.
__________________
 
Def not the battery. I have it on a charger and its full charged without issues. Also, I setup the base settings for DSMlink and took a log of the start up but I dont know how to post a log file on here.

iugrad92turbo, A compression test was done about 2 months ago and they were all near perfect. I guess I can check it again but do you think I lost compression by just swapping the turbo and injectors?

Just to double check... I pulled the fuel return line and got lots of fuel when I cranked it. I then pulled all of the plug wires and watched the coil pack arc within itself and also tested each one individually and watched them arc. The last compression test was done about two months ago was near perfect(~140psi) in all four cylinders.
 
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even if the cat fell off driving down the road that wouldn't cause the vehicle to jump to 8,000 RPM's. that 420 engine should never turn that high without being internally modded. if you have no spark then you may not be getting a cam signal. check to see if the timing belt broke because and 8,000 RPM free rev will cause a TB failure.
 
even if the cat fell off driving down the road that wouldn't cause the vehicle to jump to 8,000 RPM's. that 420 engine should never turn that high without being internally modded. if you have no spark then you may not be getting a cam signal. check to see if the timing belt broke because and 8,000 RPM free rev will cause a TB failure.

Spyder GS is a 4G64 not 420a
 
check timing belt. ive had this happen once on a 92 N/A eclipse. the timing belt broke. check your CAS. it may have taken a dump on that 8k rev
 
Well, I checked the injectors, had received 4 rebuilt ones from Ebay, found out they were high inpedence injectors, mine are low inpedence ones and original 450cc turbo injectors, so pulled the rail, built an injector cleaner as seen on YouTube using a pulse switch, and AA battery and large syringe to run brake clean, all injectors sprayed good, replaced the injectors, checked the cam sensor and was 180 out. Reset sensor, cranked and zoom, ran like the old champion it was. I can't wait to take it out on the road, a few more interior parts to button up, then I am off. Thanks to every person who posts in the forums, it is an invaluable asset to all DSM owners.:D
 
Hi im having the same kinda problem with my 98 eclipse rs im having spark issues maybe someone can also help me out? i recently just rebuilt the head on my can and it ran fine for the first day no problems turning on the car or anything the next day i drove it to work and my car was sputtering and had no idea why it was sputtering and the when i got to work i turned it off well i tried turning it on and it would turn on for maybe a min and then sputter off and now it will not turn on at all so i had it towed back to my house and just dont know why it is not getting spark im clueless to why all of a sudden it has no spark? please help!!
 
when i go to start my car nothing happens but the isc starts clicking non stop, if i unplug it it stops but when i plug it back in it starts clicking again. i tested the coils and all were good and i have a fully charged battery. if someone could point me in the right direction thatd be great, thanks
 
Does the Check Engine light come on for about 5 second then go off when you key the car on? If not the ECU is the problem.

Either way it would be a good Idea to Pull the Ecu and take the cover of and post a good Hi res pic. Caps are more then likely leaking and have damaged the board and/or you blew some drivers... .
 
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heres the best i can get with my phone, yes all the lights come on and after 5 seconds the engine and seatbelt light go off

from what i can tell i dont see anything wrong with my ecu. i have power going to the starter and the grounds are intact. all my fuses are good as well, i dont really know where to look next.
 

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