Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[Talon96esi]

yeah i am getting spark in all 4

 

[gieri002]

Have you verified that the injectors are firing?

 

[Talon96esi]

how do i go about doing that? Because that is one thing i have never messed with before was the injectors

 

[fierosail]

also a pump will run but not pump( happened to mt gst) so check fuel presser spark and compression

 

[Talon96esi]

so to test my fuel pressure to see if it is actually pumping, should i just put a fpr on and see what happens?

 

[93AWDDSM]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

Check it out.

 

[Talon96esi]

Thanks for showing me that, hopefully the few things i havent tried yet will fix this issue

 

[Mischif]

Touch one of the injectors while someone else cranks the car. You should feel the injector click/pulse. If you dont feel anything than the injectors aren't pulsing.

 

[Talon96esi]

and if they arent pulsing/pushing, would replacing them fix the issue or would there be anything else i should do while im at it?

 

[93AWDDSM]

Quoted from that link I gave you

"Next, check to make sure your injectors are firing. Measure the resistance at the injector clips with your DVOM. Resistance should read 2-3 ohms at the injectors, and the clips should be receiving battery voltage while cranking. Take a long, rubber-topped screwdriver and place the metal end on top of each injector, and your ear on the other. Crank the car, and listen for a sharp metallic "clicking". You'll hear the clicking each time the injector fires. If your injector's aren't firing, try swapping out your Injector Resistor Pack with a known good unit. These don't usually go bad, but when they do, they'll keep the injectors from firing. The ECU may also be at fault here, or the wiring to the injectors may be damaged."

 

[Talon96esi]

sounds good, thanks for all your help guys

 

[mike orlando jr]

Dont forget when your cranking a motor over that long to unplug the injectors and crank it to clear the built up fuel. You said it your self the plugs smell like fuel.

 

[gofer]

I'm hearing mixed things though, Some say you need to leave the cas sensor on to test pulse some say take it off..?

Gofer, could you clarify please?

Just to clarify here, yes it needs plugged in but you need to read that 1g CAS testing link again since it says in there exactly how to test it.

Your CAS has four wires going to it, a 12v signal and ground the other two are signal wires for the TDC and CAM inputs to the ECU. To test them you'll have to pull the CAS off the head and turn it by hand, this will allow you to test the signals with a multimeter as you spin it. Both the CAM and TDC signal wires should read up to 5v as you spin the CAS, the CAM signal wire pulses 4 times per revolution and the TDC pulses 2 times.

Heres a pin out of the CAS connector going to the ECU so you can check continuity of the wires and know which wires to test for the CAM & TDC pulses.

ECU Pins to CAS connector Pins -

• CAM Signal wire (BRN/YEL): Pin 21 at the ECU to Pin 3 at the CAS (4 pulses per revolution)
• TDC signal wire (BLK/BLU): Pin 22 at the ECU to Pin 4 at the CAS (2 pulses per revolution)

When you pull the CAS off to test it you need to make sure you don't have it spun 180* out or else your motor won't start at all, heres what it SHOULD look like.

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[ZacTsi]

As I was driving on the highway the car started back firing then the tachometer went to 0rpm and I shut the car off. I thought it was a bad coil pack from the new coil on plug setup I installed. I had the car towed home and installed the factory plugs and wires. I chacked the spark plugs and piston tops and they looked fine. I tried starting it and wouldnt fire. Then I tested the power transmitor thing that is mounted just left of the factory coil pack location. It tested bad so I bought a brand new one, now the car will try to fire but just does strange back firing with each crank. Also the tach goes to 1,000 rpm when I turn the key to on and the factory boost gauge goes all the way up! This points toward the ecu I believe because that controls the "boost gauge". The ecu is a rebuilt socketed eprom with a few thousand miles and the factory chip installed. The car ran a little rough after I installed my c.o.p. setup previous to all this, and the day this happened I took off my 3in catback and was running open 3in downpipe and it was running ok until that night it was back firing sometimes then thats when I got on the highway and IT happened. If anyone has ANY ideas please let me know asap thanks!

 

[dsmgst1996]

have you opened the ecu and looked for damage. also check power going to your c.a.s

 

[ZacTsi]

Yeah I opened the ecu and it looks alright..Im looking for my other chip to tryout in it but I also put my old ecu in and its doing the same thing. I will try the crank angle sensor right now though.

 

[dsmgst1996]

also try to unplug the mas and or the map and see if it will start if those are the problem unhooking them will allow it to start put will run like crap.

 

[95GSTowner]

After much delay, we finally started working on the car again. Car is still not starting but it comes close to starting when fuel is 1st introduced. Basically what I've noticed is we can remove the wet plugs, dry them out, pull the MPI fuse, then turn it over for about 10 seconds to clear out the cylinder. Then put it all back together, hit the key and the car almost starts but then it just turns over and over. Pull the plugs and they're soaked with fuel. Repeat the process and keep getting same results. Also, if I squeeze the fuel line with vise grips for about 5-6 seconds while the motor is turning over and then release the vise grips it will almost start then as well. Below is a list of what has been tried/tested and still no start.

1. Checked timing at least 10 times, dead on
2. Compression test was really low the 1st test (Flooded Cylinders?), but re-tested and got around 130 across
3. Pulled fuel rail with injectors installed. All 4 sprayed, no dripping
4. Replaced spark plugs & wires. Seeing spark on all 4 plugs when cranking
5. Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor CTS
6. Replaced ECU with a known working unit
7. Drained all gas, added premium gas and replaced fuel filter.
8. Replaced FPR with a stock FPR

I think the next step is to test the coil packs with a multi-meter. I appreciate the help, any thoughts ?

 

[Crash429]

My buddy had a 2g that did the samething, it ended up bein the crank sensor, took us forever to figure out, if that dont do it, buy or borrow a scan tool/code reader and see if anything pops up, it deffenitly sounds like a sensor of some sort to me though

 

[95GSTowner]

Helping a friend with his 90 GST and after much delay, we finally started working on the car again. We have compression, spark, fuel and correct timing. We previously used the http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html guide. The only steps that haven't been done from the guide is putting a gauge on fuel pressure and checking ohms (Coil Packs & injectors). Car is still not starting but it comes close to starting when fuel is 1st introduced. Basically what I've noticed is we can remove the wet plugs, dry them out, pull the MPI fuse, then turn it over for about 10 seconds to clear out the cylinder. Then put it all back together, hit the key and the car almost starts but then it just turns over and over. Pull the plugs and they're soaked with fuel. Repeat the process and keep getting same results. Also, if I squeeze the fuel line with vise grips for about 5-6 seconds while the motor is turning over and then release the vise grips it will almost start then as well. Below is a list of what has been tried/tested and still no start.

1. Checked timing at least 10 times, dead on
2. Compression test was really low the 1st test (Flooded Cylinders?), but re-tested and got around 130 across
3. Pulled fuel rail with injectors installed. All 4 sprayed, no dripping
4. Brand new plugs & wires. Seeing BLUE spark on all 4 plugs when cranking
5. Brand new Coolant Temp Sensor
6. Replaced ECU with a known working unit - CEL on for 5 secs then off
7. Drained all gas, added premium gas and replaced fuel filter.
8. Replaced AFPR with a stock FPR
9. Pulled out CAS, turned by hand and saw each cylinder spark/injector pulse
10. Tried starting with MAF disconnected & connected


Another problem we discovered is occasionally while trying to start the car we can turn the key to off and remove it but the starter keeps turning the motor. I'm guessing this could be an ignition problem, starter or relay. I think the next step is to test the coil packs with a multi-meter and maybe boost leak test. I appreciate the help, any thoughts ?

 

[gsxnate99]

Make sure the coolant temp sensor is hooked up and you are getting a reading. If its not the car will be a pain to start because the ecu can't tell what to do with a cold start. May not be the issue but I just had the same problem with my junk!

 

[95GSTowner]

Make sure the coolant temp sensor is hooked up and you are getting a reading. If its not the car will be a pain to start because the ecu can't tell what to do with a cold start. May not be the issue but I just had the same problem with my junk!

The old CTS wiring was bad/shorted out so I went to the junk yard and cut the whole harness off another car. We wired it up and soldered connections. This made no difference on the no-start issue. Haven't checked voltage though. Will do soon

 

[gnxpro]

I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT with the 3.0L V6 5 speed and just finished changing the plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets and upper intake gasket, I also put in a new battery. Paid attention while taking it apart and back together so I thought but now it won't start. The engine turns over fine, has fuel but not sure if it has spark yet. The OBD2 code says EGR transducer open or shorted. All connectors are connected as far as I can tell. Am I missing something with this EGR thing? Any help or pointers would be appreciated.

 

[plamb09]

check all your plugs and check the firing order also pull a plug an hold it against the valve cover or bolt an see if it arces

 

[gnxpro]

The firing order is all correct and everything is plugged in. Also, it does have spark. Pulled the fuel pump and tested it and it all worked so I'm stuck.