Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[SpawnedX]

Have you considered having the starter checked?

 

[FluidKaos]

Could be any number of things. Is there a CEL? If so, what codes is it throwing? Did it run at all before you swapped cam angle sensors? Many more questions need answering before an internet diagnosis. Even then, still won't be able to get anything more than ideas as to what could be wrong.

 

[92AWDHX40]

In order for yor car to start you need spark, ecu, coil pack, power transistor good place to start, fuel, compression.

 

[NYCRedlineTalon]

what's some signs of bad compression? i know about the test but is there a simpler was to determine bad compression?

 

[pickaso]

I will have to have the starter checked - have not done that.
Yes the car ran before I swapped out any thing really. It stopped working so good in 2007 before I moved to CA. The DAy i left WA to CA the car ran and I got it onto the trailer. The day I go to CA it ran and I got it off the trailer. After sitting a bit in CA it only started every once in a while. Thought it was a bad ECU and went to change it. But I bought a battery at the same time. Put the battery in and the car started and I drove it from one location to the next. After that. The car started just RANDOMLY working and not working. Every blue moon it would turn over. When I would turn the key on some thing would tik in the engine bay. After I started it and it died some thing would tik again. Never was able to locate the tik. the car has not literaly ran sense about August 2009. Almost all these parts have been replaced sense then.

Now with all the parts changed it still does not work.

Trying not to sound to dumb but what is the CEL? All this Electronics crap confuses me.

___________________

Never mind on the CEL figured it out... o-0

 

[300hpbound]

If your hearing a "tick" when you turn the key over it probably is the starter contacts. Willing to bet they are worn or the starter has decided to give up. I would suggest bashing it with a hammer to see if it starts but our starters aren't exactly the easiest to get to

 

[EagleTalonTim]

The CEL is your Check Engine Light. When you turn your key on without starting the vehicle, the CEL light should come on for a second or two and then go off. It it does not come on at all, it is more than likely the bulb is burned out or your ECU is fried.

Another few things I would check is your Ignition Module. This will be located directly below your coil pack. It has a long plug with one row of wires. Your local autozone can test that part to see if it is bad.

I may have missed it somewhere, but have you checked for Fuel pressure?

You may also want to get your alternator checked.... I recently ran into a problem where my alternator was shorting out my battery and causing all kinds of problems and clicking.

 

[90turboturd]

Have you done any voltage tests? to the CAS or power transistor?you might have a worn wire only making contact when it feels like it.If your ecu is "fried" it might only be a capacitor,should also have a fish smell emitting from the ecu.

 

[pickaso]

OK so hypathetically speaking... Could I replace the CAS and the Power Transister and THEN the vehicle would either WORK or not work based of the fact that it could be or not be the problem? or would it be easier to just keep diagnosing the issue thru certain steps?

Also the engine turns over SLOW when I do try to start it what is with that?

 

[Karnag3_0kc]

Some advice, always find out what's wrong before you go replacing thing. Unless you have a bottomless wallet, check fuses and maybe alternator crapped. Does the car have power?

 

[pickaso]

Checked all fuses I could think of and the car has power. When I start the car the CEL stays on before I crank then goes away WHEN I crank but comes on again after. And as far as I can tell im gettting no spark at the plug wires.

 

[Karnag3_0kc]

Coil pack maybe shot.... Or test the alternator.

 

[thomcasey]

OK so hypathetically speaking... Could I replace the CAS and the Power Transister and THEN the vehicle would either WORK or not work based of the fact that it could be or not be the problem? or would it be easier to just keep diagnosing the issue thru certain steps?

Also the engine turns over SLOW when I do try to start it what is with that?

Car turns over slow, battery. After sitting for a while, it will need to be charged. AutoZone will charge it for free. It could be bad also. A bad starter will smoke a battery pretty easy.

 

[pickaso]

Coil packs brand spanking new along with the battery? Going to have the ALT checked and see if thats wrong. - whats the CAS? I've been trying to GOOGLE it and cant find any info accept car adds....?!?

 

[1995gsx20g]

if the car hasn't ran since aug of 09 the battery is DEAD. i wouldn't even be worrying about the alternator if the car cranks slow you gotta start with the basics.

cas = Cam Angle Sensor

that clicking could be the ecu shutting off. it should click 7 seconds after you remove the key from the ON position.

that clicking could also be the starter relay since the battery is dead and most likely bad if it stays dead for extended periods of time.

 

[pickaso]

if the car hasn't ran since aug of 09 the battery is DEAD. i wouldn't even be worrying about the alternator if the car cranks slow you gotta start with the basics.

cas = Cam Angle Sensor

that clicking could be the ecu shutting off. it should click 7 seconds after you remove the key from the ON position.

that clicking could also be the starter relay since the battery is dead and most likely bad if it stays dead for extended periods of time.

Well the battery its self is literaly brand new. I purchased the battery in May or June this year. So the battery is only like 3-4 months old?
The coil pack, the fuel filter, the engine fuses, the spark plus, the plug wires, and the Cam Angle Sensor are all BRAND new.

What should I do now?

 

[Karnag3_0kc]

Well the battery its self is literaly brand new. I purchased the battery in May or June this year. So the battery is only like 3-4 months old?
The coil pack, the fuel filter, the engine fuses, the spark plus, the plug wires, and the Cam Angle Sensor are all BRAND new.

What should I do now?

If the starter is toast everything else will be soon to follow. The battery is a good place to start though. Thinking about it the battery is really only used to start the car. The rest is on the alternator.

 

[dsm-onster]

Have you checked your mpi fuse?

 

[1995gsx20g]

Well the battery its self is literaly brand new. I purchased the battery in May or June this year. So the battery is only like 3-4 months old?
The coil pack, the fuel filter, the engine fuses, the spark plus, the plug wires, and the Cam Angle Sensor are all BRAND new.

What should I do now?

Start with a visual check of all of the related wiring to the sensors/parts you listed above

i would clean the battery terminals and put dielectric grease or a protector spray on the terminals.

Since i still feel there may be an issue with battery voltage i would check the voltage while cranking the motor.

it must not drop below 9.5v or the ecu does not work.

But i always keep the basics in mind, fuel;spark;compression.

 

[pickaso]

Have you checked your mpi fuse?

Where is this MPI fuse? I checked a lot of items so I will then be able to determine if this was one.

 

[Hortanica]

Ok, since i cant post in any other forums yet, hopefully someone in here can give me a hand.

Background on the car: 98 Spyder GSX - Engine + ECU from a 96 (inverted CAS)


After weighing my options, i decided to go the evo ecu route. The car was running perfect (well, as expected) before i did anything.

So, yesterday, i did all the wiring and swapped in the evo ecu. I switched the coils around, and the injectors (switched inj 1+2 and 3+4) and when i try and start it, it turns over, catches for a few sec's and then dies. Once in a while it will run for 10 seconds but thats about it. Also, during that time the gas pedal doesnt really do anything it to influence the car, it actually stalls it out.

I can hear the fuel pump relay click off, and i can hear the pump stop.

Well, after giving up for the night, and breaking the tactrix 2.0 cable (the usb plug ripped off the pcb...) i decided to just see what would happen if i put the stock 96 ecu back in. So i switched the injectors and coils back, and switched the fuel pump wire from pin 22 to pin 8, turn it on and the car runs and drives fine. i didnt do to much with it but i did warm it up to operating temperature.

I then figured maybe a pin wasnt seated all the way, so i switched the fuel pump pin from 8 back to 22, switched the coils + injectors back and im getting the same problem, it would run for a little bit and die. i cant give it gas to keep it going because if i do the car dies that much quicker.



Now, im pretty sure its just a map issue, but again since i cant flash right now until i can get a new cable im stuck so i thought id ask...

Can someone pm me or give me an EVO8 map that is known to run and start on a dsm with stock injectors and maf?

im not gonna lie - i think a lot of my issues was i grabbed the tephra + other mod rom file first and edited that, and im pretty sure i just dont have something set right...but any help would be appreciated!

 

[knochgoon24]

I think I might have one from when i swapped my 450cc injectors back in.
I could probably send you one. Send me a PM with your e-mail. I'll try to find it.

Have your read through:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/347103-evo-8-ecu-2g-your-visual-guide.html
and
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/321515-evo-8-ecu-2g-works.html

 

[Hortanica]

If you have one that would be awesome! i just grabbed a fresh, no mod map now that im going through just so i can see if that was the issue. but ill send you a pm now.

As for those threads, i used the visual guide for most of the install, and in the last few days ive read through the first 35 pages of the other one. Thats where i pulled the values for the maf/injectors from to just try and get the car running to go from there.

 

[knochgoon24]

I sent you a rom from when I used my 450cc injectors and 2g MAF for a bit.

 

[pickaso]

So what happens if you dont get a code AT ALL when I try to test the car? No action at all from the test? No blinking light or code blink at all.

When I turn the key to "ON" I see the battery light; the oil light; and the radiator light.... Thewse are the normal lights but at NO TIME do I get the Engine light...

Car turns over still - still wont start .... ANNOYING as hell right now...