2G Spherical bearings 2g

[greengoblin]

Amazing !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks.

Absolutely AWESOME work!

Thank you again for the information, as it will make my life substantially easier when I do this in the upcoming weeks!

Tim,

Glad I could help you out. Another thing that should be noted is I'm not sure if I'm going to heat treat the bolts I have welded on. Welding on them does weaken them. All I can say at the moment is that the OEM tubing I cut thought was soft. The saw went through it like butter. The bolts even after welding where a different story. Very hard.

Also the all thread grade 8 bolts where a bit hard to source. That may be because I'm in Idaho. I had my brother order them from Mainland Bolt and Supply Company in Texas City. I think he talked to Neal Tinsley 800-301-2658 or 409-948-2324. My understanding is they still have some in stock from my order.

Kevin

 

[snowborder714]

Sweet - more bushings to input!

I'll hopefully be able to get you what I have done so far soonish Kevin so you can approve it and then I can post it for everyone. Being on the road so much isn't helping.

 

[greengoblin]

You see how long it took me to post up stuff. I fully understand.

 

[snowborder714]

PLEASE NOTE THAT YOU WILL NEED Part Number PCYMR10-12T, Male Rod Ends in place of the Part Number PCYMR12T that is list on the plans

Just noticed this. Does it apply to both MR and ML, or just the MR part?

 

[greengoblin]

Just noticed this. Does it apply to both MR and ML, or just the MR part?

Only for the two PCYMR12T

You still need the larger left hand thread units for the inboard pickups.

Kevin

 

[99gst_racer]

Excellent thread, Kevin. Thanks for sharing.

I have a quick question regarding the toe arms. If I read correctly, you had to ream the spindle to a 7* taper, right? Do you know what the factory taper is?

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[greengoblin]

Excellent thread, Kevin. Thanks for sharing.

I have a quick question regarding the toe arms. If I read correctly, you had to ream the spindle to a 7* taper, right? Do you know what the factory taper is?

From what I could tell 7* was the taper. Only had to ream the hole because the tie rod end was bit larger.

Kevin

 

[black cotton]

To reduce even more un-sprung weight, have you ever thought about making some billet knuckles...

And if so, what do you think, machine the bushing inserts as OE to install a urethane replacement, or CNC the billet to replicate a bushing basically interpreting a solid bushing.

 

[snowborder714]

There is already billet wheel hubs.
Magnus Motorsports Magnus Billet Wheel Hub

 

[black cotton]

Not exactly what I was/would refer to. They are in form what I asked/refered to, but If you read about it, their is 0 direct bolt on ability, you must make your own custom control arms and such to accept these knuckles. I would be interested in the price however. I have my own CNC Miller and lathe, and my father writes programs, I was considering this as a self motivated project, but only in an exact replica of the stock hub, press in some urethane bushings, and bolt in.

But seeing that a company has already tried these out I guess I am more comfortable knowing they went with billet steel for the front knuckles, that was mine and the other engineers only concern was that 6061 wouldnt hold up to the strain in the front.

 

[snowborder714]

I do understand it wasn't exactly what you were looking for, but I figured it may help in some way, shape, or form.

Must be nice to have access to those CNC machines! Are they purchased or homemade/modded?

 

[black cotton]

Purchased, my father used to run a tooling company that made all the screw drivers for sears, armstrong, kd, klein, home depot, lowes, ect. If you reference your craftsman screw driver you may see a PR after the part number, thats the abbreviations for his old company. And what he doesnt have, he has people that have what i need to make the things I want.

 

[greengoblin]

To reduce even more un-sprung weight, have you ever thought about making some billet knuckles...

And if so, what do you think, machine the bushing inserts as OE to install a urethane replacement, or CNC the billet to replicate a bushing basically interpreting a solid bushing.

If you are going to make one I would have it made so poly bushing could be put in but have a spherical bearing option. Like the Magnus unit the steering arm would need to be steel.

While your at it they should be made so they correct our suspension geometry on lowered cars. I think they would just need to be shorted,

You can sign me up for a set with the spherical bearing option. I'd bet you could get a few other who would be interested if you are serious about making these for a reasonable price. I didn't say cheap. Just not to the moon mission cost.

It's really neat you have access to cool tools.


Kevin

 

[black cotton]

Well this was my plan.... take a stock knuckle, replicate it in cadd to exactly how the knuckle sits with all bushings out, and then mill it out of billet.

If you are suggesting "shortening" the knuckle, I am not sure if the shortening should occur in the body or in the arm to which the upper control arm bolts to. My only concern with shortening this arm would be the clearance with wider tires, i run 245s and upon tire diflection they def rub the knuckle, i can see this due to the loss of powder coating on my current knuckles.

Some insight on this without causing interferance with current orientations would be great!

Also upon ## reference to making them with spherical bearings, I would pressume the current listed p/ns you have for the stock knuckles would work just fine with the knuckles I would generate being I would machine the bearing cages to the same spec as the factory casting. If I am misunderstood please fill me in.

Lastly as for producing a few sets, I can have better clarification of cost, once i figure out cost of material, and well design time/worth. I dont see them being over whelming however.

 

[pagosa dsm]

Purchased, my father used to run a tooling company that made all the screw drivers for sears, armstrong, kd, klein, home depot, lowes, ect. If you reference your craftsman screw driver you may see a PR after the part number, thats the abbreviations for his old company. And what he doesnt have, he has people that have what i need to make the things I want.

I am in the moble tool business. What is the name of your father's tool company?
Rick

 

[black cotton]

used - and was, they shut down but 6 months ago, problems with money collection for companies you wouldnt assume wouldnt pay....

Pratt-Read

 

[eclipsh]

I'd be very cautious about selling any copies unless you are/have an engineer who can check the designs/fabrication and stamp them as being safe.

That said, for reducing weight and complexity the 2g could always use the dual lower arms and a McStrut upper. I'd want to double check the suspension dynamics but it could be interesting. As Pagosa DSM has pointed out to me many times, BMW uses that combo in their cars and they are known for their handling/performance.

 

[greengoblin]

Well this was my plan.... take a stock knuckle, replicate it in cadd to exactly how the knuckle sits with all bushings out, and then mill it out of billet.

If you are suggesting "shortening" the knuckle, I am not sure if the shortening should occur in the body or in the arm to which the upper control arm bolts to. My only concern with shortening this arm would be the clearance with wider tires, i run 245s and upon tire deflection they def rub the knuckle, i can see this due to the loss of powder coating on my current knuckles.

Some insight on this without causing interference with current orientations would be great!

Also upon ## reference to making them with spherical bearings, I would presume the current listed p/ns you have for the stock knuckles would work just fine with the knuckles I would generate being I would machine the bearing cages to the same spec as the factory casting. If I am misunderstood please fill me in.

Lastly as for producing a few sets, I can have better clarification of cost, once i figure out cost of material, and well design time/worth. I don't see them being over whelming however.

You should talk to gixxerdrew (Andrew Brilliant) if your very serious about making these. I know at one point he really looked at having some made.

As for the bearing cages it would need to size the holes for the fit in aluminum. The bearing manufactures can give you the specs for that. Also you "may" need to bulk up the area where the bearings go to handle the loads they see. I pretty sure I didn't post up the bearings I used for the knuckles. The factory knuckles had to be opened up a little bit to accept the bearings I used.
I can get you that info if you need.

A set of light weight lower control arms with replaceable ball joints would be really trick too! While I'm dreaming .

 

[black cotton]

Every hand that would take part in this project has either a mechanical or manufacturing engineering degree, not to mention I have a load/stress analyzer via my mechanical cadd program that defaults areas that may not tolerate loads that i would incorperate into the bias'..

Outside of that, greengoblin; my father and I had already discussed making the bearing bosses meatier to help support the loads and handle he pressure while being pressed on.

In the mean time I will shoot said member a PM/

 

[greengoblin]

Every hand that would take part in this project has either a mechanical or manufacturing engineering degree, not to mention I have a load/stress analyzer via my mechanical cadd program that defaults areas that may not tolerate loads that i would incorperate into the bias'..

Outside of that, greengoblin; my father and I had already discussed making the bearing bosses meatier to help support the loads and handle he pressure while being pressed on.

In the mean time I will shoot said member a PM/

Sounds like you have a good plan and the people you need behind you to make it work. Keep me posted on how it goes and if I can help in anyway let me know.

I'll shoot Drew an email too.

Kevin

 

[ACM]

You should talk to gixxerdrew (Andrew Brilliant)

...

A set of light weight lower control arms with replaceable ball joints would be really trick too! While I'm dreaming .

Too right - adjustable length at the inboard pickup, screw on/in ball joints, and bushing sizes per stock so I can use them in ESP - now we're talking !

The curved arm needs to be adjustable at both ends, the inboard end to set the caster and the outboard end to retain the correct upright/knuckle orientation. Yes please...

 

[tenn-gsx]

Here a up close look at my front lower lateral arms loaded up with the spherical bearings and standoffs. I used a wide series number 14 bearing in the arms. The standoffs are made out of 4140 steel.

You can find it here:WPB-TG Spherical Bearing Series on QA1 Precision Products, Inc.

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Here you can see the groove I had cut for the retaining clips

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Have these been ran yet? I jumped the gun and got a set but I dont know If I should use them on my car. It will be a semi daily and I do not want to destroy it using these. If anytone has used them please post results and any damage they caused to the chassis. If your mounting points were reinforced please post oics of how u did it.

 

[greengoblin]

Too right - adjustable length at the inboard pickup, screw on/in ball joints, and bushing sizes per stock so I can use them in ESP - now we're talking !

The curved arm needs to be adjustable at both ends, the inboard end to set the caster and the outboard end to retain the correct upright/knuckle orientation. Yes please...

Now I'm drooling! Yes please, please!

Here is what I did. I "felt" the other side was sufficient. I have not run them.

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[Scott McIntyre]

Have these been ran yet? I jumped the gun and got a set but I dont know If I should use them on my car. It will be a semi daily and I do not want to destroy it using these. If anytone has used them please post results and any damage they caused to the chassis. If your mounting points were reinforced please post oics of how u did it.

I ran a set all last summer on my daily driver / autox / track car. I have not reinforced the mounting points at all. No issues.

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Although now that I finally own a welder, I plan to reinforce the the subframe as a precautionary measure.

 

[greengoblin]

Thanks for the feed back Scott. I've ben wonder how they worked on your car.

Kevin