Spherical bearings 2g

[greengoblin]

7075 t6 for the center pin and sleeve.

 

[eclipsh]

Nice Kevin!

Now i need to make the polyurethane version for all of us regular DSMers

This joint needs to move freely in multiple dimensions. Poly bushings won't let it move the way it needs to. It has to be either the stock rubber or a spherical bearing like greengoblin used.

Nice work on the bearing. I was picturing something very similar for my own setup before I realized it isn't a track car and rubber bushings keep the family happier

 

[greengoblin]

This joint needs to move freely in multiple dimensions. Poly bushings won't let it move the way it needs to. It has to be either the stock rubber or a spherical bearing like greengoblin used.

Nice work on the bearing. I was picturing something very similar for my own setup before I realized it isn't a track car and rubber bushings keep the family happier

I think you could make this out of poly. It would however have to be the right hardness for sure.

 

[black_gst]

I think you could make this out of poly. It would however have to be the right hardness for sure.

I was thinking in the 50A-65A range, should allow for enough movement and still be better then stock and last forever

 

[jtmcinder]

I was under the impression that the compression arm would swing down in the middle if a spherical bearing were put on the inboard end. Was I wrong? It wouldn't be a first time.

- Jtoby

 

[housegsx]

I was under the impression that the compression arm would swing down in the middle if a spherical bearing were put on the inboard end.
- Jtoby

I was wondering about this as well.

Also, wouldn't having spherical bearings on both the inside mounting points of both the lateral and compression arm allow the knuckle to swing around "too freely"? Which would change caster and toe under braking or accelleration.

I might be completely wrong as well.

 

[jtmcinder]

My model doesn't show any free movement of the spindle from spherical bearings. It's a messed up lower "A-arm" (in that it involves two separate arms and two ball joints, etc), but it still acts like an A-arm that merely deforms at the vertex in a predictable way as the wheels are steered. But the compression arms flops downward in the model, stopped only by the limit in the rotation of the ball-joint on the outer end or by hitting the ground. But, as DG will soon tell us, I'll wager, my model stinks.

- Jtoby

 

[greengoblin]

I was wondering about this as well.

Also, wouldn't having spherical bearings on both the inside mounting points of both the lateral and compression arm allow the knuckle to swing around "too freely"? Which would change caster and toe under braking or acceleration.

I might be completely wrong as well.

I don't think this will be a problem but like you said. I might be completely wrong as well.
I have found in the past when joints make triangles they only usually move the way they where intended to and are very hard to distort. So my logic says it will move as much as the OEM arm did only freely and linear. Well you will lose the forward to back movement in this case.

My model doesn't show any free movement of the spindle from spherical bearings. It's a messed up lower "A-arm" (in that it involves two separate arms and two ball joints, etc), but it still acts like an A-arm that merely deforms at the vertex in a predictable way as the wheels are steered. But the compression arms flops downward in the model, stopped only by the limit in the rotation of the ball-joint on the outer end or by hitting the ground. But, as DG will soon tell us, I'll wager, my model stinks.

- Jtoby

Like I told you in the pm. This may indeed be a problem (floppy arm). I'll know pretty soon when I do a full mock up. I'll keep every one posted . This whole project of mine is intended to be a does it work test bed. I hope it does.


Kevin

 

[tenn-gsx]

You could resolve the sagging in the middle with some sort of removable bushing that slides into the grove between the race and the mounting bar.

 

[eclipsh]

I was under the impression that the compression arm would swing down in the middle if a spherical bearing were put on the inboard end. Was I wrong? It wouldn't be a first time.

- Jtoby

Two words: bungee cord.

I think the small bushing insert to restrict roll in that direction sounds like a good idea if it is indeed a problem. I guess we'll all wait and see.

 

[jtmcinder]

Laugh all you wish at the bungee-cord solution, but something like that - a door-spring - was what occurred to me first.

 

[greengoblin]

Two words: bungee cord.

I think the small bushing insert to restrict roll in that direction sounds like a good idea if it is indeed a problem. I guess we'll all wait and see.

Laugh all you wish at the bungee-cord solution, but something like that - a door-spring - was what occurred to me first.

I'm right with you guys. It was the first thing that popped in my head to and I think would be very effective if it's needed. We will see soon.

Kevin

 

[snowborder714]

They are still on my sketch pad I will have to make a presentable drawing and then scan it. Should get it done today or tomorrow.

Today or tomorrow has passed...by a while

 

[jtmcinder]

Today or tomorrow has passed...by a while

+1

My family just got another new pet: a rabbit with floppy ears. This reminded me of the compression-arm issue. Update?

 

[greengoblin]

+1

My family just got another new pet: a rabbit with floppy ears. This reminded me of the compression-arm issue. Update?

The short is yes it will flop down . The solution I plan on using a ploy insert to keep the droop in check but allow good movement.

I'll post more when I make the said poly unit. Right now I'm recovering from the shootout and more focused on installing the aero package I have.

 

[snowborder714]

In your SPC sleeve drawing, is the material 1 3/8 x .120 DOM tube? I can't tell what the second dimension reads.

What material were the crossmember bushings and washers made from?

 

[greengoblin]

In your SPC sleeve drawing, is the material 1 3/8 x .120 DOM tube? I can't tell what the second dimension reads.

What material were the crossmember bushings and washers made from?

1 3/8 x .120 DOM tube

Crossmember bushings and washers 6061 t6

Kevin

 

[arrowhead]

That is a wonderful build, go solid wherever you can you are also benefiting from infinite adjustems to your suspension, keep the good work work.

 

[snowborder714]

These are the drawings I'm missing Kevin, if you happen to have them lying around or could possibly make new ones.
-rear knuckle spacers
-rear UCA cones
-compression arm sleeve
-compression arm dog bone

I think that's it, unless you know of some drawings you haven't posted in here.

 

[greengoblin]

These are the drawings I'm missing Kevin, if you happen to have them lying around or could possibly make new ones.
-rear knuckle spacers
-rear UCA cones
-compression arm sleeve
-compression arm dog bone

I think that's it, unless you know of some drawings you haven't posted in here.

-rear knuckle spacers
-rear UCA cones

These will take a while before I can draw them out. They are installed on my car and there where made as we went so I did not draw out specs.

-compression arm sleeve
-compression arm dog bone

These I don't plan on giving out. I'm still not sure how well they will work. If you want info privately you can hit me up Brain but there are things we would need to discuss.

Also, I'll look over the drawing you sent me tonite. That way I will have I can give them the look over they deserve. I'll also answer your questions about the fender braces. I need to think that over a bit.

Thanks,

Kevin

 

[jtmcinder]

Until someone comes up with a good solution to the floppy-arm issue, do you really want sphericals on the compression arm?

Separately, more gains might be made coming up with a way to install long-stalk ball-joints (such as those in the WhiteLine RCK for Evos) on the front lower lateral arms and the compression arms, to get the roll center up and to get the anti-dive function of the compression arm back.

 

[greengoblin]

Man, it makes me sick what other cars have right off the shelf.

This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread. - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

If I do anything else to my suspension I'll build my own arms up front.

 

[jtmcinder]

I'd say, build new knuckles, first. You need to lower the lateral arm's (and compression arm's) pick up on the knuckle to get the roll center and anti-drive. Long-stalk ball-joints are band-aids.

 

[T is for TURBO]

I'm in the position to replace some of my rear suspension components, and I was contemplating fabricating my own. So after some research I came across this thread. I know it's a little old, but I didn't want to start another on the same topic, especially since I got most of my ideas from this thread in the first place.

I really like the ideas used here, however, if I follow through with fabricating my own rear components, I would like to retain the rear stabilizer bar, which means I need a place to mount the end links. So I'd like to shoot this idea at you guys to see what you think.

The model is not entirely to scale. The clevis, outboard swivel joint in the knuckle, and the end links/end link locations were created using some dimensional guess work. I did not have the lower control arm in front of me when I drew this up. So this is purely preliminary. Hence the giant end links

The clevis would be probably be fabricated from A36 mild steel (since scrap plate is plentiful where I work) and it would be welded both sides. It is currently modeled at 10 GA.

My main question is; How important is the location of the end link? Since with the swedge tube design, it's nearly impossible to locate it at the factory position.

 

[greengoblin]

There is very very likely not enough room between the axle and the lateral arm for your design. That is why the OEM unit hoses the link in the middle of the arm.

If you are going to weld on to the tube I would nix the swedge tube and build my own. Just get a weld on thread tube end for the inboard pick up. Something like this:

Allstar Tube Ends - JEGS

Use a rod end for the inboard pick.

If you are using a tube you will have to offset the the endlink like the 3g arms.

On the out board pickup I would just weld the clevis for the knuckle to the tube in a fixed position. That way the torque of the sway bar will not be able to rotate the tube.

Or you could just chop off the inborad end of the OEM arm and build a threaded atttachment for a rod end on to it.