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2G Spherical bearings 2g

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Every hand that would take part in this project has either a mechanical or manufacturing engineering degree, not to mention I have a load/stress analyzer via my mechanical cadd program that defaults areas that may not tolerate loads that i would incorperate into the bias'..

Outside of that, greengoblin; my father and I had already discussed making the bearing bosses meatier to help support the loads and handle he pressure while being pressed on.

In the mean time I will shoot said member a PM/

Awesome. I'll enjoy watching the progress. Please post up if/when something happens with this.
 
Cool project. Many are not aware of the "springs in series" effects of suspension compliance.

Generally, two items are the largest contributor to camber compliance for a long spindle SLA (even when rubber bushings are installed).

1. wheel bearing (yes, wheel bearing)
2. knuckle (escpecially our long spindle ones)

Bushings in our suspensions (long spindle sla) tend to be a minor part of the "series of springs" in our compliance budget (except fore-aft, The compliant LCA bushing plays a major role). Additionally the double ball joint front LCA lowers the fore-aft compliance.
 
Thanks Scott that makes me feel much more comfortable about using them. How have they performed? Any noticable feel in performance? Extra vibration/noise?
Honestly, I don't even notice they're there.

I got them primarily because my inboard ploy bushings were failing (see image below) and secondly due to DG's preachings. The theory behind why they're needed is sound, I just don't have any data to support performance gains.

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Stretched bushing
 

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Ok, so I don't know if I am the first one to finish this and have the car on the ground. But the rear toe link doesn't work with the stock swaybar/ mounts. When you put the car weight on wheels the swaybar contacts the toe link. Also the bushings need a revision to a three piece design to make them reasonably easy to install. I have a new design on a note pad along with revised clearances. So with longer swaybar links this might all work out. Stay tuned. Got a dyno day next weekend which will eat up time so I will likely just pull the bar off till I get the linkage sorted out.
 
Ok, so I don't know if I am the first one to finish this and have the car on the ground. But the rear toe link doesn't work with the stock swaybar/ mounts. When you put the car weight on wheels the swaybar contacts the toe link. Also the bushings need a revision to a three piece design to make them reasonably easy to install. I have a new design on a note pad along with revised clearances. So with longer swaybar links this might all work out. Stay tuned. Got a dyno day next weekend which will eat up time so I will likely just pull the bar off till I get the linkage sorted out.

Interesting. I do agree that a three part design would make it easier to install. however mine where no hard to install that the factory arms. Granted they are a huge pain in the ass.


I surprised the the arms are hitting the say bar. I ran mine through full bump and drop and never had a problem. Granted I didn't 't have the car on the ground. Post up some photo's and I look forward to seeing how things go.

Thanks for the feedback.

Kevin
 
no photos, I will see what I can do when I get back to work on the car. I found some al hex stock from joes. I really am not a fan of the steel swaged tubing. Anyhow. I will likely just make longer swaybar connecting links but in the time being I will just remove the rear bar and align the car as is. I have corner weight scales and roll off's that should be here wednesday :). From my background I just have a habit of double checking things and I was sad to see that happen... There have been other issues with how the person that had the car before me put the damn thing togather so maybe they just put some shit on backwards and it sorts itself out (like my drivers door pop LOL)

If you came up with swaybar link parts shoot me the part numbers and source. The inboard rodends don't need to be high misalignment and will last longer with standard rodends. These should be inspected frequently for signs of failure.

oh, for the bushing revision.. I made another bushing 0.540 wide that was subtracted from the large side inboard bushing. Goes together much better. Also I have revised dimensions for your bushings that would work better (less slop)/ better fit/ easier assembly.
 
I know, I am lagging on the drawings. I will get the pictures uploaded. I revised the purchase list also. I used joes hex made of aluminum for the toe links. Gives a way to tighten them properly imo. List to follow.
 
Does your sway bar arm go under or over the toe arm on your car. I was reading your post and you mentioned that longer links would fix the problem. That leads me to think it's going over the toe arm.

Kevin

Whatever way it was was wrong. The previous owner had done some magic on the car LOL.. The rear end is much more planted now ;). I think it's in the low position now. I still need to make some adjustable links but those are on the back burner now. Sorry for the drawing/ photo delay. I am working on a regression that doesn't quite fit the data so I am spending way more time with this than I wanted to. HA HA figured out the first one... I(d)=0 x⁵ - 0 x⁴ - 0 x³ - 0.00025 x² + 0.04155 x - 1.50187 Only like 50 more to go. Statistics is ####!
 
Here is my new rear sway bar set up. The bar and ends all ride on needle bearings. Still need to build the endlinks but the hard part is done.


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Nice fab work. It must have taken a lot of measuring to get everything lined up without any binding. Did you machine the bar ends or purchase them?

EDIT: Are those splined? They don't look like it. I'm just curious if they'll slip. Are they keyed for aligning both sides or free to rotate to any angle you want independent of each side?
 
Looks excellent Kevin!

I'm curious though, why a torsion bar instead of a traditional sway bar?


It gives me a WIDE range of bar rates that are easy to get instead of being stuck with the two are three off the self bars that are made for our cars. It is also very easy to change the bar. This makes tuning with the sway bars much easier. Another point is it give me very rigid mount so I can run a very big bar if I want with out fear of tearing the crossmember mounts out. Others have had that happen. Once I get the car closer to being done I hope to do the front bar too. I need to mock up way more stuff to do that though.


Kevin
 
Hey kevin, can you get smaller diameter bars? (I am personally a fan of running smaller rear bars and higher rear spring rates.
 
Hey kevin, can you get smaller diameter bars? (I am personally a fan of running smaller rear bars and higher rear spring rates.

Yes you can have bars turned down to what every you like and I "think" even some of the ones they stock have a lower spring rate. You can check out Untitled Document. That is the brand bar I used. 43 inches long 7/8 splined. My holes in mt arms are are 8, 7 and 6 inches.
 
Yes you do! :D

Well ill see if Kevin will share his specs for these with me, it would def save me a lot of time and get things moving along. the biggest problem will be having cores because these would have to be pressed in by someone who know whats they are doing, you cant just hammer them in.
 
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