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2G rod knock? pics! your opinion

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95gsxxx

Proven Member
35
2
Oct 1, 2013
philadelphia, Pennsylvania
i have knock sound after i installed my head due to bent valves, started it up now i have a knock , dropped pan everything was clean , no metal anywhere , just eliminated my rear balance shaft with a stub ( just in case it was the shaft ) , and now im pulling the rod caps off to have a look, heres what i got. these are the rod caps, haven't pulled the rod bearings yet. let me know what you think, thanks
 

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How many miles on those bearings?

Have the rods been resized?
 
theres about 5k on these bearings i had my bottom end rebuilt because spun #4 rod bearing last summer. the machine shop rebuilt it with stock rebuilt parts besides the .20 over pistons. i wish i knew what size these beraings are beacuse i dont know if there standard or resized.

and yes correct no knock or noise whatsoever before i bent my valves

and once i started it up on the head with new valves, it started to knock, i was familar with this noise so i shut it off and started to investage and didnt wanna take any chances of damaging more. so about 5min of idle, wanted to make sure the lifters got some oil so i could rule out the lifters
 
Did that machine shop micro polish the crank? It looks like you had something go through the second picture, does your finger nail catch that groove? I don't have all the experience in the world but it does not look like you spun a bearing to me. You would have a lot more visual evidence i.e discoloration that blue, purple color and/or deep scoring on the bearing itself and probably the crank journal. If you pop the bearing off of the rod cap on the backside it should have the size of it on there imprinted.
Now when you say new head what are you referring to like yoi bough a new head or had that one re-worked. New valve guides, deck height did your check for valve to piston clearance before final assembly?
 
Did u eliminate balance shaft, or did machine shop? Was the balance shaft bearings turned to block off oil ports? Sounds like u just did it while u had timing belt off and not done when engine was rebuilt is why im asking.
 
Since there was no knock before the head change, and you pulled the pan and rods, put new bearings in and see how it works. Every one here agrees the bearings look decent, save for the long scratched one, look decent enough. How about a picture of the crankshaft? You could also prime your oil pump before you put the t belt back on.
 
Bearings look like normal wear. There is a groove on the one but it doesn't look spun. Were you able to get a vid of the sound? Based on the in for provided I do not suspect a spun rod bearing.
 
how does the motor idle . if its very rough you could of bent a rod causing it to come in contact with the block causing a knocking noise. cause those bearings don't look that bad .
 
5 mins of idle time is not near enough time for the HLAs to work into place and shut up.

Buckle the rods up, seal the oil pan up install oil/filter

Pull the VC and pull your HLAs, grab a small paper clip and bleed down your HLAs put it all back together..

Fire up, check for leaks and go for a drive.

On some high milage HLAs reports have said up to an hour/50 or so miles to get them quite

To see what size bearings you have, pop the bearing out the rod cap, most brands have the size stamped on the steel side of the bearing
 
I reused another head i had laying around whixh was in good condition from another running engine, I'm aware that they aren't spun but I wasent sure if they looked bad enough to have a knock, my crank journals look good to me, and I did the head myself, bled the lifters ( I have 3g lifters by the way ), they were clacking on first start up then they got quiet, but this noise is the same noise I had before I spun my bearing, I was driving on a rod knock for 6months daily due to having no oil because my oil cooler seal popped and caused oil starvation to rod 4. And its the same noise. I dont wanna risk making it worse if i drive it, ill let it idle a bit longer. I removed the front shaft at the rebuild and i just took out my rear one yesterday ,The engine runs smooth and pulls about 17in of vacuum, compression all above 150psi, I'll put the t belt back on and make a video for you guys. Hopefully tomorrow , if no luck I guess I'll put new bearings in, and I'll recheck my lifters , thanks again
 
Did you block off the oil port for the balance shaft bearing when u pulled out balance shaft? If you did not, you will have insufficient oil pressure.
 
Just try to push and pull on the rod once u torqued it down .and like mentioned before did u eliminate the bs properly by blocking off the oil feed.
 
yes of course, i flipped both front balance shaft bearings, and ported my oil filter housing relief valve. and rod caps had no play, just side to side. ill be putting it back together by Wednesday ive been too busy to work on it
 
hey guys heres the video , sorry ive been busy at work, thanks for the help of your posts , let me know what you think thanks

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With my car made same exact noise. I did compression test because it was making no power. dry was in the 90's-110's wet was 180's. I pulled the block and it had spun a rod bearing. I hope that's not the case for you I'm just telling you mine sounded identical. The ticking increased with throttle and you could drive it very slow. It started every time though and was very smooth idle but no power. Oh and I was told lifters as well I bought 3g's bled them and installed and no go
 
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