[RESOLVED] BW s256 boost issues!

[T9S1i]

sounds great!!!

Good luck friday and dont forget us here on the forums!! We want pics, video, dyno plots everything!!! haha

 

[dsmmatt28]

Yeah man Im going to post up every thing.

 

[We're on Boost]

I'm going to the track Friday and to the dyno Sat. So I will be posting up some numbers if I don't break anything at the track.

 

[keltalon]

OK i fixed my sputter problem. Had to gap the plugs to .018. I was running NGK bpr7es. I'm at 30psi right now 12.5 afr no knock Idcs are at 72% 24* timing straight e85. Let me tell you guys It pulls so F### hard. I think I'm done tuning for now. I'm going to the track Friday and to the dyno Sat. So I will be posting up some numbers if I don't break anything at the track.

cant wait

 

[eclipseGSTud]

Sorry to revive an old thread, but any updates on the dyno tuning results for the s258?

 

[keltalon]

Sorry to revive an old thread, but any updates on the dyno tuning results for the s258?

Well I am still around I have just recently upgraded a few things on my setup. I am running straight e85 I upgraded the injector from 880cc to 1200cc. I upgraded my from mount intercooler to larger one so i will be ready for dyno in a couple weeks here is my latest log with old setup and boost set @25psi

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/att...2276637-nice-e85-pull-full-e85-tune-26psi.dat

 

[We're on Boost]

Well I am still around I have just recently upgraded a few things on my setup.

Hey! How's your head gasket been doing?

 

[keltalon]

Hey! How's your head gasket been doing?

The o-ring block took care of the coolant pushing problem The reason I have not been around is because I was dealing with another issue "TIME" I just couldn't seem to find any to mess around with the car. Now that i have a little I am trying to see what i can actually get out of this baby horsepower wise. the bigger intercooler and bigger injectors will be here monday will be getting them put on next weekend and at the same time the car will be dynoed again with full tank e85.

 

[We're on Boost]

The o-ring block took care of the coolant pushing problem

Super!
I want to be sure I have it right though. Is it the block or the head that has the groove in it for the o-ring? And who did the machine work to make the groove?

 

[keltalon]

Super!
I want to be sure I have it right though. Is it the block or the head that has the groove in it for the o-ring? And who did the machine work to make the groove?

I had the block o-ringed. A local machine shop here in Atlanta did the work. I spoke with John Sheperd and inquired that since they sold mitsu mls head gasket with their o-ring racing head package, how much they let the ring stick past the deck surface of the head and he said about 5 thousand. So when i took my block to machine shop I told them to let the ring stick past deck surface 5 thousand. I put the engine back together with a mitu mls and a set of L19 studs I have run as much as 35psi for very brief pull to make sure no coolant would be pushed! None what-so-ever! Oh by the way They used a steel piano wire not copper!

 

[We're on Boost]

Was the wire an interference fit into the machined groove? Like did you have to tap the wire into the groove, or was it a loose fit into the groove?
The wire, I imagine it is a straight piece of wire that you put in there, it's not actually a ring? So when you lay that piece of wire into the groove you have to make little adjustments to the length of the wire so the ends meet?

 

[keltalon]

Was the wire an interference fit into the machined groove? Like did you have to tap the wire into the groove, or was it a loose fit into the groove?
The wire, I imagine it is a straight piece of wire that you put in there, it's not actually a ring? So when you lay that piece of wire into the groove you have to make little adjustments to the length of the wire so the ends meet?

Don't know. The machine shop installed it!

 

[dsmmatt28]

Good your still around. Im going through some changes as well.

 

[keltalon]

Good your still around. Im going through some changes as well.

Let us in

 

[dsmmatt28]

New FMIC, JMF Race intake, Dyna Tec Arc 2, swaping cams from bc272 to FP2s, building my tranny 96double syncro 2nd gear/ 92- 3/4 gear with new hub and slider new syncros going into 94 tranny. I know this turbo is capable of 600 and Im determined to get as close as I can.

 

[keltalon]

New FMIC, JMF Race intake, Dyna Tec Arc 2, swaping cams from bc272 to FP2s, building my tranny 96double syncro 2nd gear/ 92- 3/4 gear with new hub and slider new syncros going into 94 tranny. I know this turbo is capable of 600 and Im determined to get as close as I can.

Well looks like you might get close. I am still trying to break 450

 

[slowgsr]

I'm running the s258 0.70a/r t3. Pump gas (no e85 ). At 32psi stock motors with arps and mitsu mls. Push no coolant, and trap 129mph but my timing is at 12deg peak geeze wish I had e85 however I'm sure it could take more timing with the meth. Ran an 11.1 so far, going to run some 100 octane leaded fuel with the meth and a few more psi and more timing get this thing well into 10s on the stock motor before I drop in the built motor with the t4 s366 and spray.. Still going to run mitsu mls hg with copper spray standard arps at 105ft/lbs and shoot for 750awhp and some mid 9s. I don't believe you need to oring the block or use L19s for this.

Guys make 700+ without oringing the block right? And same with using L19s? Machine work on my block was done with standard arps with the torque plate so I'm worried if when I put the head on that if I use L19s it might throw it out of wack? Prob nothing if I use same torque since most guys don't build motors with torque plates anyways..

 

[dsmmatt28]

Well looks like you might get close. I am still trying to break 450

hahah yeah already did that that on a mustang dyno.

 

[keltalon]

hahah yeah already did that that on a mustang dyno.

I know! Can't seem to figure out what my problem is? I just upgraded my intercooler and my injectors maybe with e85 I can get close to what you put downLol

 

[dsmmatt28]

E85 is amazing stuff. 30psi 22* of timing no knock. I keep blowing out spark past 30psi spark plugs gaped .17 already. So a igintion system is on the way and the JMF should help out along with the FP2 cams. The stock intake mani is choking the upper RPM. The old intercooler was getting heat soaked and couldnt keep up. I had to cut the shit out of the support just to keep it short route for the new FMIC. The design of the endtanks was not very good on the old core either. Accoring to Corky Bell. Author of Maximum Boost. IF you havent read that book buy it and read it. Its a great turbocharging book. Here is link for the book just in case. Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing and Installing Turbocharging Systems Its probaly one of the best turbocharging books that Ive read. My clutch was sliping as well. I ordered a 6puck unprung disk and if that doesnt help Im going to have to fork out the cash for a twin disk or keep the boost down. Which is no fun.

 

[keltalon]

E85 is amazing stuff. 30psi 22* of timing no knock. I keep blowing out spark past 30psi spark plugs gaped .17 already. So a igintion system is on the way and the JMF should help out along with the FP2 cams. The stock intake mani is choking the upper RPM. The old intercooler was getting heat soaked and couldnt keep up. I had to cut the shit out of the support just to keep it short route for the new FMIC. The design of the endtanks was not very good on the old core either. Accoring to Corky Bell. Author of Maximum Boost. IF you havent read that book buy it and read it. Its a great turbocharging book. Here is link for the book just in case. Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing and Installing Turbocharging Systems Its probaly one of the best turbocharging books that Ive read. My clutch was sliping as well. I ordered a 6puck unprung disk and if that doesnt help Im going to have to fork out the cash for a twin disk or keep the boost down. Which is no fun.

Cool! I would caution against the unspung disk I ran one in the past and ruined my tranny because there is no way to , without the springs, to damper the torsonal vibration created on compression stroke

 

[dsmmatt28]

hmmm Well your FWD correct? This is straight from Jacks Transmissions web site.

DSM Clutch Selection

Choosing a clutch for your modified DSM can be tricky work. Some of the clutches and flywheels out there can do significant transmission damage and have a terrible track record of reliability concerns.

You should choose your clutch and flywheel based on your target power level. Stronger clutches cost more and/or create drivability concerns, so you should choose the lowest level clutch that will work at your power level:

* Up to 275HP AWD or up to 300HP FWD: OEM factory clutch from Mitsubishi (the dealer). Cheap autoparts store or ebay clutch is NOT recommended.
* Up to 300HP AWD or up to 350HP FWD: ACT 2100 with street disk and XACT flywheel. Good enough for low 13 second passes at the drag strip.
* Up to 450HP AWD or FWD: ACT 2600 with street disk and XACT flywheel. Good enough for 11 second passes at the drag strip.
* Up to 500HP AWD or FWD: ACT 2600 with 4-puck solid hub disk and XACT flywheel. Good enough for 10 second passes at the drag strip.
* Over 500HP AWD or FWD: It is highly recommended to go with a 7.25" twin disk clutch from PTT or QM. An ACT 2900 with a 4-puck can go as high as 600HP, but it is so hard to push the clutch pedal in at that point and they drag so badly at high RPM that it's just stupid to run it. The PTT and QM units will hold all the power you want and shift at any RPM.

Please note the following:

1. With all of these clutches it is highly recommended to use the factory throw out bearing from Mitsubishi.
2. If you use a 4 or 6-puck disk DO NOT use the sprung units! The 4 or 6-puck units are too aggressive for the sprung hubs and the hubs break often at the rivets.
3. The more aggressive the disk and hub springs, and lighter the flywheel the more torsional whip/engine harmonics will resonate through the drive train. IOW, if you hear a womp-womp-womp noise through the driveshaft at moderate load while driving, it is the noise resonating through the shaft as there is no longer any mass at the flywheel or absorption at the disk to take it away. This is normal when modifying the clutch in an AWD car and just another noise to deal with.
4. When using a heavier clutch you absolutely have to adjust the clutch pedal assembly for more throw and be sure the clutch hydraulic system is in excellent condition. You will also need to perform this test to be sure you don't have a dragging clutch and damage your tranny:
1. Have the car running with the e-brake off so it can roll.
2. Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
3. Turn off your launch limiter in DSM link if equipped so the engine can hit 7K RPM.
4. Put the car into 1st gear.
5. Rev the engine up until you feel the car start to move forward. If the car moves forward below 7200RPM, your clutch is dragging.
5. The more aggressive the clutch, the shorter the life expectancy. On average, we see about 1 year (10k miles) of street and strip use out of a street disk ACT 2600 clutch.
6. When replacing clutch master or slave cylinders you absolutely have to use OEM factory units from Mits (the dealer). DO NOT buy OEM 'replacements' from ebay or the autoparts stores. They are junk and will ruin your tranny!
7. If a 1G DSM is having a heavier clutch assembly installed, the clutch pedal z-bar needs to be inspected for wear. One way to check is to pull up on the pedal. If it moves up by hand it is bad and needs to be replaced or the clutch will always drag and damage the tranny. DO NOT weld the pedal assembly! This doesn't work! Replace the parts with new ones from the dealer. Come on, give us a break, they are cheap and it's not worth having a shortened throw due to a hack-job welded clutch pedal assembly because spending $100 to do it right is too much. The headaches of not replacing the parts and having to do a tranny rebuild and re-do the clutch pedal assembly all over again will make you wish you didn't cheap out on that $100.

 

[keltalon]

hmmm Well your FWD correct? This is straight from Jacks Transmissions web site.

DSM Clutch Selection

Choosing a clutch for your modified DSM can be tricky work. Some of the clutches and flywheels out there can do significant transmission damage and have a terrible track record of reliability concerns.

You should choose your clutch and flywheel based on your target power level. Stronger clutches cost more and/or create drivability concerns, so you should choose the lowest level clutch that will work at your power level:

* Up to 275HP AWD or up to 300HP FWD: OEM factory clutch from Mitsubishi (the dealer). Cheap autoparts store or ebay clutch is NOT recommended.
* Up to 300HP AWD or up to 350HP FWD: ACT 2100 with street disk and XACT flywheel. Good enough for low 13 second passes at the drag strip.
* Up to 450HP AWD or FWD: ACT 2600 with street disk and XACT flywheel. Good enough for 11 second passes at the drag strip.
* Up to 500HP AWD or FWD: ACT 2600 with 4-puck solid hub disk and XACT flywheel. Good enough for 10 second passes at the drag strip.
* Over 500HP AWD or FWD: It is highly recommended to go with a 7.25” twin disk clutch from PTT or QM. An ACT 2900 with a 4-puck can go as high as 600HP, but it is so hard to push the clutch pedal in at that point and they drag so badly at high RPM that it’s just stupid to run it. The PTT and QM units will hold all the power you want and shift at any RPM.

Please note the following:

1. With all of these clutches it is highly recommended to use the factory throw out bearing from Mitsubishi.
2. If you use a 4 or 6-puck disk DO NOT use the sprung units! The 4 or 6-puck units are too aggressive for the sprung hubs and the hubs break often at the rivets.
3. The more aggressive the disk and hub springs, and lighter the flywheel the more torsional whip/engine harmonics will resonate through the drive train. IOW, if you hear a womp-womp-womp noise through the driveshaft at moderate load while driving, it is the noise resonating through the shaft as there is no longer any mass at the flywheel or absorption at the disk to take it away. This is normal when modifying the clutch in an AWD car and just another noise to deal with.
4. When using a heavier clutch you absolutely have to adjust the clutch pedal assembly for more throw and be sure the clutch hydraulic system is in excellent condition. You will also need to perform this test to be sure you don’t have a dragging clutch and damage your tranny:
1. Have the car running with the e-brake off so it can roll.
2. Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
3. Turn off your launch limiter in DSM link if equipped so the engine can hit 7K RPM.
4. Put the car into 1st gear.
5. Rev the engine up until you feel the car start to move forward. If the car moves forward below 7200RPM, your clutch is dragging.
5. The more aggressive the clutch, the shorter the life expectancy. On average, we see about 1 year (10k miles) of street and strip use out of a street disk ACT 2600 clutch.
6. When replacing clutch master or slave cylinders you absolutely have to use OEM factory units from Mits (the dealer). DO NOT buy OEM ‘replacements’ from ebay or the autoparts stores. They are junk and will ruin your tranny!
7. If a 1G DSM is having a heavier clutch assembly installed, the clutch pedal z-bar needs to be inspected for wear. One way to check is to pull up on the pedal. If it moves up by hand it is bad and needs to be replaced or the clutch will always drag and damage the tranny. DO NOT weld the pedal assembly! This doesn’t work! Replace the parts with new ones from the dealer. Come on, give us a break, they are cheap and it’s not worth having a shortened throw due to a hack-job welded clutch pedal assembly because spending $100 to do it right is too much. The headaches of not replacing the parts and having to do a tranny rebuild and re-do the clutch pedal assembly all over again will make you wish you didn’t cheap out on that $100.

I understand what he is saying and have at my power levels broken the rivets out of a few cluthces myself. I did notice that the 2 clutchnet unit that broke as well as the slowboy unit had a very thin backplate which would expain why they snapped apart. so I researched and came across a competition clutch stage 3 and knotice that the backplate was very thick compared to the other clutches and it had encased springs. the competition disk is a 6 puck disc with there 2900lbs pressure plate which has a nice feel. so far this clutch is the only one that has stood the test of time and much abuse.

 

[dsmmatt28]

Old dyno graph. This was on the dsm turbine housing with BC272s straight e85 stock intake manifold.. Now Im on the T3 hotside, Jmf,FP2s, so i should get close to 600hp same motor!! This motor has been a blessing it has held up strong with no issues and I have beat the piss out of it.

 

[keltalon]

Old dyno graph. This was on the dsm turbine housing with BC272s straight e85 stock intake manifold.. Now Im on the T3 hotside, Jmf,FP2s, so i should get close to 600hp same motor!! This motor has been a blessing it has held up strong with no issues and I have beat the piss out of it.

Very nice! Must be the tuning! with the added upgrades your car is going to be a monster I will be hitting the dyno next week with my upgrades I am looking for about 450 with the 264 cams. Are you interested in selling you old bc 272?